AquaRite Chlorinator - No power light, Generating light and no flow, then goes dark

[MTVUFG8R]

This is an older thread to which I believe my problem points to however it talks about taking the piece off before being able to see the back of it and mine per the pic is easily with a gentle bend. Is this the same \ similar issue or is there one located behind the board as well?
Aquarite Not generating - lights not on.

I believe I need to replace the black 'disc' ??

Mike

 

[chiefwej]

That black disk with sl32 2r025 printed on it is the input resistor. That is the most common failure. If you are replacing it there are videos on YouTube that may assist you. Be very careful when disconnecting the wires and take pictures of everything so you are sure to get them all back in place. The part is available from DigiKey for about $2.50, shipping cost more than the part.

I found an easy way to replace it. Cut the legs off the old one leaving them as long as possible, the bend them over the legs of the new one and solder in place. This way there is no soldering directly on the PC board and the new resistor is left standing off the board at a 90 degree angle for better cooling. You can notice on your board evidence of damage from overheating near the base of the resistor, this avoids that.

 

[MTVUFG8R]

Thanks... I build R\C models so the soldering is not an issue and that's a great idea to solder the wires only and keep heat as much as possible off the board.

 

[ducss750]

Yep, I did this same thing except I wish I'd known the shortcut chiefwej talked about. I did a terrible job soldering and it still works fine. Saved a ton of money. Just gotta be very careful when handling the circuit board.