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Thanks, I'll try it. I'm not sure what "final advise" means. Try another web site? Will do

What do you think? Thanks

Update... The the wires for the flow switch are: clear-orange -green -blue. I went: white=clear red=orange green = green black = blue Still cold water red light at 68 degrees? P.S. when I hold the "more" button it says 40%. Is that 40% left or 40% used? (sorry, I went to public schools).

I'm on it, thanks

Cold water red light on? Water temp 68 Life left 40% It's clean What's up?

It's a T-15 cell The readings remain the same when I move the switch to auto and back.

My neighbor has a Swim Pure Hayward SWG. When he firsts turns it on, the red flow light flashes. When the flow is restored the light goes out and NO lights are on. Readings: 4300 0 100p 0 AL-2 r 1.40 What's up? Thanks

What you say sounds intuitive but remember the acid come in plastic containers with no harm. My jug even has a rubber gasket in the cap that is fine.

I don't have a heater and was thinking maybe adding MA to the skimmer when necessary will cut down the times I would have to soak the Salt Cell. Crazy?

Thanks, I'm trying to do this remotely so it may take awhile.....

The Swim Pure control box display reads "Cold" and the green Generating light is blinking. The water is 82 degrees. The cell was just cleaned. What's up?

Thanks Bottom line, if the green "Generating" light is solid ON, chlorine is being produced regardless of other lights?

The cells should last longer at these prices!

It's my neighbors pool.... The red light reads "check salt" (my Taylor kit measures 3600ppm). The green "generating" light is on. The readings are: 2900 84 24.7 5.6 / 5.7 (on then off then on) 2900 If the "generating" light is on will it produce chlorine even though the "check salt " is on?

Thanks folks, I used the phone jack trick and it cleared the red light. I'll replace the flow switch ASAP but I really don't see much that could wear out with them.

I It's my neighbors pool.

Thanks, I'll check that tonight. If I take the old phone plug and twist the wires together and the light stays on, what does that tell me?

Thanks again. I'll get a meter. Meanwhile, I took a second flow switch and plugged it in to the control unit (leaving the original installed) and taped the paddle to the main arm. Shouldn't that cut the red light off? It didn't......

Thanks, but could you tell me exactly where to measure the ohms resistance on the switch (unfortunately I went to public schools ...)

Is there a way to test the flow switch. I unscrewed it and touched the 2 pieces together and expected the control box "red light" to go off. It didn't.

No on the salt. I'll just have to live with it. The pool goes through Muriatic acid at 1 gal every 2 weeks (seems high as well).

7lbs. in March and 7lbs. in Sept.

Does it seem unusual to need 7 lbs. of Stabilizer twice per year to maintain 60-70ppm? The pool is 35,000gal. Thanks

Yep, that's your 3rd. They are super easy to replace. I'd get an extra after market now. You'll need it sooner than you think (translation...the minute you are out of warranty). Two small tips. When you cut the old one out, screw the new one in before you connect the wires. Second, buy a pack...

I help several neighbors with their pools (translation....I have bought many Pentair style flow switches). I've noticed both after market and OEM seem to last about the same time, which is way too short! You can end up replacing 2 through the life of the cell.

If you replace the flow switch and it doesn't help, at least you'll have an extra flow switch which you will eventually need anyway.

Thanks!

Will a pool's salt concentration measure differently if the water is 30 degrees warmer or colder?

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(y)