0 CYA and 0 FC. Need advise

[proavia]

Link your PoolMath logs to your forum account.

Update your signature with you shiny new test kit info.

I can't remember, did you pull the Nature2 cartridge out. If so, and you don't intend to use it again, delete from your signature.
Also add manufacturers and model numbers to the equipment in your signature.

 

[mgtfp]

It’s not just the card that’s wet. It’s the bottles and PH test reader as well. The R-0013 is down a little, the R-0007 is only 1/2 full and the R-0010 is also down a little. I had this kit on my kitchen counter to look at it when I got it and also had the wet card on the counter. Not sure if these are toxic but I just scrubbed the heck out of my counters for safe measure.

Just rinse off all the bottles while making sure they're closed, and also the kit. I'm sure Nate will replace the leaked reagents.

On the bright side : At least it were not the acid or base reagents that leaked and they were clear. [Edit: I missed the 0010, that is a base. I think it has a concentration of a bit under 2%, so it might be slightly irritating to skin, but I don't think you need to be worried there. I'm sure I got plenty of it on my fingers over the years, and I still have all ten of them.]

I once had a Taylor kit arriving from the US where the pH-indicator had leaked. The kit looked quite artistic, but at least then I knew the pH distribution inside of my kit. Not sure how useful that information is, but hey, you never know...

 

[Newdude]

The kit looked quite artistic, but at least then I knew the pH distribution inside of my kit.

See. Right there I know you're lying.

Otherwise you would have said the test kit box was 7.6 but maybe 7.4 and kinda also 7.8 and you gave up trying because it was in range and not time to dose yet.

 

[LovinPoolLife]

Thats a good thing

Post the complete set of test results

FC
CC
PH
CYA
TA
CH

Ok. I’ll do the rest of the tests. Water is still hazy/cloudy. And I put 1/2 gal of 12.5% liquid chlorine in this morning (FC was a 3 at the time). So I’m guessing something is still using it.

 

[mgtfp]

See. Right there I know you're lying.

Otherwise you would have said the test kit box was 7.6 but maybe 7.4 and kinda also 7.8 and you gave up trying because it was in range and not time to dose yet.

See, I'm bad with those orangish/reddish colours, and I missed the opportunity to stick my pH-meter in...

 

[LovinPoolLife]

That's great. Means you truly got rid of the Ammonia. FC is holding and no CC.

This morning my Fc was a 3 (on test strip) and I added 1/2 gal of liquid chlorine 12.5%. So something is still using it. Water is still cloudy/hazy. But chlorine holds overnight. It drops but not by much.

Thats a good thing

Post the complete set of test results

FC
CC
PH
CYA
TA
CH

FC= 3.5
CC= .5 (turned a very minute shade of pink and 1 drop got it clear)
PH=7.2
TA= 95 (had to use my cheap store bought kit) the new one doesn’t have a dropper)
CYA= 27
CH=150

 

[mgtfp]

See. Right there I know you're lying.

Otherwise you would have said the test kit box was 7.6 but maybe 7.4 and kinda also 7.8 and you gave up trying because it was in range and not time to dose yet.

The bottle still has a yellow tint:


What'd you reckon? I'd say below 7:

 

[LovinPoolLife]

Link your PoolMath logs to your forum account.

Update your signature with you shiny new test kit info.

I can't remember, did you pull the Nature2 cartridge out. If so, and you don't intend to use it again, delete from your signature.
Also add manufacturers and model numbers to the equipment in your signature.

How do I link the pool math to my forum acct

 

[Newdude]

TA= 95 (had to use my cheap store bought kit) the new one doesn’t have a dropper)

It's missing the tip ? So thats probably the leak then. They're interchangeable if you want to rinse and dry a different tip before Nate helps out.

CYA= 27

We round up so 21-29=30. As such, only fill to the 10s and it's way easier.

Water is still cloudy/hazy. But chlorine holds overnight. It drops but not by much

Slam continues until the water is stupid clear. No traces of algae anywhere, no poofing when brushing, nothing. And invisible water. Then you Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

How do I link the pool math to my forum acct

Go to settings and scroll to the bottom to enable sharing. *providing it's the same login info at both.

 

[mgtfp]

(had to use my cheap store bought kit) the new one doesn’t have a dropper)

On the R-0009? Did that leak, too?

Don't know, does the TF100 come with acid and base demand tests? You could take the dropper off the acid demand test, rinse with distilled water, dry with a paper towel and put on the R-0009.

Another option is to use your cheapo kit, but with the indicator (R-0008) from your TF100. The titrant drops of other kits are usually not too bad, but their indicators have slightly different colour change points, so the results are not 100% comparable. But I think we can say that your TA is neither terribly low nor high, no immediate action required.

For looking up correct FC/CYA Levels, round your CYA up to 30, and you are good to officially start your SLAM.

 

[mgtfp]

You could take the dropper off the acid demand test

...or any other test, but the acid and base demand tests usually just collect dust. Which is why I suspect they are not included in the TF kits...

 

[LovinPoolLife]

We round up so 21-29=30. As such, only fill to the 10s and it's way easier.

I’ll remember to just round up next time.

 

[LovinPoolLife]

Let's ping @Sarah and Nate
They will make it right.

So the R0013 was sealed and good. The R-0007 doesn’t have a dropper and that’s the one that leaked all over. All other bottles are sealed good.

 

[LovinPoolLife]

It's missing the tip ? So thats probably the leak then. They're interchangeable if you want to rinse and dry a different tip before Nate helps out.

Yes, it’s missing the tip. I’ll just use my store bought test kit for the Alkalinity until I get a new bottle.

 

[LovinPoolLife]

Slam continues until the water is stupid clear. No traces of algae anywhere, no poofing when brushing, nothing. A

Ok so how often do I test the FC for the SLAM? And that’s the only think I check, right? I’d like to start it Friday since I work from home that day and will be able to go outside and check/add chlorine. How long do you think the slam will take to clear my pool?

 

[Newdude]

I’ll just use my store bought test kit for the Alkalinity until I get a new bottle.

As luck would have it, that's our last parameter to work on, and if it's between 60 and 100 as yours appears to be, there's no reason to mess with it with vinyl and low calcium. (Compared to plaster pools).

Ok so how often do I test the FC for the SLAM?

2 to 3 hours is best at first. As the process progresses, it holds most the FC for 3 hours...... then 5...... then 8.....

The more often you dose back to SLAM FC, the quicker it goes. We all have lives in the way, do the best you can. Go right until bedtime.

You can always dose early to buy the next X hours away for errands or whatnot. When out for the day like going to work, dose before, after, and as needed until bed.

And that’s the only think I check, right?

Yes.

 

[Newdude]

How long do you think the slam will take to clear my pool?

Most fall into the week to 2 week range. But. The babysitting the FC is only the first day or two, when the proper effort is put in. A good chuck of slam is waiting for the filter to do its thing. There's less work at that stage.

 

[LovinPoolLife]

As luck would have it, that's our last parameter to work on, and if it's between 60 and 100 as yours appears to be, there's no reason to mess with it with vinyl and low calcium. (Compared to plaster pools).


2 to 3 hours is best at first. As the process progresses, it holds most the FC for 3 hours...... then 5...... then 8.....

The more often you dose back to SLAM FC, the quicker it goes. We all have lives in the way, do the best you can. Go right until bedtime.

You can always dose early to buy the next X hours away for errands or whatnot. When out for the day like going to work, dose before, after, and as needed until bed.


Yes.

Most fall into the week to 2 week range. But. The babysitting the FC is only the first day or two, when the proper effort is put in. A good chuck of slam is waiting for the filter to do its thing. There's less work at that stage.

OMgosh when I read the first sentence, I started to panic. Thinking “I have to keep FC at 10 for 1 - 2 wks” that’ll cost a fortune LOL. I was ready to cry and just cover the pool back up. So it takes a day or 2 for for the FC to hold and not drop more than 1ppm thru the night and to have the CC no greater than .5. Once that happens, do I still need to keep it at 10ppm until it’s crystal clear. Or do I just keep FC at normal level and just wait for filter to clear the water?

 

[Newdude]

Thinking “I have to keep FC at 10 for 1 - 2 wks” that’ll cost a fortune LOL.

It's 12 for SLAM. (CYA 30) 10 was the ammonia test. And yes you need to maintain it throughout.

But after the first bit, it holds much better and isnt terrible. You're already mostly clear so it shouldn't be miserable.

Once that happens, do I still need to keep it at 10ppm until it’s crystal clear.

You hold 12 FC, as needed, (the testing will tell you how long you can go between) until the water is clear. Then you OCLT.

Vac and brush at least once daily.

Scrub every inch hiding in plain sight like up in the skimmers or inside ladder railings. (They hold a gallon or two of old water with no circulation)

 

[Sarah and Nate]

It’s not just the card that’s wet. It’s the bottles and PH test reader as well. The R-0013 is down a little, the R-0007 is only 1/2 full and the R-0010 is also down a little. I had this kit on my kitchen counter to look at it when I got it and also had the wet card on the counter. Not sure if these are toxic but I just scrubbed the heck out of my counters for safe measure.

Hi! Thanks for your business. Shoot me an email at [email protected] and I will work with you to get you the replacement supplies you need!
Nate @ TFT