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Running a SWG with extremely low CYA is basically the same as manually adding liquid chlorine daily. Chlorine levels are going to have much larger swings due to just about anything imaginable...sun, clouds, bather load, cover or not, rainstorm, temperature, etc. SWG output will likely need to be...

I'll second that. We kept our solar cover on probably 20 hours through April and early May, and when I initially got the SWG running, it was at 10%. 2-3 weeks ago, we just left the cover off permanently because day/night temps are high enough for us to easily maintain warm water, and I had to...

I think many on here would recommend just aiming for a FC level around 6-7 if your CYA is around 70. That way you never dip too low, and if you have 30 kids show up, there is plenty to handle the load.

Yeah, my guesstimate is right around 16k-17k gallons. One of my annoyances with the IC40 is the limited choices in output...I can either do 2,4,6,8,10% or 20,40,60,80,100%. From what I can tell, no way to do something else, like 50%, so I have been trying to adjust my run time accordingly.

For what it is worth, my CYA is at 50, my IC40 is running at 40% for 18-20 hours per day, water temp is 90, and it is not really keeping up. I had to pour in a gallon of bleach to bump it up quickly. I ordered a 4lb jug of CYA off Amazon, and going to shoot for CYA of 70 and see if that helps.

I'll toss another bag in. I think the water tastes very salty, and I am not loving it. Gotta admit, I far prefer non-salt water.

The cell is wired correctly. Both the heater and the IC40 are wired to the load side of the pump relay. When pump is on, IC40 and heater are hot. There was no communication cable included, nor was there any indication that this was necessary or required. The installation of the Intellichlor...

The only info I find in the manual says that "chlorine efficiency is reduced" with low salt...and my interpretation is the unit is still working just fine since the salt levels are ok.

Another question...I dont particularly care what the light shows, prefer to go off my test kit. Is the unit still producing chlorine? Or is that disabled when the unit thinks there is not enough salt?

I installed it. When I first installed it, I powered it up Sunday afternoon, and red light went solid...no surprise because I had not added salt. I unplugged it, added salt, waited 24 hours, tested it with the Taylor kit, got 3200 ppm reading, and then plugged the cell back in Tuesday...

Taylor test kit shows 3200 ppm, water temp 91 degrees, chlorine levels and pH are good. IC40 shows low salt (red light). It is two days old...

Aim low and add more gradually. I added 8 bags @ 40lbs each, total 320 lbs and my salt levels went from 400 ppm to 3000 ppm in 16,000ish gallons.

This look right? Nevermind, not finding it online at HD, will swing by

Seems like Clorox salt is not ideal...what brand(s) are good? Walmart, HD, Lowes, and Sams are all close, and we also have a Fox pools I drive by every day.

Thank you, that helps. And yeah, I read that thread, lot of good info.

LOL, i figured out part of the problem. I was searching "Intellicenter", but "Intellitouch" seems to be what they all use. I was confused.

Where can you buy the IntelliCenter? Doesn't seem to be on Amazon

The EasyTouch with SCG (IC40 cell included) is $1285 on Amazon, the standalone Intellichlor IC40 plus power center is $1k. Probably just go with the entire new EasyTouch and sell my original one.

I built our pool last year, and went with the Pentair Easy Touch 4, non-salt version. I have since decided to add SWG, Intellichlor IC40, and trying to decide which option. 1. Buy IC40 cell and power center 2. Buy Easy Touch 4, salt version, and then sell the one I have now 3. Buy new...