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As long as you have chlorine being produced, sometimes it's best to just walk away.

FWIW, I can't see into my cell very well after some 4 seasons. Not something I purposefully analyzed when I first got it, but the clear plastic seems hazy now and difficult to see through. Other than water rushing through when I first crank it up, I don't see much. I wonder if the last...

Good question. Many builders seem to frown on it for some reason, using decking materials or corrosion as an excuse, but I don't think they really grasp the chemistry. Regardless, an SWG is the way to go. I switched a few years ago and am very pleased. You will be too. Welcome to TFP! :wave:

PCB (Printed Circuit Board) adapter is used to linked the two or more devices for a purpose. Below is another thread about the same subject. UPDATE! RJ60+ showing 'CELL CONNECTION' message

A bit early to tell. Try rubbing a chlorine tablet on the stain (organic). If that doesn't work, try Vitamin C tablets (iron). After that, if you have some dry acid laying around (i.e. pH Down) you can try that as well (copper).

Not sure really. When mine is on it always says RJ-something (I don't recall if it's model specific) on the main menu. Now I'm curious to check when I get home. Ha.

Alex, I'm going through some older threads and see you never received a reply. :( Did you get the cord thing worked out?

This one. https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_Salt_Systems_Determine_Salinity

I'll try to find it. It has several SWG manufacture listed (but not Circupool) and discussed salt sensors/readings specifically. At the top of the page, it was highlighted in yellow to indicate the page was basically still in draft form and not able to be searched.

@lightmaster, below is the reply I received from DSP: Question: "How do the RJ-Series determine (sense) the salinity level?" I don't think they have a stand-alone salt sensor do they? I was under the impression they were much like the Hayward Aquarites in that between water temp and other...

@lightmaster, FYI ... I sent a message over to DSP. I'm curious about a couple things and their reply may be valuable to some of our Wiki articles as well. Once I hear back and let you know.

I think he just made-up that word. :poke:

Good morning. Mine has been doing the same for a couple seasons now. But unlike your situation, I do see some occasional scale, so I do a careful manual cleaning with a wooden stick before doing a mild acid bath. That seems to help. My K-1766 testing never matches the module's salt read-out...

Welcome to TFP! :wave: If the cost is about the same, almost always go bigger. It's less work on the SWG cell itself. Other than that, Circupool has been quite popular, so it's just a matter of deciding which model you like the most based on its features and setting. Happy shopping!

The best place to start is by using the - Effects of Adding section. There you will get a good baseline to start with for anticipated FC output based on % and runtime settings.

Well, I suppose budget may come into play for some. Our pool is just under 18K and we have the RJ-45. It's been doing well for us. If money isn't a factor, I suppose you can always go bigger.

As I think about your situation a bit more, your cell "should" be off or throwing a low salt error if you have no salt in the pool (yet). If that's true, I find it unlikely the SWG has anything to do with the flakes. However I wonder if perhaps running the heater for a bit with a lower CSI may...

Welcome to the world of salt. We have thousands of members in the southwest who are SWG owners, so you are not alone. Yes, the CH is an issue, especially after about 12 months, but by keeping the CSI level on the low end it helps tremendously to prevent scale build up in the cell. But a couple...

The TFP article below is a good starting point. After that, each pool is a bit different. I had a leak in a return jet, so I'll place my experiences below as well in case it helps. https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/leak-detection/...

That would be unfortunate. I dealt with that last year as well. If you are adding salt and stabilizer on a consistent basis, that will need to be resolved. But in general, my module readings have varied from the K-1766 testing by anywhere from 200 - 1100 ppm. Quite a variance. Like tossing...

You may not be imagining things. I installed my RJ-45 in Apr 2020 and have questioned its performance from time to time. After reviewing various aspects of the cell, module, and my water chemistry, I eventually determined my cell was functioning. Perhaps I was not seeing "pristine" FC...

That might have been a typo. Let me check with my editing department. :)

My cell and module have remained outside and in-place since I got mine. Did fine through the 20201 (I mean 2021) freeze. Now I can sit back and watch the pesky fly's get wiped out by the freeze. Stay warm!

You're getting close to that temp where it just stops. Sure, you can turn it off and just add liquid chlorine periodically as needed. In chilly water you won't need to add very much.

At some point the water may get too cold for the cell to produce chlorine. At that point you have the option to just leave it there and turn it off or remove the cell completely and insert a dummy cell. Totally up to you. Just be sure to have some liquid chlorine around to add on occasion as...

Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: That's your salt cell, and the white build up could be calcium scale. It should be cleaned. It would also help to know more about your system and water chemistry to help you try to prevent this from happening in the future. For now though, remove the cell...

FYI https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Electrical_Bonding

Hello Mark. Not sure you'll get a reply from that old thread, so we broke your question off to its own. To help clarify your situation, can you post some pics of your pool and equipment pad? The more details we know about your situation the better.

I had my SWG off for several days while I attended to some plumbing repairs. When it was time to power-up the SWG and get my system running again, I encountered the stuck power light and "Cell Connection" in the display that others experienced as noted HERE, HERE, and HERE. So this is a known...

We're about to get hit with our first cold snap of teh season, so that should lower your water temps quite a bit and reduce FC consumption. Be mindful of your CYA level and using tabs. If it's elevated, just use liquid chlorine. You should only have to add it once every 3-4 days or so.