A/G Pool Opening

[resch]

Hello! Just opened our pool yesterday. There was a lot of black silt streaked in the bottom. when we tried to vacuum it up, it came up pretty easily but... there is like a residue that isnt coming up under it. Hard to explain but it left the white bottom of our liner looking stained. If we scrubbed it, it came off but it is difficult. First, anyone know what it might be? We have had the pool 8 years and never had this issue. Second, my numbers last evening before any adds were:
FC 0
CC 0
TC 0
pH 7.6
TA 60
CH 70
CYA 0
Temp in pool 58
Temp out of pool 62

Added 1 gal 12% distributed around outside of pool and 1 Trichlor Puck to skimmer (didnt have enough 12% and CYA on hand-my bad-and it was getting too dark to stand waiting for it to dissolve). Pump running 24/7. Vacuumed last night manually. Turned on 'lil Shark vacuum this morning to auto run. Have not put stairs in yet.

This morning my numbers were:
FC 7.5
CC 0
TC 7.6
pH 7.8-ish (leaning higher?)
DNT TA or CH again
CYA 0
Temp in 55
Temp out 53

First... Is there anything I should do with the liner? I would assume if my cc's are 0 i do not have algae or am I wrong in that assumption? How should I handle the mess on the bottom & bottom edges of the pool?

What should my adds be at this point aside from the CYA?
Should I continue to keep at shock level?

Thank you for ANY help you can give me. I think in the past I have erred on the side of caution and over chlorinated. I would like to get away from that.
This site and you all are fabulous!!

 

[woodyp]

YES---------you CAN have algae with zero CC. Try rubbing a puck on those stains.

 

[Texas Splash]

Coupled with Woody's puck test above, you want to be careful about how much bleach to add when there's no CYA since the CYA not only protects chlorine from the sun, it protects the liner. I suspect you will need to perform a SLAM since you did appear to have some residual algae in the water. Those stains may be organic in nature (hence Woody's puck test), related to that algae. What I would also recommend is first lowering the pH to 7.2 with acid in preparation for the SLAM (link below). Once the pH is at 7.2, increase FC to 10 using the Poolmath Calculator for correct dosage. Do that before adding any stabilizer. Check in 10 minutes and test FC again. Do you still have close to 10 FC? If so, then add stabilizer for a target of 30 ppm and increase FC to 12 and perform your SLAM according to the SLAM page.

Now if you find that your FC was almost gone on that 10-min test, let us know, otherwise do everything on the SLAM page, pass all 3 SLAM criteria, and if the stains are still there after the SLAM we'll address them more specifically at that time.

 

[resch]

you all are fabulous!

What will happen if I rub the puck on the stain??

 

[Texas Splash]

If it's organic (algae related) it should lighten or go away.

 

[resch]

Coupled with Woody's puck test above, you want to be careful about how much bleach to add when there's no CYA since the CYA not only protects chlorine from the sun, it protects the liner. I suspect you will need to perform a SLAM since you did appear to have some residual algae in the water. Those stains may be organic in nature (hence Woody's puck test), related to that algae. What I would also recommend is first lowering the pH to 7.2 with acid in preparation for the SLAM (link below). Once the pH is at 7.2, increase FC to 10 using the Poolmath Calculator for correct dosage. Do that before adding any stabilizer. Check in 10 minutes and test FC again. Do you still have close to 10 FC? If so, then add stabilizer for a target of 30 ppm and increase FC to 12 and perform your SLAM according to the SLAM page.

Now if you find that your FC was almost gone on that 10-min test, let us know, otherwise do everything on the SLAM page, pass all 3 SLAM criteria, and if the stains are still there after the SLAM we'll address them more specifically at that time.

Is there anything different I should do since we added the CYA early this morning before I read this?
I should be moving towards a 25-30 CYA number with the amount we added. I have done no other additions. Just have one puck in the skimmer all day.

 

[resch]

Good Morning! I am a bit confused with my numbers. TFT100 Test Kit has all new solutions this season.


5/22/16 5/23/16 5/23/16 5/23/16 5/24/16
8:00pm 7:30am 8:15pm 9:30pm 7:00am
FC 0.0 7.5 4.5 18.5 18.5
CC 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.5
pH 7.6 7.8 7.2 7.2 7.5
TA 60.0 nt nt nt nt
CH 70.0 nt nt nt nt
CYA 0 0 assume 25 assume 30 assume 35 (Assume because I did test and it is going up, added CYA yesterday)
Pool 58 55 63 63 60 POOL WATER TEMP
Out 62 53 65 65 50 OUTDOOR TEMP

5/22/16 opened pool. a lot of sediment per my original post, cloudy water after vacuuming added 1 gal 12% + 1 trichlor puck to skimmer (because we had no more chlorine and pool store was out by time we got there). Back-washed a lot of yuck out from vacuuming.
5/23/16 early am: water already clearing for the most part. Added 3 cups CYA to raise to approx 25, auto vacuumed all day, pump running 24/7, left puck in skimmer.
5/23/16 evening: added 1 gal 12% to shock to 13 FC, left puck in skimmer. left pump on 24/7. recheck first thing in am. Clear water. Back-washed some yuck out.
5/24/16: this morning... clear water. pump running. OCLT no loss at all, per above chart.

There is still a weird film visible on the bottom of pool. I cannot get into the pool to rub-test with a puck, per water temps. The film is at the bottom. It is now gone everywhere the vacuum reaches. Planning on going out today to brush as much as possible. Water is clear. Pump is running 24/7.

Am I doing something wrong??

 

[Texas Splash]

You appear to be doing a good job. For now though, I suppose we should assume your CYA is 40 (35 rounded-up), so your SLAM FC would be 16. It would probably be best to maintain that 16 until you pass the 3 SLAM criteria. You mentioned you did an OCLT, but did you still have a puck/tablet in the pool? If so, that could be misleading. Next time you do an OCLT you'll want to remove any sources of chlorination to see how the water really reacts to FC loss (if any). I would definitely continue the scrubbing all around to break-up any algae still trying to make a home, and watch your filter for backwashes once psi increases by 25%. Other than that ... just be patient.

 

[Mr Bruce]

You should never, ever, ever leave a puck in the skimmer.

 

[resch]

You mentioned you did an OCLT, but did you still have a puck/tablet in the pool? If so, that could be misleading. Next time you do an OCLT you'll want to remove any sources of chlorination to see how the water really reacts to FC loss (if any).

Oh my gosh!!! Duh Me!
I don't typically use pucks since starting BBB in 2009 (usually only use them to cover when we are away for a few days).
I will test and watch it today to maintain shock then do another OCLT tonight.

We have a new solar blanket. I am assuming I should wait to "install" it until we know we do not have an algae problem continuing?? I have been waiting because I don't want to give anything a place to hide and then keep putting it back in via the blanket bubbles on the bottom. Am I correct in that thought?

Thanks so much. Have a great day!

- - - Updated - - -

You should never, ever, ever leave a puck in the skimmer.

I am assuming u mean for the OCLT???
Texas did address that above.
Was there another reason that I am missing?

- - - Updated - - -

You should never, ever, ever leave a puck in the skimmer.

I am assuming you are referring to the OCLT??
Texas addressed that above.
Am I missing something else??

 

[Mr Bruce]

They are highly acidic and can damage equipment.

 

[resch]

Good morning Texas and Woody!

Before dusk last night, I had the vacuum on for quite awhile and I brushed the wall/floor edges of all the film I could see that looked "clingy". It brushed off quite easily and I could see it waft up. The pool was clear before brushing and was not really "cloudy" but definitely not crystal clear after brushing. I have observed that there is nothing accumulated/stuck in the liner seams on the floor which we usually see with whatever sediment is in the bottom during the year.

I did another OCLT last night. (no puck this time lol)
Before returning it to shock level at 8pm my numbers were:
FC 10.0
CC 0.5
pH 7.4
CYA 40

I added 3 quarts 12% per PoolMath to raise back to 16 shock level.
At 9:30pm it was dark and my FC was 22, CC 0.5

This morning at 7:45am FC was 20.5, CC 0.5 (Didn't quite grab it before light but it was only light for about an hour and a half. The pool is in full sun, no trees/shade.)
CYA this morning was 40
pH 7.6

This morning there was a small amount of sediment but it is only a small amount like what we would normally see the next day after a good usage. Water looks clear this morning.

My shock level should be 16 for a 40 CYA. Mustard Shock 24.

Please tell me if my reasoning is correct on how to proceed today and correct me or add please.

1. test again in a few hours... when shock goes below 16, add 12% to shock level.
2. turn on vacuum and try to brush walls again. (Powerwashing stairs and all equipment with bleach/water mix today)
3. OCLT again tonight.
4. if all ok with OCLT in the am... allow to drop to regular level of 3-7 for a CYA of 40. Add stairs, cover with new solar blanket. ENJOY!!

Thank you for all your help!!! You are greatly appreciated.

 

[Texas Splash]

Your plan looks good. Definitely maintain the FC level today, and try to stay right at your FC level for the first portion of the OCLT tonight. Try not too over-shoot it if possible. I've seen some OCLTs fail because they went too high compared to their current CYA. Best of luck on your OCLT tonight! Have a great day.

 

[resch]

Texas,
I want to be sure I clarify... When you say get closer to the shock level, do you mean 16 for regular shock or 24 for mustard shock. I am assuming I understand you that higher than 16 may cause incorrect result.
Thanks! o

 

[resch]

Good Morning!
SUCCESS!!!!

OCLT is within SLAM criteria.
FC maintained all day yesterday in full sun with only one required chlorine addition all day.
8pm FC after dusk was 17.5
7am FC this am just as sun was rising 16.5
pH this am 7.6
CYA still solid at 40

Water is clear and no cc's
Stairs power-washed. Purchased a new stair mat so we do not "import" anything and ready to put on the new solar blanket.
THANK YOU SO VERY VERY MUCH!!!!
Our pool hasn't looked this good in a couple of years!!

Now... IMO, I wouldn't be a good BBB convert if I didn't want to continually look for improvement, would I?
Last year, I bought a bunch of 20 Mule, Muriatic Acid and Test Strips to finally add Borates. I have read the How To and it looks pretty straightforward.
Is this something that I now can start since I have the water balanced or should I wait?
Also, We have a few new families of birds with babies in our yard/woods who drink from the pool. Will the Borates cause them any problems at 30-50ppm?

Thanks again guys!! Y'all Rock

 

[Texas Splash]

Outstanding! I'll have to let someone else answer the borate question, but well-done!

 

[resch]

Thanks so much Texas!

 

[pooldv]

Nice work! Now is fine for borates. What is your TA? Is your PH stable? You want to get your TA low enough before adding borates. Usually 60-80.

 

[resch]

Nice work! Now is fine for borates. What is your TA? Is your PH stable? You want to get your TA low enough before adding borates. Usually 60-80.

Thank you for your response...

TA 60
CH 70
pH has been stable between 7.4-7.6
CYA 40
Pool Temp 69
Outside Temp mid-80's (going to be hot this weekend so we are trying to raise
pool temp with solar cover now)

 

[pooldv]

Sweet! Borates away!