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Please don't shoot the messenger, but if you add a VS pump to the project, you can run 24/7 and not need the timer. I wouldn't consider not running 24/7 at my primary home and 100X that at a part time home. You won't be there to know it needed more filtering or skimming. Run the FC...

*stands corrected* :)

Yes. Ph is valid to 10FC, which you can't test with the block. 🤦‍♂️:ROFLMAO: If you have all the same components, such as the K1515 (regardless of the box it sits in) and the proper CYA / ta / ch / ph tests, we are all on the same page and it's like we are standing beside you to test. We...

The FC side of that block test isn't reliable, or accurate. The test kits come with a k1515 without the box, which will be the primary way to test FC. Once you're a pro, the 'do I have chlorine' test in the block may be good enough that day when you already know you're OK.

It'll be easy peasy lemon squeezy once we get you over the learning curve. And we ride together at every step, for nothing but feels. It's a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself.

Swimming is safe from min to slam. As said above, problematic with a limited FC test. The K1515 is the way to go. :) Also, always round CYA up to the next 10 if it isn't already.

*up to you if you want to piece meal it or start over. :)

The bulk of the initial test kit is all the add on supplies like the CYA tube, the PH block and the vials. Once you have them, the reagents go on sale each spring for $44 and it's much better.

Agreed. We will save you thousands in the long run if we're all on the same page. I was poolstored for well over $1000 a season. Probably $1500. Now I need $44 of reagent refills each season and $200 to $300 to treat a 34k gallon pool. Here's my street cred, on the cheap.

Pool store testing brings us most of our new members Jay. Following pool store advice with said testing brings us most of our HALP ME members. It's up to you if you listen to that almost 2 decades worth of collective wisdom by thousands and thousands and thousands before you...

Get 30 ppm of granular CYA hanging, carrot on a stick like, in front of a working return. Add FC in target range per the using the 30 CYA while it soaks. Use muriatic acid or Borax to get the pH in the 7s if it's not already. Use for both. Post up test results and we'll see about...

You're only draining it back to where it was. You'll be fine. :) Find out where the water table is if you ever need to drain considerably more than the normal operation window.

Hey Shamim and Welcome !!!! In ground or above ground ? Big wrinkles or! bazillion looking like a finger print ? Got pics ?

The 2 are entirely independent of each other and can even be worked on simultaneously. Always before raising the CYA significantly.

Both. It has 2 doohickies. One doohickie is the swg cell and the other is the mineral cartridge which adds copper. It is highly advised to never add copper to the pool. JANDY Aquapure 1400. They are sisters.

The cell can't overcome no CYA. Most of us realize our CYA got low when we see the FC plummet. And we still have 40 or 50 in there. But as the CYA increases, the FC needs to increase proportionately to match it. All lines on this chart are equal for sanitizing. Steer clear of...

You need to be 'the guy'. The sun burns off 4 ppm a day in the peak season. Maybe even more by you in infernoland. Once a week just doesn't cut it.

Tablets are unsustainable as you've seen. If you continue using them, it will continue 'always having algae'. So switch to liquid and learn how to take care of the pool. We'll help, every step of the way. Promise.

These : Liquescent tablets From scratch. Read up and ask away : Download : Purchase : Follow : Witness : And Welcome to TFP. We got you now. :)

It's nothing but bragging rights. Sand filters capture everything far below what the eye can see. You are easily seeing large particles so that's not the problem. It's the constant supply being added that's the problem. :)

Welp. We may bicker about that until the end of time. More RPM is more flow through the filter, which you need. But it's also more mixing so less old water makes it through the filter. 🤷‍♂️ I'm on team low-n-slow for what it's worth.

You likely weren't on the verge of staining where this one bottle mattered. We caution against it's repeated use. It doesn't do what it says so it's twice as bad. Just a waste of funds and harm. Lol.

Whether the foam is soapy (surfactant / polymer) or pond scum-y (killing algae), the cure is the same. Avoid *all* magic potions or 5 in 1 products going forward.

*if any is still trapped in the filter.

One breezy day dumps enough crud that takes days and days to catch. In that time, it was breezy again and it seems like it's the original flakes. It's worse in the spring and fall, where we have seasons.

PoolRX adds copper to your pool. Backwash it all out immediately

You have simple plumbing / lots of flow. I wouldn't worry about the 12 inch recommendation. My 1st pool had the SWG directly 90'd to the heat pump and worked at 800(?) RPMs (it was a while ago so I'm fuzzy, but it was low). 7 years later when I learned it wasn't best practice, it...

Not likely with cloudy water and foaming. Although the foam looks soapy and not pond scum-y to me. How are you chlorinating ?

This pool store nonsense needs to go. They tell everyone to maintain some chlorine. And HEY !!!! It works for tap water so why not ? Welp. The sun is why not. The sun will burn up to 4 ppm a day in the peak season by you. The hot climates may see even more. Nowhere do they...

Nice choice of username. :salut: And Welcome. Do you know the pool temp ? Pucks are slow in cool water and it may be that simple if the UV from the sun increased more than it warmed up.