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It looks like the replacement board assembly is part number 77707-0013. Looks pricey. 42002-0029z is the keypad membrane and 42001-0096s is just the control board. I found the part numbers for you but sadly I don't know how to troubleshoot it to determine exactly which one you need.

TKD, using an ammeter is one of the easiest things in the world. it is basically just a gauge with two probes, red and black. They are cheap and i think you can even rent them from hardware stores. Below is a video showing the process of using an ammeter...

The old standby are the Intermatic PX100, PX300, but there are plenty of brands out there to fit your application.

If your pump is a Hayward Super 2 then you would need the AS-1521 standard shaft seal or the PS-3868 heavy duty seal for saltwater pools. These seals are easy fxes, with plenty of guides online to show you how to replace.

That looks like an old Hayward Max-Flo. The standard shaft seal is a AS1521, or go with a heavy duty saltwater seal, it is a PS3868. Depending on the last time you serviced them I would replace the gaskets and there are "tune up kits" that include to whole she-bang (lid, diffuser, shaft seal...

I don't know about the epoxy coloring but I would take a multimeter to the light and/or the circuit to detmine if the light actually needs replacing. I'd prefer to go off of a meter reading than a smell.

An explanation on why their pictures look the same is that most manufactures only provide one stock picture for a line of filters. They usually choose the larger versions to use as the stock picture for the fitler line to give the best representation of the potential size of the unit. For single...

It may be stuck on something or the grime may have the seal a little stubborn. Looking at the parts diagram of the pump there is nothing keeping it in place.

JohnT, :thumleft: :cheers:

There is no need to drop a grand on a brand new EC75. And by that I mean, the net has them for $550 with free shippiing or less.If you can do the plumbing yourself then you are set. But if your housing is split there is no feasible cheap/longterm solution, unless it is under warranty.

Speaking of going big I would also look into hayward's new 500K heater. That will give you an extra boost to get those 4 weeks. Hayward Universal H Series H500FDN

Ok, after you remove the six screws from the pump's seal plate you will need to pull the motor AND the drivetrain. It will look like this: http://wetheadmedia.com/wp-content/uploads/pictures/2010/01/Unclogging-Impeller-On-The-Hayward-Super-Pump-.jpg The the cone at the end of the motor will be...

What type of fiberstars pool light is it? Is it is a niched pool light that is 10" or so wide, or fiber system that has lines of fiberoptic that go to a lens end piece? A picture would help

Usually they orient the threads to be fastened in such a manner that as the fan spins it naturally tightens it, like an impeller to a motor shaft.

Gotcha, thank you for the clarification.

Question for you Mark. Since the OP has a two HP single speed and your signature states you have a 1/2 HP dual, would that make a different in the pressure spikes between your two systems? His has to be going full boor meanwhile yours has stages. Your pump has a slower flow rate so even though...

The J&J bulbs I think are only compatible with the Pentair Amerilite, Hayward Astrolite, and Jacuzzi Full Moon; so make sure yours is one of those. J&J would be my suggestion of manufacturer

It looks similar to the poolvergnuegen pool cleaners which are pretty durable and highly regarded. I have seen a lot about the rebel but never actually heard from a homeowner having used it in their pool. I am interested in this topic as well.

That part is a D26. The hose can be taken off the old valve and popped on to the new one. make sure to secure it with the nuts

How would you determine the groundwater effect?

Where is it on this list?

Can you repost pics, they are not popping up for me

Usually an issue like that is sourced to a bad capacitor or the motor dying. How familiar are you with multimeter? If you are handy then checking the CAP shouldn't be too hard. Test the cap leads and also check the power source while you're at it. If you are no familiar with testing electrical...

Sounds like it just needed to get settled into place. Just in case, I would keep an eye for leaks for a day or two. anytime a shaft seal is making noise is has an issue i become Calvin Cautious

Mario, yes it can be done. Pool speakers work in the same manner pool lights do; in that they require a niche in which to sit.Clark Synthesis makes makes speakers (AQ339) that fit into standard sized pool like the 78232500 Vinyl/Fiberglass Pool Niche by Pentair.

I have looked everywhere for this bad boy and I think I found it. Part Numbers: D23 Quick Disconnect Adapter, 412-007 Bushing, 412-007 Elbow, D31 Strainer Housing - Clear, D36 Strainer, G52 - Back Up Valve. This style is super old, like Pre - 91 old

The 187 is a post 1998 model. It does not have a copper insert. The style of shaft seal you would need is the PS201

Ping, why keep the pool cleaner in during the winter months but only spotty during the season?

It was a C1750 so there would not be a multiport valve on it. Is there a diverter valve after the pump and filter that could have been closed while they were building up pressure? Unless you can re-thread the base of the tie rod somehow, a replacement of the base would be necessary. And like...

Re: Pump Motor Going Bad? What to replace it with? Hey Auburn, do you have any model or part numbers from your motor or pump so we can see what you are working with? A picture of the label would do nicely.