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As far as I can tell, it is a home run from the light to the Easytouch panel. Nothing else in line. I used a gfci tester on the gfci and it tested ok. I guess if its working for the pool lights and tests ok, it must be ok and the spa light must be at fault. Will let it dry out for a few days...

Removed the load side of the gfci and it does not trip. Removed the spa load and it does not trip. There are three lights (circuits) connected through the gfci; 2 x pool lights and 1 x spa light. The pool lights work fine with no tripping of the gfci. The spa light trips the gfci every time...

Tried a few more things and determined that the GFCI was tripping on the spa light. Guess this is the 120V circuit to both spa and pool lights. The spa light was dry when I checked the bulb. What else could be tripping the circuit?

I rarely use my lights, but had friends over and was showing them the pool. After about a minute from turning them on, all lights (spa and pool) went out. The pool lights (2) and the spa light (1) are on separate relays. I pulled each light and checked the bulbs for continuity with a...

BTW, the valve was broken (tips where it clips to the retainer ring to hold the spring were broken). The valve made it through 3 x 90o bends and into the SWG. Water flow pushed the valve into the flow switch in the SWG and broke that too. Had to replace the flow switch and the valve kit...

Other insert piece replaced [attachment=2:1yozo48v]IMG00126-20120421-0929.jpg[/attachment:1yozo48v] First gasket is put in place, then manifold cover plate [attachment=1:1yozo48v]IMG00127-20120421-0931.jpg[/attachment:1yozo48v] Everything back in order, working great...

Broken valve (bottom) and new valve assembly (top) [attachment=2:3hwu600z]IMG00120-20120421-0839.jpg[/attachment:3hwu600z] New valve assembly in place [attachment=1:3hwu600z]IMG00121-20120421-0921.jpg[/attachment:3hwu600z] The manifold insert is in 3 pieces (like a puzzle), easier to...

The manifold insert (plastic) needs to be removed [attachment=2:336cmcx6]IMG00115-20120421-0832.jpg[/attachment:336cmcx6] The bypass valve assembly without the valve (its broken) [attachment=1:336cmcx6]IMG00118-20120421-0833.jpg[/attachment:336cmcx6] Had to remove the broken valve plate with...

Now we can get to the manifold [attachment=2:mcsuanfs]IMG00111-20120421-0809.jpg[/attachment:mcsuanfs] Remove the thermostat first [attachment=1:mcsuanfs]IMG00128-20120421-0942.jpg[/attachment:mcsuanfs] Now the manifold [attachment=0:mcsuanfs]IMG00113-20120421-0823.jpg[/attachment:mcsuanfs]

For anyone interested, here's how it goes: Heater in line before SWG [attachment=2:67v8lfwg]IMG00104-20120421-0754.jpg[/attachment:67v8lfwg] Remove sides and top [attachment=1:67v8lfwg]IMG00108-20120421-0803.jpg[/attachment:67v8lfwg] Got to remove the manifold side by removing bolts to heater...

What are the implications if it isn't repaired? Can I just put the valve back in place?

Anyone have a clue how to replace/repair the manifold bypass valve in a Pentair Mastertemp heater? I'm not even sure this is a repairable item. It appears that the bypass valve popped loose and made its way to my chlorinator (which subsequently broke the flow switch and stopped my chlorinator...

Thanks for the suggestions and I plan to investigate further with fc loss test, shocking, etc. Its interesting that the suggestions are related to the condition of the water. This algae is not in the water (note that there is no algae growing below the water surface). I'm curious, will the...