Can I replace an Aqua Logic board with a Pro Logic board? Please help!

[mas985]

Well I've asked Goldline (Hayward) before because I was looking at an upgrade and 3.0 is the start of Pro-Logic but call and ask for yourself. The first version of the Pro-Logic looked identical to the Aqua-Logic board.

 

[JamesW]

Hayward is watching this thread. They can confirm which is correct.

In any case, I think that the board pictured is glx-pcb-main, which goes to aqualogic.

 

[mas985]

But the OP already said they have the Pro-Logic features. You wouldn't get that with an Aqua-Logic.

 

[JamesW]

Some features overlap. Maybe Hayward can clarify.

 

[Westovers]

That's glx-pcb-main. It has the bigger transformer with the yellow wrapping. The glx-pcb-pro has the smaller transformer with the white wrapping.

Also, I think that aqualogic does go to at least revision 3.0.

Based on the serial number of the box and the circuit board, Hayward should be able to tell you if the board is original to the box or if it has been replaced.

If you have a prologic box and an aqualogic board, either the board has been replaced or maybe Hayward mislabeled the box.

JamesW, you are correct. In light of the urgency of the holiday weekend, I had already gone ahead and ordered a new GLX-PCB-MAIN after posting, and the new one matches my old one (in photo) exactly. It's a little less expensive, and I didn't have to guess on the orange wires, so I went ahead and just installed it. I'm sending the GLX-PCB-PRO board back.

THANK YOU to you, and to all others who replied! I love TFP.

 

[JamesW]

What was the problem with the old board? Often, it's a bad solder joint that can be resoldered from the back. Usually, it's a leg of one of the relays that comes unsoldered. If you look at the back of the old board, you might be able to see a burnt spot around a relay leg.

In any case, it's odd that you have a ProLogic box and an AquaLogic board. Maybe the very first ProLogic was just an AquaLogic with a name change?

 

[Westovers]

What was the problem with the old board? Often, it's a bad solder joint that can be resoldered from the back. Usually, it's a leg of one of the relays that comes unsoldered. If you look at the back of the old board, you might be able to see a burnt spot around a relay leg.

In any case, it's odd that you have a ProLogic box and an AquaLogic board. Maybe the very first ProLogic was just an AquaLogic with a name change?

The salt cell stopped working. Hayward Tech had me tell him the readings, and several things were off, amps were way high. He said the board would have to be replaced. I noticed a burn mark on the back behind the top right corner of the small black "Omron" box in the top right of the board. (Sorry--I don't know how better to describe the location...) Do you think that could be repaired?

Great question--it is odd! But I've got the new GLX-PCB-MAIN board installed and working now, and everything seems fully functional.

 

[JamesW]

Possibly repairable. Does it look like there is a metal post sticking through the board with gaps in the solder? Maybe the k1 relay. That's a common failure point.

If yes, that can often be repaired by resoldering the post to the board.

Does your box serial number start with 3L08 or 3L09?

I think that AquaLogic was discontinued in 2008 and replaced by ProLogic in the same year.

Aqualogic Salt Water Chlorine Converter - No Cell Power Fix - YouTube

No Cell Power Switch Replacement - YouTube

Note that repairing the board might void the warranty on the entire system and might cause other issues if done incorrectly.

 

[mas985]

I would be curious as to what version of the AquaLogic board you received and what software features are missing from your old board. But I agree with James that your old board should be repairable. Most are easily repaired with a little solder.

 

[Westovers]

Possibly repairable. Does it look like there is a metal post sticking through the board with gaps in the solder? Maybe the k1 relay. That's a common failure point.

If yes, that can often be repaired by resoldering the post to the board.

Does your box serial number start with 3L08 or 3L09?

I think that AquaLogic was discontinued in 2008 and replaced by ProLogic in the same year.

Aqualogic Salt Water Chlorine Converter - No Cell Power Fix - YouTube

No Cell Power Switch Replacement - YouTube

Note that repairing the board might void the warranty on the entire system and might cause other issues if done incorrectly.

Wow. I wish I would have asked more questions on this forum before buying a new board, as HAYWARD told me I would need to do... (Where did that Hayward Pool rep disappear here to here?) The videos you linked me to show the exact same spot on my board:



Looks like I could have bought that relay switch for a very small fraction of the price of what I spent on a new board... But alas, it is already installed.

Thank you again James! At least now I'll save my old board for a future repair/replace if I need it!

 

[mas985]

The relay does not always need to be replaced. Often times it is a cold solder joint or the trace is broken. So I would just try floating the solder.

 

[Hayward Pool]

I thought I had already replied to the post. The original post was for the Pro Logic and this board is good for all Pro Logic boards. The Aqua Logic has a different board.

 

[mas985]

The OP has a board that looks like an AquaLogic board but the rev number is 300 (3.0). So do you know if that board has AquaLogic or ProLogic firmware?

Your Goldline tech support told me some time ago that the first generation ProLogic used the AquaLogic board but the firmware is ProLogic. We just wanted confirmation the information given is true.

 

[brothe19]

Thank you to everyone in this post. I had the exact same issue as the OP, having a PL-PS4 with the GLX PCB MAIN instead of the GLX PCB PRO. My issue was no amps but had volts to the salt cell. I removed the board and re-soldered 2 burned out spots. Worked like a charm! Saved me lots of $$$.