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:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! If your TA is truly 0, then your pH is down in the 4s. At this point you likely just need to follow their instructions.

Yes DE could help if it is just a slow filter issue.

Your chlorine has certainly lost some strength. But you could tell that by measuring the FC level 30 minutes or so after you add to a specific Target. It should not matter if you have the solar heater running or not.

Ask them what parts of the equipment have calcium in them that they need to protect .... :hammer:

There was one time poured it on them and their friends during a birthday party while all the other parents looked on in horror, not knowing what it was :D And yes it does get pretty cold as it dissolves.

I dump the salt on my kid's heads while they are swimming ... they are always asking me to add more salt, but it just does not need it :LOL:

No it is not required. Just may have to go very big on the SWG to keep the run time shorter. You could switch your motor to a 2 speed and get a lot of the electrical savings too.

:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! That is a good friend! :D Have you ordered up one of the recommended test kits yet? Have to keep you out of the pool store ;) The TF-100 from tftestkits.net is the best value, given the cloudy water adding the XL option would be wise. And the SpeedStir makes the...

:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! ... I recommend the TF-100 from tftestkits.net as the best value, the XL option given the current information, and the SpeedStir if you can swing it as it makes the testing easier and more accurate.

I am going to back-up mguzzy a little bit here. In the past there were certainly discussions about the "super-chlorination" that occurs within the cell itself, and perhaps even proposed that this was the mechanism that allowed the required FC level relative to the CYA level to be lower...

Chemistry prevents algae and cloudy water, not pump run time. You could likely get away with only running for a couple hours to sufficiently mix the chlorine.

:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! One of the first things you will come to realize if you read much around here is that we do NOT trust pool store testing, I think I see that you noticed this and already got one? Which one? Use it and post up the results and forget about Leslie's testing. You really do...

http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/73192-Deep-Cleaning-a-Sand-Filter

You should be seeing a daily improvement in the water clarity. Have you inspected / cleaned your sand?

If you saw algae, then you should really run through the entire .

What is the strength of your chlorine? 1-2 cups may not be sufficient to replace the 2-4ppm of FC loss each day.

:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! Algae is a chemical problem, not a cleaner problem. To maintain a clear pool, just have to have a good test kit (TF-100 is the best value from tftestkits.net) and keep the FC above the minimum for your CYA at all times, according to the . Since you currently have...

What is your CYA? That determines if your FC level is "already fine" according to the . It is safe to swim at MUCH higher FC levels than I think you are currently aware. Swimming is fine up to the SLAM level FC listed in that table above based on your CYA. Check out these videos:

Either way it would only likely be cosmetic. You never did explain how the chemicals were added. Did they both sit on the bottom?

It depends. We can't answer that given the information you provided. Either the dye has been faded, or you have a build-up on the liner.

Was the baking soda mixed in or did it just settle on the bottom? If baking soda just sat on the bottom with poor circulation, then it could have a local very high pH. If the cal-hypo was then added into this same area, the local high pH could interact with the calcium to create local calcium...

It appears that the HTH Extra Super-terrific Awesome Amazing Shock is cal-hypo. Did you add it and the baking soda at the same time? What do you mean by rough? Like sand paper? Or like wrinkled?

Correct. No more pucks because your CYA is already too high. @JamesW, do you know of a way to test the Aquarite control box? Are you keeping the K-2006C? If so, there is nothing else you need to buy right now. The SpeedStir helps with the testing and if you get the SWG going again, then you...

Chlorine is much better than algaecide at killing algae. And algaecide often interferes with the chlorine and our ads products to your pool that you don't want.

Many people use a long length of small PVC pipe as a large "straw". Put in water, put thumb over end, pull out and empty into container.

Oh, and use 10ml of water for the FAS-DPD chlorine test so that each drop is 0.5ppm. That is precise enough and will save you a lot of reagent and counting :D

If you replace the water to lower the CYA as needed, and then don't add any products that add CYA, the CYA will NOT go back up. Given the very low pH and TA and the high CYA, I can only assume you are using trichlor tablets and/or dichlor shock powder to add your FC. That is a no-no ;) Stick...

Just smash it back up, should be fine. Make sure it stays sealed and dry.

For the 10ml water sample, with an expected maintenance level FC, you only need 1 scoop. If it does not turn pink, your FC is 0. You can use the yellow OTO color matching chlorine test (assuming you go the TF-100) to confirm that.

Videos of all the tests. Some of the vials in your kit are a little different, but all the reagents (with the exception of the pH are the same): https://www.youtube.com/user/tf100testkit?feature=results_main