First time pool owner with SWG

RuthN

0
Aug 2, 2015
66
TX
Hi all. I've been getting help in the other forum with my readings and such, but have a question to ask in here.

I was was going to have someone come over and show me how to use the equipment, but at $150 for one hour, I decided to pass on that.

i have the manuals for all the equipment, but here's my main question.

how long should the SWG be running? The previous owners have two timers set on the equipment and I am assuming the SWG is tied into the pump. The pump runs on high from 7 am-11am and I am guessing that is when the SWG is also running. I have yet to be able to confirm that because I'm at work during those hours.

I know now it's working at some point because I have salt in the pool and chlorine...although the FC is only 1.5 right now. I have tested FC in the late afternoons when the sun is off the pool.

im assuming the previous owner had the timers set for a reason and knew what he was doing; however, I would like to understand myself. Maybe the settings need to be tweaked.
 
Thank you! I HAVE read everything I can get my hands on, and I have the general idea of what it's supposed to be doing, but I'm just looking for some extra insight and help. I know that the percentage and run times will vary, but I need a general idea of where to start.
 
Pictures of your equipment pad and closeups of the SWG and control panel would help us be more specific. In general, your SWG is most probably set to run when your pump runs, and depending on flow may run only on high, or may run whenever your pump is running. It should also have a percentage set (i.e. 50%) which means it only produces chlorine 50% of the time the pump is on. bumping the percentage is the easiest way to raise chlorine production, but if its at 100 then you would need to bump pump run time, and maybe bump it when its running on full.
 
Let's see if these work.


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[COLOR=#333333][img] [/COLOR][URL="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-iMFZX1Dj6rSE1PS1A5b0FtY28"]IMG_3516.JPG - Google Drive[/URL][COLOR=#333333] [\img][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333][img] [/COLOR][URL="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-iMFZX1Dj6rSjhZS21hcGp6elE"]IMG_3519.JPG - Google Drive[/URL][COLOR=#333333] [\img][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333][img] [/COLOR][URL="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-iMFZX1Dj6rc094c3BoRTZqUE0"]IMG_3520.JPG - Google Drive[/URL][COLOR=#333333] [\img][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333][img] [/COLOR][URL="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-iMFZX1Dj6rQ083T3lWV3BJc2c"]IMG_3523.JPG - Google Drive[/URL][COLOR=#333333] [\img][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333][img] [/COLOR][URL="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-iMFZX1Dj6rcmFFVzF1aTZDY2s"]IMG_3525.JPG - Google Drive[/URL][COLOR=#333333] [\img][/COLOR]
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the one and only time I saw the SWG on it was at 85%.[/COLOR]
 
RuthN,
but I'm just looking for some extra insight and help.
Everything we teach begins and ends with test results. If you will post your current CYA and FC, we can help make a guess at how to set your run time. We really need to see all your test results to make educated opinions rather than just stabbing in the dark.
 
Someone with the Jandy 2.0 HP 2 peed will have to answer about if the low speed is enough to trigger the flow sensor in the SWG. Since the aquapur is set at 80% now, you will have to increase the run time to up production.

It's also OK to manually turn the equipment on when you are there so you can see how it's all working. Turn the Jandy pump on low and see if the SWG shows as outputting. Either way, to bump chlorine production you will have to bump run time of the pump.
 
To answer your question the SWG needs to run as long as it needs to and at a high enough output percentage in order to make enough chlorine for your pool. With that said, we need to see all of the pools chem levels:

FC
CC
CYA
pH
TA
CH

Without knowing these numbers we have no idea if your pool is balanced or not. The amount of CYA in the pool plays a major factor in how much chlorine needs to be in the pool. One thing that I do know is that we can improve the SWG performance if the pool is balanced per TFP suggestions, Water Balance for SWCGs.
 
Test results from 2 days ago -

I did testing again today. The only thing I've done is added conditioner. Some of these numbers are ridiculous. I don't know how to use the equipment....swg, etc. There's a timer and I haven't changed any settings since I moved in. They are the previous owners.

Here are my numbers

FC. 1.5
CC .5
TC. 2.0
CH. 50
TA. 250
CYA. 20
ph: 7.8

Test was done in late afternoon after shade had hit the pool. Pool sits in direct sunlight from approximately 9 am to 4 pm. I have been putting in conditioner (I bought an 8 lb bucket) since Sunday....that's why I'm only testing every two days right now.
 
Now that's helpful. Your CYA is too low. Bring your CYA to 60 ppm and don't touch a thing on your SWG. Your FC is being consumed too rapidly by the sun and increased CYA will help preserve it. You may have to reduce the percentage on your SWG but don't do it until you observe FC climbing.
 

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I THINK the SWG is running when the pump is on high from 7 am to 10am. I have YET to verify that since I'm not home during those hours. I'm hoping to verify that tomorrow morning. Beyond that, I will be testing the water again tonight since it's been 2 days and I've added more conditioner. Hopefully there is an increase in CYA.
 
The CYA will be in there but it might not show up on a test for a week. Test the FC daily and after a week test the CYA. From your test results there is no need to rush things. If you want, it wouldn't harm the pool to add a gallon of bleach to help boost the FC a bit.
 
If my calculator numbers are correct, based on your pool volume, it would take 5lb 6oz of granular stabilizer to go from your first CYA of 20 to the recommended 60. So if you've only put-in about 3 lbs so far, you can still add 2 more pounds.
 
Three pounds of CYA should bring it up to 40 as three pounds should only add 20 points to the CYA. To be safe, wait the full week to see how close the CYA is to 40. If you wait the week and it measures 40 then you can add the rest of the container which should raise it close to 80.

You can use PoolMath to make all these calculations.
 
New readings based upon a sample taken from the part of the pool that had been shaded for 3 hours:

ph 7.8
FC-2.0
CC-0
TC-2.0
CH-125
TA-150
CYA-40

looks like conditioner is starting to work.
 
CYA starting to rise for you is a good thing. Now a couple other things to watch:
- Don't let Ph get any higher than 7.8. You can use muriatic acid to lower back down to the mid-7s. It will also lower TA as well.
- Keep working on increasing the FC to at least an FC of 4. Going to even 5-6 won't hurt right now either since your FC has been low for a while. If you're still trying to dial-in that SWG, you can use a little regular bleach to assist in raising the FC a little.

Looks like you are doing better though. If the condition of your water clarity should change, let us know.
 

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