Search results

Awesome. Start a thread! Id love to follow your progress!

Hello fellow Jersey-ite! Well for the computer handicapped, I wouldn't recommend going the route I did with raw node-red programming. The excellent nodejs-poolcontroller does a lot of the raspberry pi logic and integrates with Intelliflo and can handle the Raypak as well in a much easier way...

I'm with @Katodude. The high voltage hat seems like a cool idea but I just can't quite get there. My biggest concern is once you wire this thing up you really want something that grabs those conducter wires and doesn't let go. That, for me, is a real industrial relay spec'd for torquing down...

Hi! Sorry for the delay. Kids Soccer season is back! 1. Yes. 240v GFCI is for the pump. I think the new rules(tm) are anything that touches water needs a GFCI and I try to stick close to the NEC rules as much (or as little) as I understand them 2. I have non-GFCI 120V breakers for my...

Hi neighbor! 2nd vote for Inyopools. Replaced my 406 Raypak that was 15 years old with a new one last year. Came with everything needed and nothing plumbing-wise had changed between the models so it was an easy swap out.

With some prodding I answered my own question. I included a screenshot of what comes included with Nixie by default. So yes, you could ditch the JEP-R and go RS-485 to your pump and control the RPMs of your Jandy pump in Nixie. Disclaimer: I'm making some assumptions here. Namely that you...

So considering rstrouse's (also a serious coder who has sunk a bunch of time into an awesome software package for free) comment that you don't get temp info over RS-485, I'd just go with the 2-wire/relay method. Going to be a simpler setup. I agree the 8 relay option is a better option and value...

I'll take a stab at it. You'd want: 1. Raspberry pi to run the excellent open-source nodejs-poolcontroller software 2. Sequent Microsystems 4-relay HAT to connect to your JEP-R contact closures so you can select your speeds; this also has an RS-485 port on it to communicate with your MasterTemp...

You're making the right call DIY (IMO). Why spend 6000 when you can $600 and get more functionality for it. 1. I agree with Katodude. Either will work, just depends on what you might need feature wise. 2. I have 30amp service from the main breaker in my basement it pops up in the bottom of my...

I have a MEGA-BAS in there at the moment. I have a MEGA-IND but I can't find it :( I'm almost certain that both can be powered by 24V AC or DC but you might want to double check with Mihai. The MEGA-BAS definitely can as it's running at 0.8 amp draw off the transformer at the moment. Plenty...

2022 Update. The pool is open! The controller is still working well. Changes this year include: Removal of 5V power sources. The MEGA-IND/MEGA-BAS can take 24VAC or DC power and provide 5V to the raspberry pi. My raspberry pi now functions off the same 24VAC transformer I use to power my...

inyopools.com supposedly has them in stock. I ordered one on the 7th and am still waiting for it to switch from In Progress to Shipped. UPDATE: My RayPak shipped yesterday and is being delivered tomorrow. So 10 business days. I bought the 406A - 399k BTU, NatGas non-cupro nickel version

One more thing I just remembered. I know it's done and working now. You probably don't want to futz with it. But there's a potential downside to leaving it running in remote control mode on the Raypak... Manual override is a huge pain in the butt. You have to hold the correct button sequence...

Looks like there's only two wires there. Again, shooting blind here as I have no aqualink and don't know the options for them. The way some of these systems work is the controller, Aqualink in your case, has it's own thermometer. In those cases you max out the heater temp (or as high as you'd...

I have that same 3-wire system working with my pool controller minus the aqualink. It sounds like it didn't get wired back properly. The 3 wire system uses a Blue common wire from the P8 header that sends 24V AC out from the RayPak motherboard, and depending on which wire is connected to the...

You may want to check out ZeroTier. I have it installed on my rPi and anything I use to connect to it. It allows you to create a private VPN very simply. And the best part is it's free. Runs on Apple devices, raspberry pis, Windows, basically any system. If I need to get to my pool...

I work with setting up https a couple of times a month at work. I wouldn't do it. It's not required on an internal network and if you've exposed your controller to the internet you're cruisin for a bruisin. But If you really want to do this, check out LetsEncrypt. It's a cheap way to get a...

I'm so jealous! I keep wanting to add an FPH to my system as well. As ajw22 said you should definitely check out threads here on DIY automation. The fact that you know what a contactor is bodes well for your success. I'm not familiar with Hayward automation but I use the relay inputs in my...

I used a RS 797-5948. It's a safety isolation transformer which is a good idea around water. It's 72VA (100VA temporary) so that works out to providing 3Amps so a bit oversized for a single valve. A google search for 24VAC isolation transformer should find you something smaller in the 24VA to...

Sure! Also I did a guide in my sig. If you're on mobile turn your phone sideways and you should be able to see it.

5.3 example I'm not sure. I know it could be done in 5.3 because they had that virtual controller. njpc just returned all 0's when polled. I haven't done anything with 6.1. The link above has web call examples for how to do it on 5.3. I want to say @Katodude is doing it on the current...

I didn't realize you can control the Pentair SWCG with njpc. That's definitely a point in its favor. My Circupool EDGE40 is a manual button to select output.

The only thing I haven't done out of your list is the auto cover sensing. But I took a look at that doc. More on that below. I have a Circupool and am very happy with it. They don't have a DIY penalty either. I don't think so. And I often wonder to myself why anyone would get an...

Happy to help! I'd never done a project like this and was also a total noob. I do have a computer/tech/nerd background but it's certainly not necessary if you're DIY minded. The one caveat I see is the Solartouch system is standalone. I see problems if you try to control the pump from both...

There's a link in my sig. I have a price breakdown somewhere in that thread. think my v1 came to $600 and v3 came to $700. There's a price to be paid for pretty! If you're going to do the whole thing well then it gets a little more attractive vs the full blown automation systems.

I automated my whole pool control system from scratch so I'm all about DIY. It was a lot cheaper than buying an Intellicenter and has all the same features. But the SolarTouch mentioned above at $300 is not that expensive. If you're including your time it might be cheapest to go that route.

Mine is pretty close. There are a few of us out there using the industrial style DIN parts. I used a Raspberry Pi but you could literally disconnect my pi, snap on a PLC and wire it up basically the same and use a Click or something. There's a link in my sig. Off the top of my head, I know...

You'll want your sacrificial anode to point down or horizontally with a downish pitch, otherwise it tends to trap air in there.

I did some more reading on this here on TFP. It looks like other people came up with an even simpler solution. Run TWO electrical runs to your pool pad. One for the heater, one for everything else. You have a dedicated 50Amp circuit from the main electrical box that runs the heater and then...

I'm on 2.5 years on my current SDcard. That being said, anything you can do to reduce frequency of writes is a good thing and I could see it extending the life of the card from 3-4 years to 7-8 (or more)! As is having a backup of your config data.