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It should not leak at all. I have one that is 4 years old that I installed myself and it works just fine. Take it apart by unscrewing the screws and check the rubber o-ring to see if it's seated correctly. I had a similar issue with a brand new Jandy valve. The o-ring was pinched in a...

That might be a good idea just so you're starting with a clean pool and a clean filter again with no green algae covering the grids. It certainly can't hurt.

In your first picture, if you make a cut flush with the coupling at the top of the gray pipe, that should leave you enough room to glue on a new coupling. Then just make another cut on the pipe coming out of the pump with enough pipe left to glue on a 2nd coupling. That should give you enough...

You might consider connecting it to your returns at the pool equipment. If it's capped, just cut off the cap and connect it to one of the returns with a T fitting and that'll give you another return with fresh water flowing through that pipe at all times. If it's capped, it probably has some...

I would definitely advise against putting a spigot on the suction side of the pump. You're just asking for trouble with suction air leaks. Those spigots are notorious for leaking. If you want to use one, put it after the pump and before the filter, or you can just use a 3 way valve instead...

You can use a submersible pump and make your own aerator if you want. This one cost me about $20 in parts at Home Depot. I attached a union to it so it is easy to disassemble from the sub pump.

Do you have a 3 way valve before the pump? If so, have you tried running the pump with either side closed? I have a similar issue with my pump and normally my 3 way valve is set so only the pool side sucks water and the spa side is closed off. My basket never seems to fill all the way when in...

Also check your manifolds inside the filter. They can get cracks in them which will also lead to DE returning to the pool. Make sure they are in good shape and also check the o-ring at the top of the pipe that the filter grids attach to.

You can always install a flow meter like a Flo vis and that will tell you the different GPMs at the different rpms of your VS pump. They work quite well.

It's not bullet proof, and some issues can arise, but the nice thing is that it is very user friendly to take apart and clean things like the impeller or clean any other junk that could get lodged in areas. You only need a screwdriver and that's about it.

Try spraying some soapy water from a sprayer around the areas where the gaskets are. If there's a leak, you'll definitely notice the bubbles from the water getting sucked in to the valve or union or even any fittings.

A robot is run separate from the pool equipment. It does not require either a booster pump or the pool pump to be running to function. You just plug the controller into an AC outlet and attach the robot's cord to the controller and turn it on. It usually will run for 2 hours and use very...

If your DE filter has a multi port valve with a circulate setting which bypasses the filter grids, you could try running your pump again and seeing if you can get past the point where it keeps losing prime. If it works past that point, it's clearly a sign that the filter is getting clogged up...

Or ... you can decide that this is the perfect opportunity to upgrade to a robot and remove that booster pump from the pad completely. You will save a lot of electricity with a robot compared to a booster pump and Polaris sweeper.

Do we get to see any pics from the finished product?? We love pics!!!

I have had that happen to me as well with certain vacuum heads. My fix was to use a zip tie around the outside of the hose cuff and cinch it down just a little bit extra. It seemed to do the trick ok.

I second mknauss' advice. I used to have a Polaris 280 as well and it worked fine, but the 2 hours a day that the booster pump would run would cost me more in electricity than running my VSP at 1100 rpms for 24 hours, so I sold both the 280 and the booster pump on craigslist and ordered a...

How did you like the swivel replacement? I've only replaced the other end, and just like you, I used silicone on it as well.

Yeah, that skimmer is different than mine. Mine appears to be made out of cement and it has a square leaf basket (not round). There is definitely an increase in turbulence when you shift to all skimmer. No doubt about it. With that skimmer you have, I see a lot of ridges as you go up the...

When you switch to the skimmer, what does your pump lid basket look like? Does the water level drop any? Does it start creating lots of bubbles? You may have a leak at the skimmer (hopefully not). Check any valves or fittings along the skimmer line if you can all the way to the front of the...

A submersible pump will be your best friend. Since you can't close off the skimmer suction completely (at least I can't), you can only drain with the pool equipment to the skimmer level before the pump will start to draw air. Just get a submersible pump like this one with a discharge hose and...

Only if you have the spa return opened a little. If you leave it closed off, the chlorine will only make its way back to the pool.

I can see why you weren't thrilled. There's no excuse for a professional to do a plumbing job like that, especially considering it was a new build. To put flex pvc plus a hose clamp in front of the pump like that boggles my mind. Why would he not just run a longer piece of straight hard pipe...

If you use the larger size pipe with the valve, you first have to use a coupler that goes OVER the output of the valve, then connect your bigger size pipe to it. For your setup, you want the 1.5" x 2" 3 way valve. You glue your 1.5" sewer pipe inside one of the ports and on the other two...

So, your pool builder built the pad like this from scratch in 2017? I can't believe he used all that flex pvc instead of hard pipe? Maybe it was just a retrofit??

The spa is being filtered, it's just not getting any new chlorine from the tab feeder. You can get a stronger spa spillover by turning the main pump on higher rpms and also by turning the 3 way valve on the return manifold to close off as much as the regular pool return as possible. When you...

I have an old Anthony pool as well, and I have a similar setup. One suction pipe for the pool that pulls from both the skimmer and main drain. I have that same diverter valve and when you turn it with the pump running, you can definitely feel the change in suction of the skimmer. I believe...

I would cut halfway between the white union and the T on the discharge side of the pump and put a 90 elbow there and run it across and connect it with your discharge line with a 3 way Jandy valve. This way you can empty your pool a little if it begins to overflow if needed. Then, connect the...

ajw22 is right, that may create an issue. Looking at your plumbing, it would be very easy to move your SWG before the 4 way and re-pipe the loop that goes to the ball valve in front of the pump without much trouble. You have plenty of pipe to cut into so it shouldn't be difficult at all if...

If you re-pipe from the 4 way to the return line into the ground, make sure you cut below the coupler coming out of the ground. The way it is now, the line is a lot smaller because of the booster pump hoses. Cutting it and putting a new coupler will make the pipe bigger like the rest of your...