1/2" PVC valve control?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
jobybett

jobybett

0
Gold Supporter
Silver Supporter
Mar 15, 2017
106
Mission Viejo, CA
Pool Size
22000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Hi,

I have a 1/2 PVC line feeding my pool when I need to add water, currently its got a leaking hand tap turning it on and off, I'd really like to replace it with an automated valve controlled by my Aqualink, anyone got a good way to do this?

So far I have come up with:
  1. Add the Jandy sprinkler controller and use a normal garden sprinkler valve - I'd say overkill and expensive
  2. Use a normal 2" automated jandy valve with a bunch of reduces to go from 1/2" to 2" and back - again seems silly
  3. Stop being lazy and fit a new tap - nope, I'm lazy and love automation

??

Thanks
 
J,

I have a similar setup and use a standard sprinkler valve.

I added a small step-down transformer to my EasyTouch and use an Aux circuit to apply 115 VAC to the input side, the output side powers the valve.

It runs for an hour and shuts off. I can tell by the water level when it is time to turn it on.

The only downside is that the input pipe is connected to the back of my skimmer and when I turn it on, it will push the skimmer door shut. I have to put a brick on the door to keep it down. Not the smartest design ever, but too late now..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I was going to use one of the spare JVA outputs from the Aqualink rather than a 115 relay, I know the JVA's are 24 VAC but do you know what the voltage actually does?
 
J,

If you are talking about using a valve driver output, I'd make sure that the circuit card can support the amount of current that the sprinkler valve requires.

Not saying it won't work, just saying finding out by destroying your PCB does not sound like much of a plan... :p

That is the main reason I used an additional transformer, as I was too chicken to plug the sprinkler valve directly into my EasyTouch PCB.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Re: 1/2" PVC valve control?

jobybett said:
I was going to use one of the spare JVA outputs from the Aqualink rather than a 115 relay, I know the JVA's are 24 VAC but do you know what the voltage actually does?
Click to expand...


There are 3 wires that run to the actuator: a common and 2 legs at 24VAC. One leg always has power to it and is switched to the opposite leg from the internal relay from your panel when it receives a command to activate.

When the actuator motor receives current, it activates until the cam positioned for that rotational direction hits the limit switch and interrupts the current. The valve stops rotating but only because the current was interrupted at the limit switch not because power was cut from that leg.

I don't see why what you are proposing wouldn't work. You would only need one leg from the JVA.
 
Well I was thinking of what you said and using a relay rather than the JVA output, and having to add a step down transformer. Getting a 110V valve would solve that issue and make is simpler, but then I have the issue of running the 110V and having to worry about those codes and safety type stuff. I also went and checked the pipe, its 3/4 sched 40 PVC, not 1/2 as I thought.

So back to hunting for the right valve, the Aqualink puts out 24VAC up to 0.75A (that's what I Jandy JVA draws) so as long as I stick to that I should be fine.

3/4" automated valve that is normally closed and opens when 24VAC is applied that draws no more than 0.75A time for more Googling
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply