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So I’m trying to fully convert over from my TF tackle box to the pro, great to know the speedstir fits. Is there anything else that won’t fit, like does the pro case come with its own laminated maintenance instruction card or do I need to order that, will all my old TF-100 mixing vials and test...

The new case seems more convenient, is there confirmation from users that the Talor speedstir won’t fit?

I’m sure some of you have gone through this change, as I’m about to order my re-fill kit, I’m tempted to include an order for a Pro case as it looks to organize much better. I have an older Tf-Testkit that comes with the tackle box, will all of the components from my older kit fit in the Pro...

ok nice to know I’m not alone. I would be surprised if it operates at 100% when it gives the low salt message, I’m only saying that because I saw my chlorine level drop by a few % points, I set it to 100% right now to be sure but I’m quite certain that’s the case as I used the shock option and...

No that’s while it is set to a T-15.

We’re you referring to the cell serial # , I attached it in case along with my diagnostics on the cell, this time it dipped to 2000PPM but the previous time it was 2900PPM and I did the instant salt save so it’s temporarily working but usually doesn’t last.

My original one lasted a good 8 years but unfortunately this one lasted only 3.5. I see salt pool store has knock off ones for a 1/3 of the price but I see all the old threads warning people to stay clear.

Dang, I just tried changing the cell type on my AquaLogic and it only gives me an option between a T-Cell-15 and T-Cell-5, no T-Cell-9. When I try putting it on 5 it reports my salt much higher and says high salt and doesn’t operate. Right now my T-Cell-15 is operating at 62% in terms of being...

Wow, I didn’t even know that was an option. So you are saying that T-9 and T-5 have different minimum salt requirements to operate? If that works would I need to double the % or does it output based on it being a T-15 still? With the current low salt warning, it’s not clear to me at what level...

At 75% I was still okay because I would still fall within the range of recommended amount as I would be at 3600PPM to get a reading of 2900PPM. But now, even though I’m at 3600PPM, my reading is 2600PPm, which would mean Inwould need to bump up my salt to 3800PPM, which is above the recommended...

Wait, what? 5mins, ok seriously mine has always turned off after like 30 seconds or so, I’ve had it for about 12 years and it’s always been like that.

Just to provide feedback, I had consistent results with letting the sample reach room temperature as right now my pool water is very cold. Also with room temperature I was able to achieve a more salmon like color like in the YouTube video, but after the sample settled I did lose the color...

I agree completely! and then it says if you went too far, the color will be brown and that’s what I feel my color changed resembled more compared to salmon. In your case you say it actually changed to Salmon, so at least you know that is what you are looking for, in my case it will go from the...

Still hoping someone can answer me on the color :) I should also mention my water is freezing in case temp plays a part in inaccurate testing.

Jim, Based on this photo, is this the pink colour I should be looking for?

Hey Jim, That’s my issue, I keep adding drops until it gets to be milky and yes it flashes that pinkish salmon for a second but then it all goes back to being that milkish color and then it ends up going that dark red like the picture I attached which I understand means I’ve put too much. Yet...

So based on pool store test I should be around 1200PPM, which is typical after I open my pool after the winter. I’m struggling to use the K-1766, in following the directions of the kit and I fill to the 10nl mark, I add my one drop of R-0630 to turn the sample yellow and I’m adding the R-0718...

Just opening my pool here after being close for the winter. Is there any issue if I add my salt now at the same time as the slam? I notice a lot of people. Say to do it after but I just want to be able to flip on my SWG once I pass the overnight test. 2nd, my pool opened with 0 CYA, based on...

Understood but there should be consistency between the chart and the app. They both use the same language, being “Target”, so chart refers to Min 3 FC and Target 5 FC. App says “Target” 3 <-> 10.

the chart has another tab for SWG, and that’s where it shows the CYA of 70 with a min of 3 and max of 5 but my issue is that the Pool Math App shows a max of 10 as allowable, and it’s specified in the tool that in using a SWG.

Thanks for the chart, I realize why I’m targeting so high now. I rely more on the Pool Math app (results linked to my profile) and the Pool Match app shows that the recommended FC is between 3 and 10. While the chart you linked shows a min of 3 and a max of 5. Why does the pool calculator...

I have my SWG outputting Chlorine at 55% and I’m currently sitting a FC of 10 and a CYA of 70. so I’m right at the maximum recommended limit, any issue with keeping it there? Thanks.

I added the AA based products I had this weekend, stuff didn’t lift off but I noticed when I scrubbed it that an extremely slight amount of the color of the rust rubbed off in certain areas, the spot remained but it lightened ever so slightly. I don’t know if this is helpful or not, although I...

Just an update, I placed an AA type product in a sock and it didn’t lift any of the dirt anywhere, although a scotch brite was able to get rid of chunky parts, it didn’t do zilch to the surface area, even with scrubbing. I bought a no name Metal out product, I placed my skimmer basket which had...

How effective would those chemicals be done n a balanced pool, it didn’t mention lowering FC.

I have what’s most likely iron based stains from iron fence welding that occurred right near the pool. move attached pictures of the product from my local store, it uses the name metal out but it’s not the same metal out that people generally refer to here.

I’m just trying some local store product callled Metal Out, but I’m questioning the fact that it doesn’t have any special instructions, it just tells you how much to add to your pool. could this be correct? I’ve often read that FC=0 and PH=7.2 and to to keep your filter on re-circulate. so...

How do I seal it if the liner is still good? Pool is about 12 years old

If it’s due to the wall like you mentioned, would that wall have to replaced when changing the liner? aren’t these walls supposed to be rust proof?

I’ve tried those 3M scotchbrite pads, like the kind you scrub a pan with and no luck at all, I even tried something a little more abrasive and it didn’t help, that’s why I’m open to the pumice stone if you think it will work. The light and that build up only started after the last time the...