Search results

I currently have a Merlin 32x16 Dura Mesh pool cover that was used with my old pool before it was remodeled. My old pool had the aluminum coping and concrete decking with the brass anchors. My new pool has travertine decking and no separate coping. The other big difference is a new water feature...

Both options are great. Would be best to avoid any potential stress on the travertine. I’ll try the bigger opening and the typical unsanded grout. Many thanks!

I bought the 1x18 inch long brass anchors in the aluminum tubes to install in my floating travertine deck. However, when I core drilled a 1 inch hole into my scrap piece and then tried to install the long anchor, it fractured my scrap piece of travertine. Luckily, it was a scrap piece. I guess...

I don’t have the phone app or wireless. I only use the remote OneTouch controller wired to inside the house. The pool lights only stay on Alpine White no matter which color I select on the OneTouch display.

I’ve tried every Jandy Watercolor on my OneTouch panel, but my pool only shows Alpine White. When I roll through the colors manually at the control box it works fine. However, when I take it out of Service Mode it always returns to Alpine White. The firmware in my AquaLink RS6 is MMM.

Try re-installing the original capacitor. It’s common for oxidation to form on the terminals and re-seating the terminals can wipe them clean. Had this happen a few weeks ago. If your capacitor in not swollen and the terminals are not loose, give it another try. Or, find a friend who has a Fluke...

I’d recommend dropping the water level to get access, center punch and drill out as much rebar as possible, then apply POR. Then, apply a two-part white epoxy.

The goal was to understand the technical differences between the two. More for information than anything. There may not be any significant differences. Was also curious if all the 52 pin PPDs work with both assembly types.

They’re the two main assemblies for all Aqualink PPD-based #8124A PCBs.

Was curious if anyone knew what the technical difference was between Assembly #8125 and Assembly #8194.

I've seen documents that explain the differences in PPD versions, but I haven't seen anything that explains the difference between Assembly #8125 and Assembly #8194. I think they are both on PCB #8124A.

Anybody know how a faulty keypad would allow the heater to fire and then shut down?

Just had a sheer descent put in w/ three 24” waterfalls, but no LED. As Allen says, you will need a separate set of drains. I tried several pumps (1 hp, 1.5 hp, 2.0 hp vsp). The 2.0 hp w/ variable speed worked best.

Looking to buy 400kbtu NG heater. Had a Hayward, but it is well past it’s useful life. Most of the comments about Hayward these days are negative with most pointing to the heat exchanger, the control board, or premature corrosion. Looking for more experienced opinions. TIA.

I would vacuum or blow out the debris, but other than that it looks good to me.

What’s the distance between your bypass and your heater that would cause so much additional head pressure? If the distance is sizable, I could see your point. Not the typical setup I see. I see more damage to heaters from an unintended stoppage in flow than the need for a bypass valve. I would...

I give up. What’s the purpose of a heater bypass other than accidental bypass when the heater has not cooled down adequately and causing severe damage to the heater?

Would advise against using white Teflon tape. Most thread leaks I’ve seen were from homeowners using tape. Use the dope. Also, use the soap spray to check for leaks.

Would estimate that heater puts out less than 100kBTUs which may be a bit undersized for your 22k gal pool. Would recommend 250kBTU NG or LG minimum. Electrics are good for the south and milder temps.

I’ve had to take some sandpaper to my sensor before. Just a few light passes. Otherwise, it sounds like either low gas pressure or crappy gas (probably with a lot of moisture in the line from the rain).

I've never had a problem yet. This is a common method to diagnose commercial gas dryers too. I am not indicating to stick your face into the burner but, a couple of feet away should be enough. If you are applying positive pressure then the gas would flow away from you and anything that lights...

If the ignitor glows and you can hear the gas valve open and smell the gas, then try blowing into the burner assembly. Sometimes the gas does not flow over to the ignitor. If you get full flame after that then you may need to clean the jets and manifold with a vacuum cleaner and possibly...

Have you checked the motor yourself? If its certain that the motor needs to be replaced, perhaps you could remove the motor and fan unit and check to see if the motor spins freely or is frozen. Maybe you can take some pictures of the motor nameplate and inside the fan housing. I would check for...

For future reference, many times error codes and other issues can be resolved by simply pulling all the wires from the control board one plug at a time and re-seating them. This allows some of the oxidation to be rubbed off the control board pins. I've had luck with this many times over the...

For future reference, the vacuum switch is what is says it is....just a switch....that can be jumpered out. I've also had good luck with just pulling one end of the vacuum hose from the housing and using my mouth to put suction and then fold the hose over. This is just for diagnosis purposes...

UPDATE: The squirrel cage blower fan does seem to be removable via the typical set screw. However, it is a bit rusted. I've had some luck drilling it out. I also found a place on the internet that fabricates and sells custom squirrel cage blower fans (w/o the motor). The average price is about...

Stick with the gas heater. And with that size pool, you'll need a 400K BTU minimum. The heatpump will be a waste of time.

I didn't try that! When the blower turned on and started throwing out chucks of metal and making a horrible racket, I quickly turned the unit off. I then just stuck my hand down the exhaust and felt the squirrel cage was trashed. I'll investigate further today. Thanks!

I'm looking for just the fan to a LAARS LT400. The part# for the whole assembly is R0329800. My motor & cap work fine but, my fan finally rusted through. Anybody have just the fan they want to part with? Figured I'd ask before I throw down the ~$375. Thanks!

How is the dosing done? Is it set up to run continuous at minimum drip rate or on a timer? Or, do you have a transducer to measure the ORP or something?