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I bet he figured that out while hanging out with Pom squad on the campus quad when they were working on their tans … I always imagine their discussions must be incredibly deep -

The question to ask is how does it specifically pickup the cyanurate anion? Ion exchange resins are charge specific and don’t discriminate between which ions get attached to it. The main factor that determines how the resin operates in based on concentration differences. This is how standard...

It’s basically an ion exchange resin with granular activated carbon … it’s not going to work. Chlorinated water destroys ion exchange resins and the resin+GAC is going to pickup everything in the water. Once again - science misapplied in the pursuit of profit.

Scam. Ignore and move on ...

Any friends in the US willing to accept an order for you then you drive to go get it?

I wouldn’t operate my pool without borates. I’ve seen benefits in both pH and SWG health. Borates clamp the pH rise inside the cell to a little higher than the pKa of boric acid/borate equilibrium (around 9.5 or so). This greatly reduced we the possibility of forming calcium carbonate scale...

There is no appreciable stratification of pool water. All dissolved ions and solids are evenly distributed throughout the water column.

Those hose end filters rarely remove iron and even if they do they are limited to a few hundred gallons of water before they are spent. Your municipal water may have iron in it, it’s fairly common on the east coast. The only permanent way to remove it is to have a whole-house iron filter and...

We need to know a lot more about your pool with pictures and descriptions of the equipment, how you take care of your pool and how you are testing your water. There’s too little information to give any decent advice.

DING! DING! DING! DING! Winner winner chicken dinner!!! Exactly. You sequester the iron and then you have to drain off the water and add fresh, iron-free water. Where is the iron coming from?

Hahaha. I preferred cupric chloride with a little bit of added HCl when I would etch boards … it’s a more pleasant color than ferric chloride which looks like the urine sample from a dehydrated meth addict … Those etchants are too concentrated. All you need is a few mmols of ferric chloride...

Perhaps one way to test this would be to take a sample of CH increaser, dissolve a small amount in water and then add a few drops of diluted ferric chloride. Ferric chloride will react with trace amounts of ferrocyanide to form the mixed valence compound iron(III) ferrocyanide, aka Prussian...

Calcium chloride is a deliquescent salt. In its pure form, the calcium chloride mass will absorb water into its crystal structure rather than the ions becoming solvated by water molecules. This causes the salt to look wet and feel slimy in macroscopic quantities. This can very easily lead to...

My guess on this is that there are probably brands of calcium increaser that use ferrocyanide salts (calcium- , sodium- , or potassium ferrocyanide) as a flow and anticaking agent. Ferrocyanides undergo reversible redox (reduction/oxidation reaction) - [Fe(CN)6]4− ⇌ [Fe(CN)6]3− + e−...

Those are earthworms.

The technical answer is that you can still do the pH test when the chlorine is near 10ppm but you should read the results quickly, do not let it sit. The Taylor reagents have a very good system of pH neutral chlorine neutralizes added to then but it can only handle about 10ppm FC...

Polyfill really isn’t going to do much for light staining. You’re better off lifting the stains with vitamin C and then using sequestrant to hold any iron in solution. If you have access to iron free water, then do a partial drain and refill to reduce the iron levels. Exchange draining...

Looking at the chemicals used, the cloudiness is probably coming from the Stain Drop #2. Haviland unfortunately puts no information in their SDS sheets and hides it all under the “trade secret” designation 🙄 If I had to hazard a guess, the Stain Drop #1 is a peroxide or MPS based mixture that...

Your image links are not working. You either have to upload the images to TFP or simply copy and paste the images into the post. Using links from third party image storage systems doesn't work well

If you can wait until the water temperature drops below 60F (15.5°C) then the grow rate of most algae species becomes very very low. If you do that and add a polyquat-60 algaecide, then you should be good for 24-36 hours. You need to isolate your pool equipment from the ascorbic acid (heaters...

Do not use enzymes. They are basically snake oil and will not make any difference in your pool. Pollen is a solid substance. There’s nothing enzymes will do to affect it. Just scoop and filter and maintain the proper FC level … that’s all you can do.

You can clean hand tools off using either Bar Keepers Friend cleaner (oxalic and citric acid with scouring powder) OR apply a thick paste of cream of tartar & peroxide and let it sit (then rinse with a baking soda water solution). After removing the rust, they should be coated with a thin layer...

What things are rusting? Just from a chemistry perspective, once rust starts, it keeps going. If something has rust on it, it has to be thoroughly cleaned off, neutralized, and a protective coating has to be applied. Otherwise the presence of the existing rust and humidity just keeps the...

Yes. UV light interacts with chlorine and can also produce free radical as well. Their concentrations are small so it’s mostly a negligible phenomenon.

It makes a lot of sense in a public pool because peoples’ beliefs regarding bodily cleanliness just vary too much. There are those that are respectful and stay out of the water when they are unwell and then there are those cretins that will knowingly go into a pool with open wounds, toe fungus...

In my opinion, building code should require that indoor pools install a supplemental UV system or a secondary oxidizer system like ozone with a contact tank. In fact, one of the most effective forms of oxidative water treatment is pull water into a contact tank with a short wavelength UV source...

Great analysis of the Chlorine-CT kill times. There is some pH dependence there and if they required the pH to be dropped closer to 7.0, then the 15ppm CYA would get closer to the right chlorine contact time. But I definitely agree, trying to maintain a high level of chlorine with no CYA would...

My pool water was registering 61°F this morning … I guess I have to start paying attention to it again 😒 … I may just toss the whole kit and start fresh. I am contemplating doing a partial drain of the pool … maybe 10,000 gallons. Just want to get past sewer rate averaging first.

The stain ID kit that @ajw22 linked to above has a sachet of sulfamic acid in it that would work to lighten scale and copper staining. The entire kit has a protocol of testing that leads to recommended chemicals.

If you don’t mind wasting the water, you can try Jacks Magic No 2 stain and scale remover. It’s sulfamic acid and that is very good at lifting dirty scale and copper stains. The downside of sulfamic acid is that it doesn’t break down quickly and sulfamate reacts with chlorine forming a...