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We built a pool when we built our new home for retirement. Our kids (and now grandkids) loved it so much that my son bought a new house with his own pool. So the bad news is the grandkids now swim in their own pool. The only good news is that their house (and pool) is directly across the street...

If none are popping up, I would be looking at the 6 port valve mechanism.

You should never use a pressure washer with flip flops on. It's too easy to accidentally spray your bare foot. Ask me how I know this....

Stay out of pool stores. Their advice is incompatible with what we teach here. Their testing is not reliable. They will sell you overpriced magic potions, which in many cases are the same chemicals that can be purchased at your local grocery, hardware or big box store much cheaper, and in...

Sta-Rite is now owned by Pentair. Here is an owners manual for your filter. https://www.pentairpool.com/~/media/websites/pool/downloads/filters/manuals/system3defilterownersmanualenglish.pdf Parts for the filter are still available.

There are actually two other things you can do while waiting for that test kit to arrive. Get yourself a good pool leaf rake and pole and get everthing you can out of the bottom of that pool. If you don't know what a leaf rake is it looks like this: Secondly, start studying Pool School...

I don't know the cause, but when I put in a new gear pack, I had the same thing happen. I swapped the old top rotor back on the new gear pack and it started running, so I left it at that. That's not an answer, just a for what it's worth comment. You should also know that if you are the...

It will take as long as it takes. Take pictures each day from the same angle so you can track your progress. Once all the algae is dead, it will take a while to clear it out. With a sand filter it takes a bit longer and involves a lot of back washing. A good idea to have some DE on hand...

It'll take a lot of bleach, but if you get the FC TO 32, and keep it there, the water will clear. Once you get the pool clear, you can operate it with a CYA that high. In fact, that's where mine is set most of the time, (because we run SWG pool at higher CYA levels). The only real issue is...

If you remove and add at the same time it will take a very long time. Better to drain 60% of the water, then when you refill the CYA will be 35. If you do a series of drain and refill or simultaneous draining and filling, a substantial portion or the water you are draining is fresh water you...

Once you have the pool up and running using bleach (AKA liquid chlorine), we can look at switching to a salt system. There may be some Jandy user who can help you get your current system back up and running. If not the system I'm using, and the one that is most commonly recommended is the...

Draining is your only real choice for lowering CYA. About the only good thing is at only 10,000 gallons, the water cost won't be that bad. With a CYA of 300, you would be waiting a very long time for CYA to drop to any acceptable level. Sorry about your experience with a SWG system. The Jandy...

If the control unit is still working properly, you could put the IC 40 back in service. It looks like a replacement cell runs about $500 online. But, more importantly you need to take control of managing the proper chemical balance of the pool. The best thing you can do is to spend some time...

I don't know what brand or model SWG you have. But, assuming a Hayward T-15, which would be more than adequate for your 12k pool, a new Hayward brand T-15 cell runs about $450. $450 divided by the five year life you got out of it, makes the cost of chlorine $90 per year. I doubt you will be...

There are really only two ways we recommend for maintaining chlorine levels, liquid chlorine (AKA bleach) and Salt Water Chlorine Generator (SWG). Any powdered or solid form brings with it something you don't want or need. Extra CYA or calcium. Both will cause you to have to drain and refill...

Step one is to get a good test kit. Everything we do here is based on reliable consistent testing. That means you testing your own water. As said there are only two test kits we recommend TF-100 and Taylor K-2006. The TF-100 is the better buy. It has more of the reagents that a pool owner...

You should be able to strain out most of the pollen that lands in the pool. I use hairnets (see link below) in my skimmers and it strains out all but the finest debris. Anything organic that is left in the pool will begin to decay and will use up your free chlorine. You shouldn't need to...

I don't know what water system you are on, but I'm on Marana water and I can drain and refill my 19k pool for less than $150 (plus chemical cost). Surprisingly, water costs in the Tucson area aren't as high as some other places.

Check your valve settings. You are obviously drawing water from the spa and not returning it. I would doubt an algae problem. Unless you have VERY low chlorine level (zero or very near), algae won't grow in cold water.

If you are trying to follow TFP methods you won't be using that chlorine feeder very much.

Fill the pump basket with a hose of a bucket of water, seal it up then quickly start the pump. That will usually help get it to prime.

When the flow drops off, is it sucking air? Check the pump basket. Is it full of water or air? That should tell you if you are looking for a suction leak or a problem on the return side.

Jen, When you order your TF-100 add the SpeedStir to your order. Don't ask why. You can just thank me later. Really, it makes testing so much easier and more accurate. I went my first year without one and now I don't think I could do my testing if it wasn't there.

I have no experience with iron staining, other than a couple of very small stains I had caused by grinding off a bolt near the pool. I got rid of them by just letting a few vitamin C tablets dissolve on them. Maybe others can help you with that issue.

When you add muratic acid to lower the pH you will see that your TA will also come down a bit. As to the CH being a bit high, there isn't much you can do about that, since the only way to lower is to replace high CH water with lower CH water. If You put all your test results, (along with the...

Welcome, So that we can better help you without asking the same questions over and over, it's important that you put all the detail of your pool in your signature. You can see my signature and others for details. We love to help other pool owners learn how to have crystal clear pools with...

Thank you so much for your help chief. So how do I test the CSI and FAS-DPD? There are two kinds of chlorine tests included in th TF-100 kit. One is in the small blue box K-1000. That's an OTO test where you match the color. Calibrated from 0.5 to 5 ppm. The second chlorine test is the...

Adding drops while its mixing is correct. Always add drops until the last drop you add makes no further change in the color, then subtract that drop. In other words, when you think you have your reading, add a drop just to be sure there is no more change. That drop doesn't count unless of...

All your numbers look fine. 7.8 is the top of the normal range for the pH. Youwill bring that down to 7.2 iwhen it goes any higher. All you need do is turn the adjustment on the SWG down a bit and let the FC level come down over time.

Gabe, Welcome to TFP. We have our own methods which are firmly based on good scientific principals. Much of what you may have learned elsewhere may be incompatible or completely at odds with what is practiced here. We try to avoid mystery compounds and magic potions. The TFP method is to...