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Thread: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

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    Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    Yay for pool school! Before the pool water was cloudy, dirty and numbers extreme. My way would have taken the entire summer to correct, but reading the Pool School section I accomplished a lot in a week! Currently, my water appears to be balanced, clean and sparkling!

    Specifications:
    Viking Pool (ceramic fiberglass), 9000 gallon, equipped with a s.w.g.

    Water:
    FC - 4
    TC - 4
    pH - 7.2
    TA - 60
    CH - 160
    CYA - 60

    I see my numbers are normal, except CH. Maybe the CH is low because I mostly filled the pool with soft water from my house. What do you pool experts think?
    Viking Pool - Ceramic Fiberglass - Key West Sapphire Blue - 9,000 gallons
    Aqua Rite Goldline SWG
    Sta-Rite PXC150 Cartridge Filter
    Sta-Rite MPRA6F-148L 1.5 hp Pump

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    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
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    Re: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    What kind of pool do you have? Vinyl pools don't care about CH unless you have a heater. If you have a heater, follow the heater manufacturer's recommendation for CH.
    TFP Moderator
    20K Gallon 20X36 Vinyl Inground
    Hayward S244T Sand Filter with 1HP Whisperflo Pump. Liquidator C-201 and Solar Heat

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    Hi,

    It would be helpful to have all your pool and equipment info in your sig. Go to User Control Panel, upper left, select Profile, then edit Sig.

    Recommended level for CH for fiberglass w/SWG is 220-320.

    Here's a thread w/info that may be of interest: stain-keeps-coming-back-in-my-fiberglass-pool-t5446.html?hilit=cobalt%20stain%20fiberglass
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

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    Re: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    What does your SWG manufacturer recommend for CYA? 60 might be a tad low.
    --paulr
    BBB "Intermediate Swimmer"
    IG plaster pool 18.5K gal, Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter, 3/4 HP Hydramax II; Polaris 380, 3/4 HP booster
    AG spa 325 gal, probably Sundance of some kind
    Water testing instructions on one page

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    Re: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulR
    What does your SWG manufacturer recommend for CYA? 60 might be a tad low.
    --paulr
    Goldline manual says 60ppm minimum.
    Viking Pool - Ceramic Fiberglass - Key West Sapphire Blue - 9,000 gallons
    Aqua Rite Goldline SWG
    Sta-Rite PXC150 Cartridge Filter
    Sta-Rite MPRA6F-148L 1.5 hp Pump

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    Re: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnT
    What kind of pool do you have? Vinyl pools don't care about CH unless you have a heater. If you have a heater, follow the heater manufacturer's recommendation for CH.
    I did the saturation index and my pool water is actually corrosive. Increasing the calcium levels will help off set the corrosive environment.
    Viking Pool - Ceramic Fiberglass - Key West Sapphire Blue - 9,000 gallons
    Aqua Rite Goldline SWG
    Sta-Rite PXC150 Cartridge Filter
    Sta-Rite MPRA6F-148L 1.5 hp Pump

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    Would you mind adding "fiberglass" to your sig?

    Thanks!
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    If that's a cartridge filter the CYA is probably okay. If it's DE or sand then you'll lose some water backwashing and you might want to nudge up the CYA to keep it in range.
    --paulr
    BBB "Intermediate Swimmer"
    IG plaster pool 18.5K gal, Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter, 3/4 HP Hydramax II; Polaris 380, 3/4 HP booster
    AG spa 325 gal, probably Sundance of some kind
    Water testing instructions on one page

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    Guest

    Re: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    Bump your CYa up to 80 ppm (you will get better pH stability!
    water-balance-tips-for-a-swg-t3663.html
    Bring up your CH. It will help minimize staining that fiberglass pools are so prone to and also help eliminate cobalt spotting which happens as the gelcoat ages.

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    Guest

    Re: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Zeppelin_Heaven
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnT
    What kind of pool do you have? Vinyl pools don't care about CH unless you have a heater. If you have a heater, follow the heater manufacturer's recommendation for CH.
    I did the saturation index and my pool water is actually corrosive. Increasing the calcium levels will help off set the corrosive environment.
    The CSI is actually one applicable to plaster surfaces. It does not predict corrosion on metal surfacts. However low calcium can cause other problems with fiberglass pools such as cobalt spotting and higher incidence of staining.

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    Re: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    Okay so raise the CYA to 80, which is fine because I have leftover stabilizer from my last application.

    Now I need to buy calcium chloride...

    All my other numbers good?
    Viking Pool - Ceramic Fiberglass - Key West Sapphire Blue - 9,000 gallons
    Aqua Rite Goldline SWG
    Sta-Rite PXC150 Cartridge Filter
    Sta-Rite MPRA6F-148L 1.5 hp Pump

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    Yes, the other names are all reasonable. You are going to need to raise the TA just a little fairly soon, but I don't see any need to do that right away.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    Really? I was celebrating when I finally got my CYA down to 60ppm. Last year it was over 150 at one time.



    Quote Originally Posted by waterbear
    Quote Originally Posted by Zeppelin_Heaven
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnT
    What kind of pool do you have? Vinyl pools don't care about CH unless you have a heater. If you have a heater, follow the heater manufacturer's recommendation for CH.
    I did the saturation index and my pool water is actually corrosive. Increasing the calcium levels will help off set the corrosive environment.
    The CSI is actually one applicable to plaster surfaces. It does not predict corrosion on metal surfacts. However low calcium can cause other problems with fiberglass pools such as cobalt spotting and higher incidence of staining.

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    Join Date
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    Re: Thank Goodness For Pool School! CH Question

    Quote Originally Posted by rbdeli
    Really? I was celebrating when I finally got my CYA down to 60ppm. Last year it was over 150 at one time.
    With a SWG you want to run with a higher CYA, helps the whole system run more efficiently. Because chlorine gets added automatically the level will tend to fluctuate less and so you can run it "closer to the line" than you really want to do with manual addition of chlorine.
    --paulr
    BBB "Intermediate Swimmer"
    IG plaster pool 18.5K gal, Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter, 3/4 HP Hydramax II; Polaris 380, 3/4 HP booster
    AG spa 325 gal, probably Sundance of some kind
    Water testing instructions on one page

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