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Cheers. Have ordered a glycerine filled one. I tend to run the pool all year. But the last one failed in the summer after a few months.

how long do yours last? I get very limited life (less than a year) out of the cheap ones I buy. Should I be getting a branded one for greater longevity?

i thought that might be the explanation!

Yes I thought that after adding my post. Another factor is ambient temperature and duration of pool use in the year. As day/night temperatures drop, a bigger heater is needed to maintain temperature Noting the above, I assume your measurement of size is 35,000 is gallons rather than litres?

I’d look at the efficiency of the heater as well. There’s quite a range. Depending on how close to your house you can also use your central heating boiler to heat the pool. That’s what I do.

Sorry really bad pics, can’t read the labels!

This is the pump in situ

I seem to be pretty rubbish at having success when following instructions that involve something water or air tight. I can’t work out what I’ve done wrong with the sta pump and volute (I assume this is the wet bit). But the two no longer go together happily enough to be completely leak free. I...

Thank you! I think that means I have auto bleed on it?! I must admit I’ve never knowingly bled it and it usually purges air eventually. Never had that much air in it though.

Thanks JamesW you found some pics I couldn’t find! Although that’s my spare pump I’ve got a slightly different one on there at the moment. I tried to replace the pump/motor seal as had a very small leak but ended up with a big leak with the new seal and couldn’t fix it, so I took the starite...

I have a photo of the pump manufacture label but can’t find it. Will have to get another in light

Here’s a photo of the label. It’s so old I don’t think it’s listed anywhere any more!!

Hey - thank you I’m not sure I have a bleed valve. It’s a lacron sand filter. Or it I have one I’m not sure where it is or what it looks like. It has a viewing glass on the top and I can see the air in that. Pool covered so not noticed return air. Will need to check. I don’t think I have a...

Hi all I hope you’re all good. I don’t close the pool over winter, just run the pump a few hours a day. stupily though I let the level drop a bit low without keeping too much of an eye on things. It didn’t drop below the skimmer but the suction meant the level wasn’t enough to feed enough...

So an update. My new heating method is installed and working nicely and fully automated from my phone. The setup is as follows: Bowman titanium heat exchanger rated at 76kw. (You can get cupro nickel ones at slightly cheaper but figured for the faff plus double spend if it fails that I’d go...

Thank you- there seem to be some specifically designed heat exchangers for pools. The same (or similar) as what go into certikin genie heaters. They are Either cupro-nickel or titanium. I think I’ll go for the latter.

later this summer I plan to remove my now defunct mastertemp boiler and replace it with a heat exchanger that is powered by my house gas boiler. Now my pool pad is about 1m from the outside wall of the house, down one side, so this means I don’t need to have a long run of pipes outside to...

I can’t help with vari speed pump recommendations I’m afraid as I have a single speed one - a sta-rite I think which has been reliable to date. I’ve no idea why it is tripping but have you tried troubleshooting e.g. taking it apart after tripping - is there water leaking into the motor...

I know best practice is after the heater but How bad is this in practice if your pump is always set to run when the swcg is running plus a bit of pump overrun when the swcg turns off. I had seen somewhere in here I think that the after heater is based on puck feeders that are acidic and so bad...

Looking at getting a new low power 0.5hp ish pump. What’s the thinking on Certikin ones that have the outlet off centre? HGS range I think - a nearly new one has come up for sale and considering it. Clearly a pain to need to re do the plumbing- why don’t they make all pumps with the same...

Thanks MAS.

I’m wondering if I’ve cracked the housing now. So need to take the wet end off to get a proper look at it. When reconnecting the plumbing do you put ptfe tape on the threads of the threads being inserted in to the pump unions?

Thanks Pat. It’s the Reassembly that I think I’m struggling with. Couldn’t see the video in that series for that.

Thanks Pat. I took things apart again and tried tapping/hitting the motor towards the wet end and tapping round the clamp as I was doing it up. It’s a sta-rite 5P2RC-1B

Soo.. I replaced the clamp o ring and the diffuser o ring. Now although the o ring looks like it fits better, the pump leaks something chronic- not masses of water coming out other than drips however you can feel the air rushing in around the clamp and the filter glass bubbles never purge. Any...

Presumably you see the leak before it kills your pump… I had a small leak that I think but am not certain is from the clamp o-ring. So i put a good layer of silicone grease on to see if the leak stops. If it does I’m just wondering if I don’t see any more evidence of leaking then I should be ok...

Just wondering do shaft seals have a typical service life / Is taking the pump apart to check the shaft seal something that should be done regularly?

Thanks Pat. It’s really hard to tell where the leak is. there was some white corrosion on the nuts that hold the implellar housing but then it didn’t seem wet and there is similar corrosion all over the motor housing. The metal band was wet so hoping that the problem was simply the clamp o...

So I went ahead and took the motor off, leaving the wet end in situ. I didn’t really know how much water was going to drain out so I used the wet vac to take the water out of the pump basket. it seems that the last time the pump was serviced the seal between the wet end and the dry end inside...