Start with ph?

[006]

So, I'm new to taking care of my pool and decided it would be best to ask experienced folks how to go about it rather than wasting money trying to figure it out. Any input is appreciated. Details below.
21,000 gallon IG, plaster pool/spa with cartridge filters. I'm using a Taylor k-2006 test kit.
FC .2
CC 22
PH 6.5
TA 30
CH 800
CYA 0
The pool had been very green for about 6 months. I've attempted to shock with chlorine bleach and "guess strips" and cleaned the cartridges every few weeks. The water is now cloudy only in the deep end but still a little green.
Where should I begin? Bleach, soda ash, something else?

Thank you.

 

[pabeader]

Welcome!!

You are almost there all you have to do is read and follow this Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain and you will be clean and clear!!

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After you read it a few times, feel free to ask any and all questions you may have.

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You'll want to get some CYA (stabilizer) in there right away. You want at least 30 ppm. Then you'll want to stock up on bleach or whatever liquid chlorine you would like. Look for the freshest stuff you can get.

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Congratulations on having a good test kit.

 

[jeffchap]

It sounds like you've already done some reading and have a basic understanding of the TFP method. Now use pool math to calculate how much borax to add to bring your pH up to the 7.2-7.6 range.

Then add enough stabilizer to bring your CYA up to 30 ppm. It won't register for a few days, so just assume it's in there.

Based upon a CYA of 30, calculate the necessary amount of bleach to bring your FC to SLAM level of 12 ppm and keep it there until you can pass the overnight chlorine loss test (OCLT) of less than 1 ppm of FC loss overnight, CC measures .5 ppm or less, and the water is completely clear. Until the water is clear, it's not necessary to do the overnight test - you aren't there yet.

While SLAMming, it is critical to keep your FC at 12 ppm or above. Test as frequently as possible and add bleach as needed. It won't hurt to take FC up to 15 ppm or so, but letting it drop below 12 will only extend the process.

 

[triptyx]

Can you recheck your FC/CC numbers? They don't look right to me.

 

[006]

Corrected FC and CC numbers:
FC .2
CC 2.2

Thank you

 

[MarianParoo]

Okay. Use PoolMath (here is a tutorial on how to use it: Pool School - PoolMath ) to calculate how to raise your pH up to 7.2. Do that first and report back. If you have a jug of bleach, you can throw that in too.

In the future, know that you can use a 10ml water sample to test FC/CC to save on reagents. The directions are on the inner lid of your testkit.

 

[duraleigh]

Welcome to the forum.

Based on your numbers, you have a ton of work to do. But before we get in to balancing your pool, I think you may have some testing errors. CH, FC and CC are Wa-a-a-ay out of whack.

Do you feel you have a good grasp of the test methods?

Okay, I see you have corrected the FC......how about your CH? If that number is accurate, I am going to suggest you drain some water. Post back.

 

[JamesW]

Can you give a little bit of history and general information about the pool?

Is this well water?
What is the fill water chemistry.
What has been used for chlorine?
When was the pool filled?
Do you think that there is iron in the water?

 

[006]

The CH number is from a HTH multi purpose 6 way test strip. I had my local pool store test my water today and they said 500.
As far as history on the pool water; it's not well water but we do hve very hard water here. I'm not sure what the fill water chemistry is. I've been using Great Value concentrated Bleach for chlorine recently, before that, 3" chlorine tabs. I ran a couple of bottles of algaecide through it in the past couple of months but have since cleaned the cartridges a few times. I last filled the pool around 4 years ago. I do not show any rust marks if that would indicate iron?

Update: I bought 166oz borax, 134oz of stabilizer and 6 bottles of bleach to start stocking up.

Thank you

 

[kimkats]

I'm using a Taylor k-2006 test kit.

The CH number is from a HTH multi purpose 6 way test strip. I had my local pool store test my water today and they said 500.

The Taylor kit has the CH test in it. Please use that instead of guess strips or the pool store. We have found more harm than good comes from using the strips and pool store.

It is very interesting to me that you have a CYA of 0 when you have been using pucks until recently. What kind were you using. I bet they may have added the CH if those numbers are even close to real values. Please post what kind of pucks you have been using.

Please test your fill water so we know what you are dealing with. Don't bother testing for CYA as that has to be added.

We will get your pool looking like a jewel in no time with your work!

Kim

 

[JamesW]

The zero CYA and high CC levels might be from bacteria eating the CYA and converting it to ammonia.

High CC could also be from using Jack's #2 stain remover or monopersulfate or testing error. High CC like that is unlikely to be from people unless this is a high use indoor pool.

Did the algaecide contain copper?

Can you post pictures of the pool?

Can you pull out the filter cartridges and post pictures of them before clesning?

 

[006]

I'm not sure how I missed the CH test with the kit the first time but I did it and it came out to 950. The water turned more of a deep purple than blue. The fill water looks like this:
FC 0
CC .5
Ph 8
Alkalinity 130ppm
CH 250
I've taken pictures of the pool, current cartridge state(last cleaned 11/21) and the chlorine tabs that were used before. Just working on how to post them. I forgot to mention that I also have a Chlorinator that has a few pieces of chlorine tabs at the bottom of it. They must have been in there for months now.
The algaecide was HTH brand, the msds sheets don't mention copper that I can see.
Thanks

 

[kimkats]

Are you under any water restrictions? That will tell me which way to have you go.

Kim

 

[006]

I just spoke to the water company and I am eligible for a pool fill. It's been 5 years.

 

[JamesW]

Doesn't look like copper. Maybe iron. I would proceed with the Slam.

 

[duraleigh]

I agree there is no indication of copper but I would certainly drain off the VERY high CH content.

Draining 2/3 of the pool and then start the SLAM seems to make sense to me.

006, can you post test results using only the K-2006?

 

[kimkats]

I am with Dave. I would drain 2/3 of the pool and start over due to the high CH.

While the pool is draining and refill I have some reading for you to do:

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

This will help you learn the hows and whys of TFP. It is the corner stone of what we do here.

I am also going to give you another link that will show you what we use in our pools that works great AND is much cheaper than what the Pool $tore sells!

Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

When you get done draining and refilling let us know. We will go from there.

Kim