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My water is clear and I passed the oclt but I have the same specks visible in front of my light at night and exactly the same as you described: visible 6"-8" directly in front of the light and that's it. I figured it was natural occurring debris and don't worry about it too much

My 406a heater uses an intermatic t104r timer with the intermatic fireman's switch, works great and ensures the heater isn't running when the pump is off. I didn't look up the spec for your heater but mine is 240v, if you are using 120 the t103r should be fine.

My gauge spit out a bit of oil when I pulled the pin the first time. With the pin out I squeezed the gauge just enough to get a bit more oil out then I put the plug back in. It's common for liquid gauges to have a small air bubble at the top to allow the fluid to expand without coming out of...

Valve 1 allows the pool water to bypass the heaters and swcg before returning back to the pool, my guess is in case the heaters or swcg need to be repaired or removed. It looks like there are valves in front of each heater as well but they aren't labeled as such. Valve 2 does the same thing for...

I typically shut off the suction side valve before the pump and the MPV to closed which prevents water from draining while cleaning the strainer basket, no need for a check valve.

You could also re-tap the threads with a helicoil insert. Basically you drill and tap a slightly larger hole and then insert the helicoil which will get you back to the original thread size. https://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/brands/optia/heli-coil You need to know the size and pitch...

I decided to try and definitely check if I had a suction side leak. I bought this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01986CK7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ph5.EbRKRA6TE and threaded it into the bottom of my skimmer. I set the suction valve to close off the floor drain and closed the return jets. I...

Great explanation, thank you

As long as the pump primes you are just fine. I would leave the air vent on the filter (assuming you have one) open until a steady stream of water comes out then close it.

Those were interesting, thanks for sharing. So the rational behind the new regulations and flow rates is better energy efficiency. I was curious if it had to do with better ways to filter/clean pools but that doesn't appear to be the case. I guess the slower water speeds will naturally lend to...

The internet may have inaccurate information?! I'm shocked! ;)

I got the 8/10 fps recommendation from here: http://www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how_to_measure_total_dynamic_head_with_gauges.aspx?CommentPage=1 Will read the link in your signature, thanks for sharing!

I take mine apart for cleaning once a year after opening the pool, maybe backwash once a season?

I like investigating/poking around with things and started looking into the flow rate for my pool equipment. I understand flow rate isn't all that important but I'm curious nonetheless. Is there a reason behind the recommended flow rate charts? I've seen the 8 fps/10 fps charts and the...

Not sure if you are experiencing the same thing but a few weeks ago I had what looked like dark grey dust on the bottom of my pool, especially in the creases and seams of my liner. Water looked crystal clear but when I did an overnight chlorine loss test I was losing chlorine, even at night. It...

Are you sure it's DE? I had dead algae collecting on the floor of my pool, looked a lot like DE but then I realized I had an algae issue. You can try and tie a sock or some type of filter to a return jet and see if anything collects inside so you can get a better look.

Not sure, do you know what pipes are connected to that jandy valve? Right now no water is flowing to the pipe on the right, it's all being diverted to the left pipe

I have a VS pump, swcg and heater with no automation. Recently upgraded from a single speed 1.5hp Hayward Superpump. Since my pump is 3hp I would have to run it at like 500 rpms to provide inadequate flow which is something that will never happen so I'm not worried about that. If I want to...

McMaster Carr is your friend! I would go the epoxy route Jim outlined before going a screw size up though.

Eh not really, I'm just home a lot these days (thanks Covid!) and it's nice to see a clean pool surface. I have a few trees around the pool and the pollen has been nuts so I do get debris but in all honesty I could get away with running the pump only when the SWCG is on (4 hours) and maybe...

What about going up a screw size? If there is not enough material around the screw hole to allow for that then I would go your route, use JB Weld marine putty or something similar would be my guess.

I just checked and at 1500 rpm the pump draws 205 watts. At my current electric rates that equals $26/mo if I run it 24/7. Worth it to me!

I'm in the same boat and have been messing around with my fancy new VS pump. I opted to run 24/7 just for aesthetics, I like my pool to be as clean as possible (it better be after all the work I put into it!!). My current schedule is: 7:00 AM - 9:00 AM: 2500 rpm to skim any large debris off the...

Quick update: I've been fiddling around with rpms, timing, valve positions, etc. It seems everything has reached a state of equilibrium, the bubble under the lid never goes away but it has also stopped getting larger even at slower rpms. My current schedule is 1500 rpms for 21 hrs 50 minutes...

So I did some more testing today, here are the results: Tried running water over the suction side union and where the union threads into the pump but couldn't see any noticeable change in the bubble. I'm going to try again later and see what the results are because it was about a million...

I did a bit of experimenting, at lower rpms (1500) the water level in the pump basket will slowly drop. If I turn it up to 2500 rpm the basket will fill most of the way up except for a small (2"-3") bubble under the lid. I let it run again at 1500 and the cycle repeats itself. Is it possible...

I realized I never answered where the leaks were: one was the threaded part of the union on the pump discharge, other leak was the union connection between the MPV and the jandy bypass for the heater. @sktn77a I used enough lubricant to coat the gasket with a thin film, is that enough or should...

Here are some photos, sorry i can't get wider shots it's pretty close quarters. Some info on my system: suction and return lines are all 1.5"; I have threaded unions on both ends of the pump (I pretty much have unions everywhere...); running at 1500 rpm filter pressure reads 3 psi, at 2500...

So quick follow up, at higher speeds (2500rpm) the air bubble is still there but doesn't increase in size, however I then get air bubbles coming out of one of the return jets which doesn't happen at lower speeds

I just replaced my existing Hayward 1.5hp pump with a new CircuPool 3hp pump, added a swcg and redid all of the piping from the suction lines coming out of the pad to the jandy valves for the return jets. I have two very slight leaks I need to address but they are very slow drips, maybe once...