Search results

I guess the underlying question is why you would want to run at 100%

Never mind. I re-read the manual and found out how to do it.

This morning I turned the setting to super chlorinate for a few hours. When I turned it back to Auto, the display was showing centigrade instead of fahrenheit degrees and the salt setting was also a metric reading instead of ppm. The manual shows how to change from F to C but not the other way...

Last season was paying $5.99 for a bag of Diamond Crystal salt. Went to get a bag today and it was $7.49, a 25% increase in just a few months!

I am not an expert but I suggest raising the FC, lowering the pH and salt level. What is your combined CL level?

Thanks for replies. Seems to be working again.

OK I did the off check and back to auto check. In the off position it shows 32.1 volts, 0 amps and 0 salt. Back on Auto it reads 26.6 volts and 5.76 amps and 2900 salt. Should I continue with the off for a minute and back on?

A green light indicates that it is generating, but scrolling through the diagnostics it is showing 31.9 volts and 0 amps. Also the instantaneous salt level indicates 0. The average reading is 2800

I have an Aquarite but with a T15 cell, also with a 14000 gallon pool. I maintain the salt between 2900 and 3200. 3900 seems high.

check salt is just a timer to remind you to check the cell. What is your salt level?

You show your pool as 38K gallons. The T-15 cell is rated at up to 40K so is probably undersized for your pool especially considering your geographic area.

I don't know what controller you have, but it is probably showing an average reading. So it may take a couple of days for the average to reflect the actual salt level. My Aquarite has an instantaneous reading by toggling through the diagnostic settings.

Okay, youtube to the rescue. Apparently scale buildup is pretty obvious, so I guess I don't have any.

The inspect cell light came on yesterday so I consulted the manual which said to remove the cell and inspect the plates for debris or scale. Well, I removed the cell but cant see anything except the plastic grill on each end which I assume are to catch large debris. Even with a flashlight I...

I just leave the SWG on and turn the filter to backwash. The flow switch will temporarily turn of the SWG. No problem for a short time. Then switch the filter back to filter. The pump should be off when switching the filter setting.

Jim R Thanks, I get it now.

What is the component that show 220v input with a 12 v output

Thanks

My Hayward generator can generate 1.47 pounds of chlorine per day. I assume this is 24 hours at 100%. How can this be translated to ppm at various % and run time? I thought I saw something on the app but now can't find it.

I used 400 lbs of Chlorox recently when I refilled my pool. Just brushed it around until dissolved. No stains.

The unit will not generate if the pump is off, because of the flow switch. The reason to have a timer controlling it is in case the flow switch fails.

I went through the company website, and it looks fairly amateurish to me. The device appears to be a good one, but I think Mr. Tucker needs to license the technology to other companies like Pentair and Hayward, who could effectively market it and probably reduce the unit cost.