air pockets forming

Jump to latest Follow Reply
domct203 said:
The reason that there is live algae in her filter is because there is live algae in the pool. I don't see how adding highly concentrated chlorine into the skimmer is going to help this situation.

At TFP we try not to base our actions on "just because".

Dom
Click to expand...

With limited flow through her filter, my suggestion was and is to add a small amount of chlorine directly to the skimmer. I don't believe there is any evidence to support that adding chlorine directly to the skimmer will damage the equipment, and, it will be better distributed throughout the pool. That's in addition to briefly raising the chlorine level in the filter. I understand you don't think it will help... If you think it's a risk to personal safety or pool equipment, please explain and I'll gladly weigh your comments vs my thoughts on the process.
 
MSL said:
With limited flow through her filter, my suggestion was and is to add a small amount of chlorine directly to the skimmer. I don't believe there is any evidence to support that adding chlorine directly to the skimmer will damage the equipment, and, it will be better distributed throughout the pool. That's in addition to briefly raising the chlorine level in the filter. I understand you don't think it will help... If you think it's a risk to personal safety or pool equipment, please explain and I'll gladly weigh your comments vs my thoughts on the process.
Click to expand...

I'm not suggesting that this will damage anything, I just don't see how this will help overall with a green pool. Adding chlorine to the skimmer is not going to clean the filter media. Algae, whether dead or alive, is still going to clog it. The root cause of algae in the filter is the algae in the pool.

I'm not trying to argue with you, but "adding a small amount just because" is not how we advocate pool care here at TFP. Besides, the chlorine will pass through so quickly it will have next to no effect on the algae in the filter. Killing the algae in the main body of water should be the focus, and that is done by maintaining a specific FC level over time through a SLAM, not from a quick burst of chlorine through the filter which seems familiar to the "shock & pray" methods used by pool stores.

Our methods are based on facts, and have been proven in thousands of pools throughout this forum. It seems that you "think" that by killing a small % of algae in the filter will prevent the filter from being clogged again from the majority of the algae that is still in the water.

Dom
 
SLAM continues and the air bubbles are gone. Glad but? The filter pressure is steadier and predictable again. The only thing I can say is I think the pressure tip on hose is cleaning filter cartridges better than the comb.

I get my test kit today, I think. I didn't add any chlorine yet today in hopes that the tracking info is correct. Here are pics, and looking down into the water I see deposits of brown on white steps. And I can just make out the trim tile on the third step down; yesterday only could see the second step. And looking across pool I can vaguely see the swim out ledge/step.

Today is day seven, these are my third set of pics including green filter water, but my cartridges shot wouldn't upload:

- - - Updated - - -

I didn't mean to say test kit - I meant that my chlorine reagent is arriving so I can take a reading on the FC, etc.
 

Attachments

  • 3rd long shot.jpg
    3rd long shot.jpg
    21.4 KB · Views: 59
  • 3rd close up.jpg
    3rd close up.jpg
    16 KB · Views: 57
  • green filter water day seven.jpg
    green filter water day seven.jpg
    33.5 KB · Views: 59
domct203 said:
I'm not suggesting that this will damage anything, I just don't see how this will help overall with a green pool. Adding chlorine to the skimmer is not going to clean the filter media. Algae, whether dead or alive, is still going to clog it. The root cause of algae in the filter is the algae in the pool.

I'm not trying to argue with you, but "adding a small amount just because" is not how we advocate pool care here at TFP. Besides, the chlorine will pass through so quickly it will have next to no effect on the algae in the filter. Killing the algae in the main body of water should be the focus, and that is done by maintaining a specific FC level over time through a SLAM, not from a quick burst of chlorine through the filter which seems familiar to the "shock & pray" methods used by pool stores.

Our methods are based on facts, and have been proven in thousands of pools throughout this forum. It seems that you "think" that by killing a small % of algae in the filter will prevent the filter from being clogged again from the majority of the algae that is still in the water.

Dom
Click to expand...

Also not "arguing", but rather discussing.... You keep quoting my "just because", but then use it in a way that incorrectly implies I didn't follow it with a valid reason. Just because we don't know the characteristics of her pool, if it has a main drain, is the main drain open, how often is she brushing, does it have good circulation, etc, etc. As you know, when you pour bleach in to the pool, it sinks. You will get no better distribution than what you can get by adding bleach to the skimmer (assuming you have multiple, properly staged return jets). For that reason, putting some (or even all) of the bleach in the pool via the skimmer is a valid approach and can only improve the situation. The fact that a slightly higher concentration will spend a little extra time in the filter (which at the time of my post had very little flow) is a bonus.

I would be happy to discuss it in a new subject appropriate thread if you would like as maybe others might be interested as well.

Getting back to the topic of this thread. I believe you saw the air bubble in your pump basket because the filter was so clogged and the flow was minimal. It sounds like your frequent cleanings have corrected that issue and I can definitely see an improvement in your most recent pictures. Interested to see how it turns out...

- - - Updated - - -

Laurcay: you are addressing the spa during this process as well, correct?
 
The more read up on how to do things correctly the more I cringe.

For example, I never looked into how to add chlorine to my pool,, I just walked slowly around the perimeter, held the jug out as far away from the side as possibe and added it close to the surface, while wearing protective eyewear. I see through many threads, now, that the majority say to pour it over the return in the deep end. I have been careful to do more pouring in the middle (my deep) and smaller amounts where the bleach could get near a structure. I have added a few drops to the middle of my spa as well.

MSL - yes I am addressing the spa during this process as well, in that I keep the main spa drain open and return water through it.

My air bubble issue is gone, and it seemed to go the opposite way after cleaning my filters this time. The pump basket filled within a few seconds, no champagne bubbles that I could see. The air pressure valve is getting harder to close all the way, and this time I had to tap it lightly with a rubber mallet and still a tiny trickle of water is issuing out. I have never checked the top housing/pressure valve and o ring so I guess that's next.
 
Glad to see that things are clearing up.

Yes, it is best to add liquid chlorine by slowly pouring in front of a deep end return jet, directly into the jet of water. This will help it to distribute into the volume of the pool. It is also wise to quickly brush directly below where you poured to ensure that any chlorine that slipped by the return jet doesn't settle on the bottom surface.

Also, wait at least 30 min after adding before you do any testing, & never add chlorine and muriatic acid at the same time. If those combine it can create hazardous chlorine gas. Never store them together either.

Dom
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
CYA was brought down to 55 at start of SLAM after exchanging water over five days to bring it down from over 100.
Now is it reading 40, I guess due to the contstant rains we just came out of. I have not exchanged water while in the SLAM.
 
LaurCay said:
CYA was brought down to 55 at start of SLAM after exchanging water over five days to bring it down from over 100.
Now is it reading 40, I guess due to the contstant rains we just came out of. I have not exchanged water while in the SLAM.
Click to expand...

I just replaced a bunch of water myself to lower my CYA and take advantage of the crazy rains we had in central TX. Going from 55 to 40 is a pretty extreme drop though. You would have to drain almost 30% and fill with new water. I'm wondering if your CYA is higher and you actually need more bleach. Just a thought.
 
FC is very high because I must have typed in 26 instead of 16 for shock level FC on pool math. So instead of readings at 16 which I expected, they were at 26 half an hour after adding 3 jugs chlorine at 4 pm yesterday. Last evening FC = 24 and at 6 am this morning FC = 24 and CC = 1.0. The pool looks great. The cartridges held to 8 above clean psi and I will continue to clean them daily. Here is my equipment question:

After learning how to distribute liquid chlorine, I went to look at where my returns actually are, and the two most powerful returns, in that they are visible with a near to top of the surface water flow, are in shallow ends at either end, one of them directly over a step. The idea I had was to turn the dedicated polaris pool cleaner return on because it is over deep end and provides a blast of powerful return even if further below surface. However, this line hasn't been run in quite awhile, (a year?) because I gave up on fooling with its mal performance. Anyways, one of the pvc joints/connections near the polaris motor started to spew water out, I turned it back off immediately, went to the pool to look at return and water, air and brown stuff spit out intermittently, and later when brushing the pool I noticed the waterfall was partially covered in water so somehow water was leaked there without me turning that valve on.

I will look at the pvc connection where it leaked first, any other suggestions?
 
MSL said:
I just replaced a bunch of water myself to lower my CYA and take advantage of the crazy rains we had in central TX. Going from 55 to 40 is a pretty extreme drop though. You would have to drain almost 30% and fill with new water. I'm wondering if your CYA is higher and you actually need more bleach. Just a thought.
Click to expand...
I just re evaluated my CYA testing and after researching threads on how to take a reading I think that it is at 50 not 40. Thanks for your comment.
 
Looking great....water still looks cloudy...

Remember, your slam is over when....
CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
And the water is clear.

When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.
 
Continue filtering 24/7, you may even want to add a bit if cellulose fiber filter media to your filter to help clear it faster.
 
FC fell by 4 ppm over this night, so I am assuming smforte is right, the water was not clear and that I am not done yet. As I understand it, FC levels will drift back down to normal levels, but this looks like I am not done SLAMing since the loss was overnight.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply