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I looked at the unit on line, and this is new to the industry, I guess. It appears that they are coming up with ways where you have to purchase the replacment, etc. If you can not empty the system, then operate the cell only. Eventually the metals should dissolve (I assume), if that is the...

If the system needs the cartridge to operate with the salt system, then I would most definitely empty the cartridge out. The cartridge should have the metals inside. Short term, I do not believe this will do any harm. I used mine for 6 months and then left it empty when I switched to liquid...

You can leave the cartridge empty in the plumbing, as this will do no harm. However, how do you have a Salt Pool, which should come with an SWG and board, and still have a Nature 2 system, which contains metals. I had the frog at one point, but removed the system, and placed a chlorinator in...

Purchase a Taylor Test kit and do not rely on the board. It is a running average. Mine always runs high on the board, about 400 ppm higher than what I am testing. Because of testing error, I keep my level in between the minimum and maximum recommended. Even Hayward could not answer how the...

Yes, Wal-Mart carries Morton Pool Salt for a very reasonable price, at least in NJ. About $7 a bag. Use Pool Math to determine how much to add. It is highly suggested you add 70%-80% of what Pool Math States. Put in the shallow end and brush slowly all over the pool to mix. You do not want a...

The salt will only be corrosive if it gets behind the liner. Chlorine alone is corrosive as well if behind the liner. I have had 2 small tears in my liner (less than 1" long) and right away within days I can see the stains on the liner from the galvanized steel walls (patched up quickly). Very...

You are probably high on salt and it is best to confirm using an independent test. Once the strips are finished, I will only work with the Taylor kit as the results are off. You may be high. Report back to see if draining may be necessary.

James: Can you please explain the difference? I tried to update the average and the figure kept going higher and higher, all the way to 3,500 and will vary between 3,400 and 3,500. My readings are about 3,200. Even when I use the strips vs. the Taylor K-1766, I could be off as much as 400-500...

What you can do is add salt to your pool and bring to 2,000 ppm. Then see if she notices any difference. Keep adding one bag weekly and increasing the levels until you hit your 3,200 target. Then, see if she notices any difference. After conversion, the first time I dove in, right away I noticed...

This pump run time is fine once the SLAM is complete. During the SLAM process, the pump will need to run 24/7 until you pass the OCLT.

You will need to add enough liquid chlorine to SLAM the pool and test every few hours to make sure you are holding chlorine (first and foremost). Once you pass the OCLT (Overnight Test), then you can turn your cell back on. How many lbs. of chlorine does your cell produce in a 24 hour period? At...

To cut down on your pump run time, you may want to supplement your SWG with liquid chlorine. You can get into a schedule of adding every other day, or twice a week, but you will burn more chlorine this way. Running the pump over a certain amount of hours is just wasting electricity. The savings...

Meanwhile, I would suggest you dose your pool with liquid chlorine. In addition, please add your signature. My reading is way off (at least 400-600) from actual cell. Even Hayward customer service stated that it could be this much off (reading higher). Maybe someone else will chime in will...

You have to manually reset the "inspect cell" light. It is like having an oil change and the service reminder will need to be reset. Once reset, if you are producing chlorine, then you are fine. I would have not cleaned the cell if it did not need it. I have reset my reminder at least twice...

Dirty Rat: By far, the most predictable way of dosing a pool, at least for me was the liquid chlorine. Pump ran early morning for one hour, I dosed daily, knew how much, when, why, where. Not as convenient as the SWG, which I have now, but again very predictable. The total cost was only $225...

Thanks Jason. The issue is that it keeps going up every time I tried. Hayward responded, but they were not very helpful. I will leave alone and test salt level every 2 weeks instead of monthly now just to ensure the correct levels. Also will check the board to make sure not low on salt or SWG...

Is the quote also for the control board? The 940 is the T-15 cell. Under $500 and it just swaps out. Assuming there is nothing wrong with the board.

Miles: Inspect the cell first, and even with a flashlight for deposits. No need to dump MA in the cell if it does not need cleaning. As Marty stated, maintain your CSI and you may never have to clean your cell. What PING is referring to is probably a # 12 plug (winter plug) as I had 10 of them...

My SWG was reading 3,100 for a while. Then, reading 3,000. Monthly I test for salt using the Taylor K-1766, and tested 2,400-2,600 (Did test 3X) as I was not sure what was going on. Then the test strips that came with the unit tested at 2,590. Therefore, I was off by 400. I added one bag at a...

I like it! - - - Updated - - - Three items come to mind. 1) Are you 100% certain of the size of your pool? 2) Have you checked the Julian date on the bleach? Were did you purchase it, and where is it stored? 3) The most important question. Who is testing your water? If you are, please...

Forget the pool company as they are taking a wild guess. If this was my cell, I would send this picture directly to Hayward Customer service. They are pretty good at getting back to you with the possible cause. Maybe someone else will chime in if they had a similar experience. My cell is about a...

Hard to tell as maybe this is internal corrosion. Have you kept up with balancing your water? Do you also clean the cell, if necessary? I have only had my cell for a year and I try to keep my PH on the lower range to prevent scale on the cells. Only time will tell. Also, how long have you had...

Even though I take care of my own pool and am pretty handy, we can not discount the "true professional" who actually knows what they are doing regarding taking care of a pool and a homeowners needs. Everyone has to consider what truly is worth spending a few $$$ on and what is not. I have some...

You will need to be a little more specific on this one, and in addition not having one of the recommended test kits is why you are having such a difficult time. Seriously get rid of your "pool professional". Who ever replaced your sand should have provided you a receipt as well and if he added...

I find the test strips to be 200-400 ppm off than the reading on the SWG board and Taylor reagents form the salt kit. You mentioned that your "water level dropped half full". Does this mean you lost water from backwashing? If so, your salt levels have definitely dropped. Also, your CYA levels...

Can you please add your signature. What type of filter? If sand, maybe a deep cleaning will help. You could have also had a slight clog on the suction side throwing everything off. I use skimmer socks which help a lot in picking up debris and keeping them in the basket. What is your starting...

Sorry to hear about your troubles. I am not the foremost expert, but meanwhile you should switch over to liquid chlorine until you figure out the issues. It is at all possible that your salt cell is contributing to these problems? Maybe someone with a little more experience will chime in. - - -...

Maria: Sorry to hear about your troubles. Both Pentair and Hayward make dummy pipes in where you can remove the salt cell, at least for the season or however it takes you to figure out the issue with the control board. Your next step would be liquid chlorine, done on a daily basis. If you want...

My original wiring for the timer was done during the pool build. The subsequent was done to add the SWG. I actually have a shut off switch at the pump for everything, and a separate one for the light. Everything, of course leads to the fuse box. I doubt your schematic or mine is wrong in nature.

The SWG unit is after the filter and any heater that you have. The system can be mounted either horizontal or vertical. Each unit is different, but the SWG requires a straight run of certain length (check the manual) to function properly. There is also a flow switch (either separate or built...