It's not easy being green...

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H

Homestead

0
Bronze Supporter
Nov 4, 2016
17
Earlysville, VA
Hi TFP community,
1st time pool owner here having issues with the big green swamp. I just discovered your site 3 weeks ago after dealing with my local pool store and buying $700 in Pool Life chemicals. From May-June there was no green, August the water was grey cloudy. I flocked the pool and it helped but went back to grey cloud 3 weeks afterwards. September started the green.

One thing I noticed after getting a the K-2006 is that my CYA was 100+. I drained 75% of pool and my CYA is down to 33.

Before SLAM:
FC .5
CC 0
PH 7.2
TA 80
CH 110
CYA 33

1st reading after 6 bottles - 8.25% Clorox, 121oz
FC 18
CC .5
PH 7.8
TA 100
CH 110
CYA 33

2nd / 3rd / 4th / 5th
FC 16.5 / 16.5 / 16.5
CC .5 / 0 / .5 / .5
PH 7.8 / 8.0 / 7.8 / 7.6
TA 100 / 100 / 100 / 100
CH 110
CYA 33

From what I have been reading, shouldn't the algae be consuming the FC?

I backwashed and the pump started off at 20 PSI. I added 1 cup of DE which caused the PSI to go to 24-25. I backwashed again and the PSI went back to 18. Pump issues?

Thank you for everyone's guidance.
 
Homestead said:
Hi TFP community,
1st time pool owner here having issues with the big green swamp. I just discovered your site 3 weeks ago after dealing with my local pool store and buying $700 in Pool Life chemicals. From May-June there was no green, August the water was grey cloudy. I flocked the pool and it helped but went back to grey cloud 3 weeks afterwards. September started the green.

One thing I noticed after getting a the K-2006 is that my CYA was 100+. I drained 75% of pool and my CYA is down to 33.

Before SLAM:
FC .5
CC 0
PH 7.2
TA 80
CH 110
CYA 33

1st reading after 6 bottles - 8.25% Clorox, 121oz
FC 18
CC .5
PH 7.8
TA 100
CH 110
CYA 33

2nd / 3rd / 4th / 5th
FC 16.5 / 16.5 / 16.5
CC .5 / 0 / .5 / .5
PH 7.8 / 8.0 / 7.8 / 7.6
TA 100 / 100 / 100 / 100
CH 110
CYA 33

From what I have been reading, shouldn't the algae be consuming the FC?

I backwashed and the pump started off at 20 PSI. I added 1 cup of DE which caused the PSI to go to 24-25. I backwashed again and the PSI went back to 18. Pump issues?

Thank you for everyone's guidance.
Click to expand...
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

First, there is no 33 CYA, round up to 40. CYA is always measured in full 10 point increments.

Second, a photo would help, maybe two. One wide shot for the pool and a second looking down into the water over the steps or a ladder so we can see clarity.

While we are talkng about "green", is it a cloudy yucky green, or a bright iridescent green?

Once you start a SLAM you only test FC and CC. Stop all the other tests, you are just wasting reagents.

What is the time frame between tests "2nd / 3rd / 4th / 5th"

What is the source for your pool water? City/public water supply? Well? Trucked in?


I backwashed and the pump started off at 20 PSI. I added 1 cup of DE which caused the PSI to go to 24-25. I backwashed again and the PSI went back to 18. Pump issues?
Click to expand...
Nope, that is exactly how it works. When using DE on a sand filter you add a little bit at a time until you see a 1PSI rise in pressure. For now, no more DE.
 
Thank you for everyone's feedback.

11/5/16
1st 8:15am
2nd 9:00am
3rd 11:00am
4th 1:20pm
5th 5:40pm

11/5/16
8:40am FC 15, CC 0

In regards to color, its a cloudy darker green. You can't seen the bottom in the shallow 3' area. I've attached some pictures to help.
Thank you everyone.
Brian.

IMG_6750 (1).jpgIMG_6752 (1).jpgIMG_6753 (1).jpg
 

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Well, looking at those photos, it's definitely algae.

Are you following the SLAM Process directions exactly? The most important with the water that color is brushing at least once a day and keeping the pump running 24/7.

I'm not sure why you are getting 16.5 every time with your FC test, but suspect a testing error of some sort.

When conducting the chlorine test you should get your water sample from below the surface as far as you can reach down, and I prefer using the same spot in the pool all the time. I get mine next to a skimmer so I see the results of well circulated water.

Rinse and fill sample tube to 10ml mark.

Use tiny blue scoop (hold the flat end) to put one heaping scoop R-0870 powder into sample, swirl to mix. (OK if not all dissolves.) Sample should turn pink. If it "flashes" pink then the pink disappears, add more R-0870. If there's never a hint of pink at all, skip step 3; FC=0.

Add R-0871 one drop at a time (slowly 1-2 sec between drops), swirling the sample continuously, . Stop when sample turns colorless. Multiply #drops by 0.5 to get FC. (If it turns pink again after a few seconds, don't worry about it.)

Add 5 drops R-0003, swirl to mix. If it remains colorless, CC=0. If it turns pink, again add drops of R-0871 (swirling continuously) until it turns colorless. Multiply drops by 0.5 to get CC.

The hardest part of any of these tests is the continuous swirling while adding drops. This is why most of us use a Speed Stir

SpeedStir Magnetic Stirrer
 
To answer previous question: What is the source for your pool water? City/public water supply? Well? Trucked in? --- Well Water.

I have been brushing 1x per day. I brushed yesterday afternoon and at 9am today.
Pump is running continuously since I started SLAM yesterday 8am.

Water sample has been consistent next to latter (6' from skimmer) and about 12" but I'll go deeper and next to the skimmer.

I've been following the steps you listed except in K-2006 kit instructions say 2 scoops of power.
I was swirling but will go slower and swirl more. I'll also order the speedstir.

How does cold impact the SLAM process? It's 40 degrees today and I would say water temp is 60 degrees.
Thank you.
 

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One potential issue could be that your sand filter may need a "deep cleaning". Sand filters can develope channels so the water doesn't actually get filtered. This will have no bearing on FC levels or effectiveness, but will prevent the water from clearing up.

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

As a side note - a suggestion for collecting pool samples so you don't have to stick you arm in the swamp:
  • Use a 3 foot long 1/2" pvc pipe to collect water samples.
  • Put your thumb over the end as you insert it into the pool.
  • Remove your thumb when the pipe is down about 2 feet. The pipe will fill with water from the submerged end.
  • Place your thumb back on the exposed end and withdrawal the pipe from the water.
  • Slowly release the water into your sample container so as to minimize bubbles.
  • Minimizing bubbles is mostly needed only if testing pH, and maybe TA. (And how big of an effect it has I have not checked,)
 
Great idea on the 3 foot pipe to collect the water sample. Makes a big difference and get a lot deeper. At 1:30pm, I tested the CYA 50, FC 14.5 CC 0. Target FC for CYA of 50 is 20 FC so I added 2.4 gal bleach.

What would cause CUA to change without adding anything other than Borax for PH and Bleach?

Thank you!!!
 
Looks like some of the algae is mustard agae. Maintain full shock levels and it will break.

The yellow tint and dusty deposits are good indications of mustard algae.

Mustard tends to be slower to react to chlorine, but it will eventually be overcome at full shock levels.
 
Do you have a manual vacuum? If so, using it would help. If you can get out and test again tonight and add as needed, that would be great. High FC overnight really has an impact.

Btw, my kid graduated from Bridgewater College, just over the mtns from you. Love your area!
 
We just moved here 9 months ago and it's been great. Glad Bridgewater stayed open. Lots of passionate Alumni.

I do have a manual vacuum and will try it tomorrow.

10pm test - FC 19.5, CC 0
Added 2.5 gal to take FC to 24 overnight.
Thank you.
 

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