Yes on help. My mother in law has helped me scrub and enjoys helping with the project. Assembly will be me and the wife. We've built a garage and remodeled a couple of houses. And remarkably we are both still alive and speaking to each other!
Just bought a used Esther Williams 15x30 Carousel
- Thread starter Wichita Chief
- Start date
Lol on still speaking after doing projects together.
MIL just wants to earn some swim time hehe!
Kim:cat:
MIL just wants to earn some swim time hehe!
Kim:cat:
Rain. And more rain. I did get some garage time to work on various items which needed attention before the install. Anyone know of something which will remove a hard water calcium deposit off of a couple of finished aluminum side panels without ruining the paint? coating? It looks like the skimmer and the return fitting gaskets leaked and the pool water built up a deposit down the side below each of the items. Due to the rural location of the owner I'm sure they used well water in the pool. I have tried vinegar, a/c coil cleaner acid diluted, simple green and another cleaner. I might have to go get some limeaway. It doesn't even want to scrape off! Any ideas? You'd think having well water where I live I'd be better versed in this. LOL.
I would try CLR (calsum, lime, rust). Let is sit on it for a while and see what happens. It might take a couple of times to get it off. That is what works here. I am on a well so.........
Kim:cat:
Kim:cat:
It turns out we had CLR. We both forgot we had it the other day when trying to decide what to use. It is sure a stubborn deposit. The CLR used full strength and re-applied for approx 30 minutes is helping but I'll need to spend some more time on it tomorrow night. Also I'm going to have to address the deep pitting in the area around the skimmer opening where the gasket covers. The deposit probably is a result of the skimmer gasket not sealing properly and leaking water down from it. I'm going to hit the aluminum corrosion with some of my favorite aluminum cleaner. A/C coil cleaner acid. Once the corrosion is stopped and etched I'll use a wire brush on it lightly. Then I'll skim coat and fill the pitting with JB Weld. I've done this on other things before and it worked good. Since the real sealing is done by the gasket it just needs a solid smooth surface to press against. If all else fails I can buy a replacement panel for $99.00. Now is the time to get it right. I sure don't want to try and replace a panel once the pool is up. I'll see how it looks once I clean the corrosion.
VERY solid plan you have. Husband LOVES JB weld! the trick will be getting it smooth enough for a solid fit for the gasket. Did you get a new gasket?
Glad the CLR is working. I soak paper towels in it and let them sit on the areas that need to be cleaned. That keeps it right where I need it.
Kim:cat:
Glad the CLR is working. I soak paper towels in it and let them sit on the areas that need to be cleaned. That keeps it right where I need it.
Kim:cat:
CJadamec
TFP Expert
For what its worth I've used a product called Rydlyme to clean a large outdoor radiator that was literally filled solid with hard water deposits. https://www.boiler-outlet.com/secure/store/wpbec_searchItem.asp?strSearch=RYDLYME 1 Gallon . Its easier and safer to use than any A/C coil cleaner I've ever used. From my experience on a large aluminum hulled ferry I can say that heavy aluminum corrosion looks and awful lot like hard water scale. A gentle touch with a stiff wire brush might work better than chemical treatments.
I had a nice update typed up and such and then my dumb finger hit the wrong key and "poof!!" Gone! I type sloooow. So I won't re-do it tonight. Here are some pics;
What the corrosion looked like.
My first coat of JB Weld applied. I went with a smaller putty knife and that worked better.
Primed and drying. Much better!!
Wall foam and bottom cove just waiting to go!
Pink foam for the bottom. Just waiting.
The site where it will go. Still in my way are the 1,000 lbs steps and decking for the old Intex pool. Rain and getting my help over have prevented me from moving them out. My back is not a fan of moving them short handed. Ask me how I know............ The pool will be placed from the small slab to the right by the electrical hook up to about 4'-5' to the left of the steps. This picture is taken from the deck just off the back patio door of the house.
What the corrosion looked like.
My first coat of JB Weld applied. I went with a smaller putty knife and that worked better.
Primed and drying. Much better!!
Wall foam and bottom cove just waiting to go!
Pink foam for the bottom. Just waiting.
The site where it will go. Still in my way are the 1,000 lbs steps and decking for the old Intex pool. Rain and getting my help over have prevented me from moving them out. My back is not a fan of moving them short handed. Ask me how I know............ The pool will be placed from the small slab to the right by the electrical hook up to about 4'-5' to the left of the steps. This picture is taken from the deck just off the back patio door of the house.
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Chief! Try typing something in the reply box and see if your other post was saved. There should be a messg. on the bottom, left in a box saying something like "restore messg." or such. (Been there, done that so I KNOW what you are talking about).
You do good work! That skimmer plate looks new! Love how JB weld works. Hubby uses it quite often. Put spray paint on it and no one will even know!
Are you going to try to reuse the deck and steps? Poor back
Best to wait for help.
Kim:cat:
You do good work! That skimmer plate looks new! Love how JB weld works. Hubby uses it quite often. Put spray paint on it and no one will even know!
Are you going to try to reuse the deck and steps? Poor back
Best to wait for help.Kim:cat:
Thanks all! I was really not too bad to fill in the pitting area. I had nothing to lose right? I will have to try the restore of the message next time. LOL. Yes I will try to incorporate the wide steps and upper deck into the new install. That is the reason the 95 year young Grandmother in law will get in the old pool! Good solid steps up to the landing and sturdy pool steps into the pool. I don't build anything half way. As PT Barnum was quoted as saying "if it's worth doing it's worth over doing!"
A man after my own heart! Do it AND do it right and for the right reasons!
Kim:cat:
Kim:cat:
I got my replacement bolts ordered yesterday. 316 stainless steel ones to replace all the badly rusted ones on the top clips which go on the top of the uprights.There are many different grades of stainless steel. The two commonly used grades are 304 (18-8) and 316, with 316 being more corrosion resistant than 304. I always thought the SS bolts I used on my hot rods were stronger than the plain old steel ones I took out. And they look cool. Not so. Since SS can't be hardened by heat treatment they are not up to grade 8 strength! (most SS bolts. There specialty SS bolts made)
I learned some things about stainless bolts or just stainless in general. Just using a regular steel wrench or screwdriver will leave a very small amount of steel behind which can cause the SS fastener to rust. Screw driver or driver tips should be Chrome Vanadium steel. Allen keys should be Hardened-Chrome plated. Cutting Wheels should be made from Aluminium Oxide, be ‘iron’ or ‘carbon – steel’ free, or be labelled “For Stainless Steel”.
"Stainless steel works because it has another element, chromium, added to the steel during its manufacture. The chromium forms a layer of chromium oxide to the outside of the fastener as protection to the steel against corrosion. The layer forms on any exposed metal, and is impervious to water and air, protecting the metal underneath." "There is a catch – to form the protective chromium oxide, the fastener must be exposed to oxygen. No oxygen, no chromium oxide layer, and NO corrosion resistance. So, stainless steel only is “stainless” when the part is exposed to oxygen. There is adequate oxygen present in both air and water." I NEEDS to be exposed to rainwater!" When contaminants settle on stainless steel, depending on the grade and the surface finish, these can damage this protective layer, allowing oxygen to react with the iron in the stainless steel causing it to rust. If the stainless steel is exposed to rainwater, then this should wash these contaminants away, restoring the stainless steel’s protective layer." So what this also means is if a fastener is embedded into something like a landscape timber or a boat hull or transom a hot dipped galvanized might be a better choice.
Not trying to bore anyone but I found this interesting! A person should us some oil or anti-seize to help prevent galling also.
When will this go up? More rain and thunderstorms forecast for next week. Of course a week plus out forecasts change.. Once we get out of this cycle of rain weekly I should be good to go. It might still be a few weeks if next week gets washed out.
I learned some things about stainless bolts or just stainless in general. Just using a regular steel wrench or screwdriver will leave a very small amount of steel behind which can cause the SS fastener to rust. Screw driver or driver tips should be Chrome Vanadium steel. Allen keys should be Hardened-Chrome plated. Cutting Wheels should be made from Aluminium Oxide, be ‘iron’ or ‘carbon – steel’ free, or be labelled “For Stainless Steel”.
"Stainless steel works because it has another element, chromium, added to the steel during its manufacture. The chromium forms a layer of chromium oxide to the outside of the fastener as protection to the steel against corrosion. The layer forms on any exposed metal, and is impervious to water and air, protecting the metal underneath." "There is a catch – to form the protective chromium oxide, the fastener must be exposed to oxygen. No oxygen, no chromium oxide layer, and NO corrosion resistance. So, stainless steel only is “stainless” when the part is exposed to oxygen. There is adequate oxygen present in both air and water." I NEEDS to be exposed to rainwater!" When contaminants settle on stainless steel, depending on the grade and the surface finish, these can damage this protective layer, allowing oxygen to react with the iron in the stainless steel causing it to rust. If the stainless steel is exposed to rainwater, then this should wash these contaminants away, restoring the stainless steel’s protective layer." So what this also means is if a fastener is embedded into something like a landscape timber or a boat hull or transom a hot dipped galvanized might be a better choice.
Not trying to bore anyone but I found this interesting! A person should us some oil or anti-seize to help prevent galling also.
When will this go up? More rain and thunderstorms forecast for next week. Of course a week plus out forecasts change.. Once we get out of this cycle of rain weekly I should be good to go. It might still be a few weeks if next week gets washed out.
One of these is not like the other.......hehe The different kinds of SS and how they work IS very interesting. My husband was nodding his head as he read what your wrote.
Kim:cat:
Kim:cat:
So much for my plans to install this weekend. I guess I'll just have to fire up the smoker! My bolts arrived the other day. They look good sitting there...........................
philc
0
Looks somewhat like our weather. I know when I put my pool in, all it did was rain!