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A few questions: 1) Since you cleaned the cell, do the plates look clean or corroded around the edges? 2) Do you have any automation to give you a readout of the salt level the IC40 "thinks" is in the water? 3) What is you water temperature? 4) Which titration test kit did you use and are...

Unless you are skilled at splicing cables, be methodical and go very slow. Make certain you've got large enough diameter heat shrink tubing to cover not only the cord but the spliced area. Most heat shrink has a 3:1 shrink ratio, i.e., ¾" diameter will shrink as small as ¼". Also, place the heat...

While this looks bad, it can be repaired. If there is enough excess cord to still reach your power source after removing the damaged section and splicing the two "good" ends together, you can attempt to fix this. Obviously, you must turn off the power to the IC40 before attempting any repair...

OK! You were right! (Sounds like a conversation with my wife.) :oops: Two thumbs up to Pentair warranty service department.:goodjob::goodjob:

The end to the story: After an initial slow response, Pentair stepped up and did the right thing. They finally got back to me (via email) and dispatched a warranty service tech. He showed up this morning. He quickly determined that the IC40 circuitry had "died" and he immediately replaced the...

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Yes, I added a bit of salt when this began. Raised my level from 3200 to 3400ppm. I know the IC40's salinity calculation reads about 4-500ppm low. I finally got a response from Pentair yesterday AM. They're asking for receipts, etc.. They may replace it under warranty. Fingers crossed! BTW, I...

mknauss, appreciate the info on the IC40 salinity generation values. However, my pool salt level is 3400ppm as measured 3 days ago via the Taylor K-1766 kit. Something is still wonky in my SWG. I did notice that the start up sequence seems to take a bit longer than the "normal" 2 minute cycle...

Dirk, appreciate the info on temp sensors. However, the SWG weirdness continues! I replaced the flow sensor with an aftermarket brand. It worked fine for a day. Now the red "Low Salt" LED is back on! The SWG appears to be producing chlorine (bubbles in return water and maintaining FC level) but...

A little techie info for those who care: I discovered that the thermistor built into the flow switch is a negative temperature coefficient (NTC) type. Meaning as the temp rises, the resistance drops. Evidently, the Pentair thermistor is set for 10 kOhms at 77º F. I took the bad flow sensor out...

The saga continues.... Today, I went out to do my daily pool check. I noticed there were NO lights illuminated on the IC-40. I began troubleshooting and discovered the IC-40 transformer fuse had blown. I replaced that fuse, reenergized the panel, and restarted my pool equipment . The IC-40 did...

I did the install myself. The Pentair website doesn't require "professional" install for 2 year warranty. You get an extra year with pro install. I'll try calling but being a holiday weekend with COVID, etc, etc, etc., not confident about reaching anyone. Thanks for the input!

Thanks. I'll order new aftermarket flow switch today. Is there any way to test the thermistor, e.g., with a multimeter?

Thanks for the rapid response! I purchased the IC40 in late August 2018 off Amazon. According to Pentair website, their SWGs have a 2 year warranty when purchased alone. Looks like I'm out of luck for a warranty repair. Guess it's time to try a new flow switch/thermistor. Any issues with...

My Pentair IC40 SWG suddenly started to show the red "Low Salt" warning light two days ago. I checked my salt levels via the Taylor K-1766 kit. Two tests came back with 3400 ppm, so I know the salt level is not low. I checked the plates on the SWG and they did have a small amount of scale on...

You're both right on the money (pun intended) about Pentair. I foolishly believed that keeping all my pool equipment in the same ecological profile would be a good thing. That thought process works until...something breaks. Then you discover the "dirty truth" about planned obsolescence and...

My SWG issue wasn't the flow switch. Got the replacement parts last night and installed the new flow switch in my IC40 this morning. Still no lights or any sign of life. :grrrr:Disconnected the old IC40 and dropped in a new one. Now all is well. :D Wish there was some way to determine what...

I've got a similar problem–our front yard looks like a swiss cheese! (We're also on the east side near Sabino Canyon.) I believe the warm winter and the wetter monsoon season has given us a "bumper crop" of the digging critters this year. Try these for the ground squirrels...

Pentair makes a replacement fuse holder for the IC power supply. If Pentair knows that a part will need replacing they'll produce the kit to do so. Here's an Amazon link...

You're correct that a total enclosure is just a pack rat haven. I've mostly solved the pack rat issue by placing a solar powered landscape light (or two) on my pool equipment pad. It shines down from above at night and illuminates the entire pad very nicely. As you know pack rats are nocturnal...

Solar shade fabric is really just a permeable woven cloth-like fabric for shielding vegetables and tender plants from the sun. It is available at most big box stores, i.e., Lowe's or Home Depot, in their garden section. It is good enough to provide shade but still lets light through (about a...

Yeah, you're absolutely right. I'm taking an idea for a DIY cover from this website–cobbling together some 1" Sched 40 pipe and solar shade fabric to cover most of my equipment pad but be hinged and movable for maintenance. The cover will be temporary until the tree I planted nearby gets tall...

JoyfulNoise & Dirk, you both make good points about SWG use and life cycle. My SWG is set up to run with my in-floor cleaners. My pool sits in full sun all day here in Tucson so I keep my CYA at 70-80 ppm and my FC about 4 ppm. Over the past 4 years I've experimented with VS pump speeds, SWG run...

Thanks for the info. The current price on Amazon for IC40 is $585 and the IC60 is $730. According to Pentair an IC40 produces 1.4 lbs of Cl per 24 hours and an IC60 produces 2.0 lbs. $145 for .6 lbs/day of Cl production seems like a good ROI. However, if the electronics--not the plates'...

Thanks for the idea. I did a Chlorinator diagnostics and a full system self-test: it "passed". Unfortunately, I do not believe the test on the ET panel is valid when there is an IntellipH in the loop. My IntellipH panel controls all the functions of the IC40 not the ET panel. Gonna order a...

I disconnect the IC40 when the water temp gets below 65ºF so, obviously, I don't run it all year long. But taking an educated guess that I average 8 months of the year running it at 70% about 8 hours per day, I bet there's about 7,000 hours of chlorine production on the IC40 in 5 years ((8...

Unfortunately, no. I reset the power at the breaker and restarted the system but the IC40 is completely blank. The IntellipH panel shows a red light so I know power is getting to the IC40 but no lights on IC40 panel. :(

I noticed this morning that my IC40 had no lights on the panel. I checked the fuse on my Intellichlor Power Center (I have the separate transformer) and it was blown. After replacing the fuse, I powered the system up and the IC40 began to do its self-test (red/green lights cycling). After the...

I, too, am going into year 5 on my IC-40. Mine also takes about 3-4 minutes to finish the start-up cycle. As I recall it has always taken a bit longer than I thought it should but I never timed it until now! Hope mine isn't dying this season!

What size are your pools (total)? Do you have only one filtration system? If so, why do you have two chlorinators? The rule of thumb around here is the SWCG should be rated for twice your pools' volume, e.g., and IC40 is good up about 20,000 gallons. An IC60 should be good up 30,000 gallons...