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Yep, I think you have the idea down... the indoor "antenna" powers the protocol adapter and - in conjunction with the outdoor antenna - wirelessly connects the data lines (yellow/green wires) to the outdoor board. the outdoor board, the wireless link and the protocol adapter each have an rs485...

anywhere from 12-15 volts is fine, I think mine's 14 and change. as far as I can tell the you've only got 2 devices that can connect to the comm port... a screenlogic protocol adapter and a wireless link (for the screenlogic). You said you don't have an intelliflo... do you have an...

@mfifield01 great point about the IP rating and depth, and @mknauss I like your shelf trick... I should have been doing that all along!

I've never tried it but it's on my list. I have an 830 that "died" a couple weeks back... it was shutting down because the impeller motor wouldn't spin - I could turn it by hand but it was pretty tight. Luckily I had an 820 for spare parts so I swapped the whole motor assembly but I do want to...

I do like a pentair remote! Actually I prefer an indoor controller - both of them "back up" all of your settings and programming, something Screenlogic doesn't do. But I also have a Screenlogic (protocol adapter) with a wireless link (Jim I'm into the early 2000s now!). I think the wireless...

hi and welcome! I'm not a suntouch user myself but I checked the wiki and there's nothing for the Suntouch (Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading), so I'd start with the Pentair documentation that you can find here... SunTouch® Control System. Give that a look and post any other questions!

give us some more details on what you mean by "my easytouch control only flashes"... what is flashing? what kind of booster pump do you have? if it's just a single speed high pressure pump I would expect it to be controlled by a relay (and it might have a time delay set) rather than have a...

Ok cool that's great information... it definitely sounds like the indoor board is bad. I usually like to connect it with a short known-good cable to the outdoor board to eliminate wiring issues but it sounds like you and the tech took care of that already. sending you a message now.

i'll reach out over pm, but first... how did you isolate it as the issue? i.e. does the outdoor panel work fine and talk to your pump/salt generator/etc (I don't know what you've got) with the indoor unit unplugged?

wow, I did post that... and unfortunately I never made a 3d model to print. I got rid of that d804 because I was busy messing with the Fluke 8060s - made my own custom LCD replacement for them ;) Check it out: Old Fluke Multimeters - Page 36

Look in the manual for the sequence to reset the salt number and see if that works for you... you have to turn the unit on, wait for it to click and then momentarily flip to super chlorinate when you see the right salt level (3100ish for you). Check the manual for the exact sequence, I don't...

Really nice work and great write up! WLED is great software too.

Ok cool, you've got a wireless link... my best guess at this point is that it's the culprit. I would try hard-wiring it (temporarily remove the wireless link) and see if that changes anything. If you can't run a long enough cable you can also install the Screenlogic in the outdoor panel and...

Hey Eric, I don't see an answer to whether your screenlogic (SL) hard-wired to the comm port or if it uses a wireless link? (I know the ethernet side is wired to a switch, but I'm talking about the rs485 connection). A wireless link might add an interference variable to your problem. If your...

agh, that stinks! Removing the buttons without damaging the board can be a pain... I can see that the top left pad for the menu button got ripped off before the through-hole. If you solder a bridge from the button to the hole, does that fix it? usually before removing a button I'll use a...

Ok so you now have a comm cable going from J20 on the Easytouch to the expansion board (where you had the pump connected in your last pic, shown below)? In that case, if you want to have a single device on each connector (i.e. nothing piggybacked), you can connect your pump's green/yellow to...

you've done the first step in troubleshooting the rs485 devices... you've disconnected everything but the pump, and the fact that it works (shows display not active) tells us your outdoor board is good. Caution: you do NOT want to have your board powered up with that disconnected white comm...

start yourself a for-sale thread for that pi over in the "coffee bar" forum!

Yeah, that makes no sense to me either... I didn't think there was an "external control" setting at the indoor panel. What you've got is a pump that can talk to the intellitouch directly, but is instead going through the intellicomm... Which afaik was introduced to let you use an intelliflo...

I don't know what "External Control" is in context of the Intellitouch... are you seeing that as an option in the pump setup?? send us a picture of your pump showing the Prog1/Prog2 etc. Even though your outdoor board has 1.160, you're only going to see the options available in 1.090 since...

Ok so it seems like your Easytouch main panel has broken comm port... the transceiver could also still be dead. Just for clarity sake... the lights and the pump (if it's a single speed) will still work if the comm port is dead. I'll send you a pm with some options.

Hey @James L., 520946z is the official replacement part number. But whether they call it a 520949, 520946 or 520946z, any card with a Laird radio and firmware 2040 will work. Pentair has a confusing system of assigning part numbers to their labels as well as their boards, so the 520949 number...

Same to you @Jaimslaw... boards are gone!

Hey alright! @Jaimslaw I'll send you a pm

You'll need to determine what device on the rs485 bus isn't working... If you think the transceiver card (aka antenna) is the problem, unplug it from the comm port (power down first!), and then see if the other devices are working... these may include your Intellichlor, your Whisperflo if it's...