New owners of a green pool

[triptyx]

I'll preface this by saying I'm no expert - I'll give you my take on it and perhaps a more experienced member will weigh in shortly:

While you are SLAMing your pool, you're not going to get a valid Ph reading - my understanding is that it will read high. So for now, you can likely ignore that test. Once you're done with your SLAM and return your pool to regular FC levels (at least below 10), test Ph again and adjust it then.

CH - You have a vinyl liner, so you're likely just fine there. No need to adjust it.

TA - closely related to Ph. Don't mess with it for now.

Personally - I'd focus on bleach and completing your SLAM for now. Once you're done SLAMing, you can retest and take any needed actions on your Ph and TA. CH isn't really necessary for your pool, so I wouldn't touch it.

 

[Mtomey]

Thats what i was thinking, thanks for confirming. Just so that I can get prepared what products, not chemical names, do I need to lower pH, and where can I get them

Thank you

 

[BellissimoH2O]

Muriatic acid is the liquid form and sodium bisulfate is the safer dry form. Any lowes, walmart, leslies, pinch a penny, local pool store, amazon will have it.

 

[jblizzle]

Stick with the muriatic acid and avoid adding sulfates to your pool with the dry acid (which also costs more).

 

[Mtomey]

sounds like i could use the 2 bottles on the top left since i already have them from previous owner.. thanks again

Today's photo

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[kimkats]

BLUE! I see BLUE! You are doing it! NICE JOB!

Kim:cat:

 

[Mtomey]

Yes blue is better than green *happy*

Here are the ones from today.

Is it normal that it went back to green overnight? I am only measuring FC, is that ok? Started SLAMing at about 3pm, then at 4, took the pic and did another round at 7. Any other advice?

Thanks

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[MarianParoo]

Yes. I would check your CC also. Do you have lights in your pool? The niches behind them are notorious for hiding algae... Potentially lots of it.

 

[Mtomey]

Cc was nonexistent today as well (tested it once at 3pm. There is a light... water level is above it, should we try to take it apart as is?

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[MarianParoo]

Yup. You should. Your pool looks like it probably has standard lights. That means there should be a screw at the 12 o'clock position that is hopefully hand-tightened. Open that up and lift the housing up and out. Scrub the niche and tubing really well and soak the light in your high FC water. If there is visible algae or gunk on the light, scrub that really well and soak it in a bucket of high FC pool water for a day. A toothbrush may come in handy.

 

[Mtomey]

Will give that a try tomorrow, thanks!

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[Richard320]

Cc was nonexistent today as well (tested it once at 3pm. There is a light... water level is above it, should we try to take it apart as is?

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Check out the pictures. Think I may have found my FC demand issue?

 

[Mtomey]

My husband says he needs to get into the water to take the light out but i am not confortable with the levels so high. It is very clear, has been slamming today... can someone clarify the overnight test? Also, i have been finding sand when i clean the cleaner bag, is that normal? Also, where the cleaner is connected, water comes up like shown in the picture

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[tim5055]

My husband says he needs to get into the water to take the light out but i am not confortable with the levels so high. It is very clear, has been slamming today... can someone clarify the overnight test?

while awkward, you can normally get the light out by laying on the deck and reaching down. As Marian said, there should only be one screw at the top.

"Clarify" the OCLT? As explain how it's conducted?

As only two things consume chlorine, UV from the sun or organics in the water being oxidized we test the FC "loss" overnight with no UV demand on the pool.

So, after the sun is no longer on the pool adjust your FC to shock level. Give the chlorine 15-20 minutes to mix well and get an accurate FC reading. Do not add any more chlorine nor should a SWCG be running. Before the sun is on the pool take another FC reading. How much did you loose. We say any loss below 1ppm is a pass for the test.

 

[Mtomey]

There are screws all around it, its a changing color light. Do i use the blue box kit for that tedt or the one i have been using 'chlorine only' vase with the powder and r-0871?
By the way, i have been doing 10ml, can i do 5 and multiply by .25?

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[pabeader]

If you do 5ml you multiply by 1. Don't do it for the OCLT though.

 

[Mtomey]

Ok thanks

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[frustratedpoolmom]

There should be a valve to close the cleaner port.

 

[Mtomey]

Ok so i measured the FC and it was 26... dumped 1 gallon of clorox, 20 min later FC is 30.5

There is a switch for the cleaner and i turned it off, also changed from filter to recirculate and unplugged the cleaner and took out.

If i lose less than 1 ppm by morning, the following steps are to lower cya, fc and ph, right?

My husband didnt clean the light today, he might be able to do it tomorrow but that would be a hassle, the diving board is right on top of it, like i said, screws all around it...

Will bringing the cya down make the water clear?

Thanks

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[frustratedpoolmom]

I'm sorry - I need to read your thread to answer your question.

CYA has very little to do with achieving clarity Post-SLAM. It takes time to filter out the dead stuff is all.

- - - Updated - - -

Ok. now you need to wait about 3 more hours and retest the FC again. That will be your comparison number for your OCLT test.

Then, post a full set of results.

If your CYA is 70, you can run with it for this summer if you plan to use liquid. Definitely doable and no good reason to do a drain and refill.

I don't see current PH tests so can't really say, but since your FC is up there that can wait too.