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Hi all, I’m thinking I’m of changing to a cartridge filter from my current sand filter. Any recommendations would be apprecited with regard to size, brand, etc. My pool is 15000 gallons

I have the same pump. Use a rubber "dead blow" mallet to remove and replace the lid. Couple of strikes with the mallet on the ears of the lid do the trick. Dont use a hammer. Any box store will have a dead blow hammer. EDIT: Yes my sig says I have a Hayward pump, but I haven't changed my sig in...

I agree. If it's not leaking, don't mess with it. Leave the poly alone. It's fine the way it is. I'd replace the pump with a 2 speed. Variable speed pumps are expensive and the electric rates in a Massachusetts are cheap enough that you wouldn't get the return on investment. I have a 2 speed...

^^^^ This x100

I've also seen discussed the possibility that time (i.e. brush and armature wear) will cause more line noise. So that's a possibility. The NEC only updated the code in 2014 to require a hard wired pump to have a GFCI breaker. Im guessing how this went was: They were sitting around updating the...

No amount of rewire, new GFCI breakers, new motors, etc, will fix this issue. Look around the net at professional sparky sights. They all see this problem with VSP. A Siemens breaker MIGHT fix it for a bit. My understanding is that the Siemens breaker trips at 6mA difference, the others are 3-4...

That's the proper fix. However, the Fernco should be ok.

They should have used a shielded no-hub coupling. Basically the same thing, but with a metal band around it. Ideally, a pvc repair coupling would have been the ideal thing to use. Is the pipe already buried?

Why cant you use the existing wiring and breaker? It's just a pump swap out, right?

Ok, you posted before I did. Let me see if I am Google up a manual.

Take a picture of the wiring diagram for the motor. Also, give us the make amd model for the timer. If we had that, I'm sure there is a manual online somewhere. From the timer picture, it's hard to tell what's the common, high, and low wires.

Yea, I didnt notice that. Thats 12 AWG wire (presumably a 20 breaker on the other end). Thats only 4800 watts to that panel with a pump, blower, pool light, ozonator, and outlet. That may not be the GFCI trip issue in the end, but thats not enough power out there. At 80 feet on 12 AWG wire on...

My 2 speed on low does that too. not a big deal

If they've replaced the gfci breaker, it's not the breaker. A dipole gfci breaker is a PITA. If there's no neutral, as some one said earlier, it compares both hot leads. The only thing that was wrong in the explanation is that it compares current, not voltage. If there is a 6 mAmp difference...

I realize some people call the white neutral wire the "common", but when talking about a 2 speed motor, common is the correct term for the leg that supplies power to both windings. Thats the term used on schematics. It also makes a difference if you use automation to control the pump. The...

Yup, thats correct. Line 1 is the common and goes on terminal 1. Line 2 feeds power to the switch (black wire on the switch). Yellow puts power on the high speed windings (terminal 2), White puts power on the low speed windings (terminal 3/4).

For 100 amp service to the easy touch, 100 amp breaker in the main, then run #3 copper or #2 aluminum out to the ET box. You can run #6 copper for the ground. I'd use 2" conduit. Easier to pull the wires. Where is you main panel located? Are you going to get a sparky to do this or you going to...

They sell a 15' extension cable for the Intellichlor. But the downside is that it only gives you 30' total feet so it might be really close if your truly 30' away. It costs ~$120. However, if your a little less than 30', it should work. Also remember, if you mount the ET box away from the...

LOL. Yea, the $400 for the SL I thought was a bit steep. I got it basically so my wife could turn the heat on when she was out and about. Plus my ET box is in a spot that makes it a bear to get back to and mess with. The added benefit was the easier programming on the PC. If I'd have known the...

What type of heater is it? Normally when you set up the heater to run off the ET box, you set the heater up to ONLY work with the ET. The heat setting on the heater is disabled and it uses the water temp sensor on the ET box. You shouldnt use the heater control pad at all.

I have an Easy Touch 4 with an IC-40. The IC-40 power supply is built in. I also control my Hayward gas heater, and my 2 speed Pentair pump with the ET as well. I recently installed a Screen Logic add on so i can control the pool off my iPhone. My PC inside the house also has the screen logic...

Maybe not 5-6 wraps, but at least a couple, then the paste. And yes, don't over tighten. But I stand by mine and Richards recommendation. How would you use an o ring union there? And no silicone on a male adapter. Licensed plumber for 32 years here.

Check to see if the impeller melted. Lots of plastic down there. If you have melted plastic parts, it could have locked everthing up and is not allowed the motor to turn. I'd take the motor off the pump basket and look at the impeller.

^^^ This Exactly what i'd do. For the PVC glue, get the can of Otay Rain or Shine blue stuff if they have it. If not, get the Otay heavy duty clear. Also, a small can of primer. Like Richard said, teflon tape followed by some teflon pipe sealer on the male adaptor. Dont put any tape or dope on...

Yes, I'm using unions for sure

That's where I was leaning. I just wanted to make sure a 24" would work properly with the pump on low speed.

Looking to replace my old sand filter. Currently have a Hayward 18". Pump is a Pentair 2 speed 1HP. 14000 gallon pool. Was looking at either a 22" or 24" for a replacement. Any advice would be appreciated.

Like Mark said, I can put the mutiport on recirculate and bypass the filter to see if the small filter is the issue. If it is the filter, a larger might help to decrease the total head. I like the features a multiport and sand filter give me, so a cartridge filter is not really an option for me.

I can definatley re-plumb the pad and make it a bit better I think. It's a mix of 2" and 1.5". Maybe if I change it all to 2 inch, move the generator to better position, optimize the bypass a bit better and increase the filter size I can squeeze out 2-3 more gpm. What size sand filter would you...