Once I get my FC to around 10ppm. Then do I start to add stabilizer, using the sock I front of return method?
0 CYA and 0 FC. Need advise
- Thread starter LovinPoolLife
- Start date
dBsooner
Gold Supporter
Go one step at a time. Don’t think about that step yet. Start with the immediate issue of getting your FC to hold.
I would agree - but without accurate testing, it's hard to say when it is stabilized. Pool Store testing of CYA is about as unreliable as things get - their FC testing isn't much better. 10PPM should show solid on a strip or the Ortho test, and it's not enough to risk bleaching the liner etc, but again, can't stress getting a decent drop test enough.
Once your FC appears to be holding (i.e. it's at around 10ppm, and you aren't having to keep adding more to stay there) then you should begin the SLAM process to ensure any and all Algae is dealt with. The higher your CYA, the more chlorine the SLAM process will need, so it's in your interest NOT to increase CYA too much until you are done with the SLAM, and you know you aren't dealing with any more algae etc in the pool. Once you're done, then you can look at bringing your CYA up to level, balancing out TA/PH
This saves you time and money. No purple goop, no magic potions, no 10.7oz Calcium Hypochlorite (which is just Chlorine bound to Calcium, instead of Sodium which is bleach). 10.7oz of Cal-Hypo would raise your calcium by 2ppm. Its pointless...unless you're selling Cal-Hypo.
Time, chemistry and patience...its kinda what we do here
Thank you for all of the advise. So until my FC is holding without dropping overnight then I can add CYA back into the pool? Will all of the chlorine without CYA hurt my liner and equipment?I would agree - but without accurate testing, it's hard to say when it is stabilized. Pool Store testing of CYA is about as unreliable as things get - their FC testing isn't much better. 10PPM should show solid on a strip or the Ortho test, and it's not enough to risk bleaching the liner etc, but again, can't stress getting a decent drop test enough.
Once your FC appears to be holding (i.e. it's at around 10ppm, and you aren't having to keep adding more to stay there) then you should begin the SLAM process to ensure any and all Algae is dealt with. The higher your CYA, the more chlorine the SLAM process will need, so it's in your interest NOT to increase CYA too much until you are done with the SLAM, and you know you aren't dealing with any more algae etc in the pool. Once you're done, then you can look at bringing your CYA up to level, balancing out TA/PH
This saves you time and money. No purple goop, no magic potions, no 10.7oz Calcium Hypochlorite (which is just Chlorine bound to Calcium, instead of Sodium which is bleach). 10.7oz of Cal-Hypo would raise your calcium by 2ppm. Its pointless...unless you're selling Cal-Hypo.
Time, chemistry and patience...its kinda what we do here
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,104
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Until the ammonia is gone, your chlorine will be almost 0. FYI: This process will result in your pH being very low. Once done, check it. You may need borax to increase it.
As the chlorine will initially be eaten by the Ammonia, you should have very little FC.
Once the Ammonia is done, because you are adding a small amount at a time (2Gallons), you are going to max out at 10ppm or so, which is tolerable at low CYA levels. Ideally, you will not want to sit for long at 10PPM and no CYA, but its not going to destroy your plumbing
As has been stated, once you see that your FC isn't dropping to 0 again after 30 minutes, you can add enough CYA to bring that up to about 30, and then proceed with the SLAM process. Accurate testing is essential - which is why we keep harping on about the test kit...
What would have screwed your liner, is your original Pool Store recommendation to add 100PPM of Chlorine in one go...but let me guess...they sell liners ?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,775
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
@LovinPoolLife
#1 - order a test kit TODAY
Taylor k2006C or tf100/pro
#2 - add 5ppm we worth of liquid chlorine to the pool each day until it comes to keep things from getting worse.
#3 - post all your results when your kit comes & we can go from there.
* you can do a no drain water exchange (safest method) in the meantime to help dilute the ammonia if you feel you certainly have it & must do something but without a test kit in your hands you’re flying blind & the only safe thing you can add to the water is 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine each day.
#1 - order a test kit TODAY
Taylor k2006C or tf100/pro
#2 - add 5ppm we worth of liquid chlorine to the pool each day until it comes to keep things from getting worse.
#3 - post all your results when your kit comes & we can go from there.
* you can do a no drain water exchange (safest method) in the meantime to help dilute the ammonia if you feel you certainly have it & must do something but without a test kit in your hands you’re flying blind & the only safe thing you can add to the water is 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine each day.
Luckily we had heavy rains earlier this week and put about 3” of water in the pool. I’m going to empty about 4” or so after work and fill with fresh water from hose. Right now water is 1/2” from top of skimmer. I’ll lower to just below skimmer then fill with hose to half way up skimmer. Just to dilute and get rid of some of the ammonia water. While i wait for my test kit. I’m ordering the TC100 during my lunch today.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,775
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Add the slam option so you don’t run out of reagents - this will push you over the threshold to get free shipping as well
I went to the pet store and got the ammonia test. Mine is a little darker than the 4ppm but not by much. So I’d say between 4-5. Definitely a far cry from the 8ppm the one pool store said (where she wanted me to buy 30 bags of burnout 73 or 36 gal of liquid shock lol. So I need let’s say close to 50ppm of chlorine, correct? How many gallons is this if mine is 12.5%?
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,062
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
Lake Placid
In The Industry
- May 27, 2021
- 663
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Right around 8 gallons. But you’ll want more to SLAM after the ammonia is gone. I’d say double it to start.
i have 16 gallons on hand LOL. I stocked up last night and wasn’t sure what I would need. Now I don’t put that all in at once, correct? I’m going to add 1 or 2 gallons then wait 1/2 hr then test water then add more then test then add more,etc. until it hold FCGood move
PoolMath is your friend:
In a 20000 gal pool that's about 8 gal of 12.5% liquid chlorine.
View attachment 565866
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,062
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
Yes, about one and a half gallons at a time.
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,062
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
You'll need some later anyway to continue the SLAM to get rid of the green goo, so what you have seems reasonable.
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,062
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
Any leftovers you'll use up eventually. Once the pool is cleared, you'll need to add about 2-4 ppm per day to maintain target FC levels, or about 40-80 oz in your pool.
This may sound like a stupid question, but if all of the ammonia is gone after 8. Why would I need to add maybe another 8 more afterwards.
im sorry for all of the questions, im just really trying to educate myself so this 1. Never happens again and 2. I’ll be much better prepared if it does. 3. So I am prepared to fight this mess without having to stop and read about it or ask questions. I am making a checklist of all of the steps I need to do.
I have a chlorinator that I put the 3” bioguard tabs in. I used to put 6 pucks a week until my CYA levels got so high. Then I switched to only putting in 3 pucks a week and every Friday, adding either 1/2 to 1 gal of liquid chlorine.
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,062
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
Once the ammonia is deactivated , your chlorine can finally get to work to kill off the algae. You'll hopefully [EDIT: NOT] need another 8 gallons, but you'll never know. It's better to have too much on hand than not enough. Eventually, you'll use it.
Don't be sorry. We've all been there. It's a continuous learning curve. You're doing great!
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,062
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
You'll need to stop using using tabs. They'll get your CYA out of control again in no-time, and you're back to start without collecting 200$.
Only sustainable way is liquid chlorine. Or start thinking about a Salt Water Chlorine Generator. That's the way to go. You'll basically pay for a couple of years of chlorine upfront, but then you have a truly trouble free pool without the need to lug home jugs of chlorine.