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I see - thanks. When I have the liner replaced, what can I do to make sure this doesn’t happen again?

And now today the spots are completely gone. If they were from under the liner, what does that mean? The bacteria or algae is somehow going through the vinyl?

The stains are in the exact same place. The liner looks faded and worn on the bottom where the stains are.

Here's what happened yesterday - I poured a gallon of liquid chlorine into the deep end. It traveled down to the bottom and the black areas instantly disappeared. After about 10 minutes, they reappeared.

I think I'm still oxidizing things, since the Cl dropped overnight, and dropped from 5 to 4 from 3 hours ago. Should I shock to something like 8 or 10 and see what happens to the black areas?

No copper in water. I'll try the Vitamin C when I go into the water

Just tested for copper - 0

All test results except CYA are from Taylor kits. Chlorine is from FAS-DPD

Yes, a few leaves, like every year (I use a solid winter pool cover). I vacuumed them up, along with the general debris, on Sunday, leaving the bottom perfectly clean with no spots. These spots just appeared yesterday and are increasing for some reason.

Does the fact that my liner is 10 years old have anything to do with it?

Yes, currently no stabilizer. The pool has been covered during the day. I will add some, but I don't think that has anything to do with the black areas.

Here's what the black areas look like this morning. The areas have expanded overnight. Current levels: TC 5 FC 5 TA 70 pH 7.9 Temp 73 CH 50 CYA 0 The areas do not brush or vacuum off. They are in the deep end (9 ft.)

Years ago I had some copper water lines, but none now. I have a gas heater that has been running. It's 3 years old.

Well, they weren't present yesterday evening when I put the solar cover on. The bottom was clear. Last night I added a little washing soda to raise the pH a little. I had already added a box of Borax on Sunday. This morning I added 1 lb of calcium hypochlorite to keep the Cl above 3. This after...

This is my 16th year opening my pool. Three days ago I did what I do every year. Began filtering 24/7. Vacuumed sides and bottom. Changed DE 3 times. Water got clearer every day. Today it was very clear. There was some dark residue on the bottom of the deep end, so I vacuumed it away this...

Which is best for an underground PVC pipe repair? Union, Compression coupling, or Slip (telescoping) coupling? Union has one o-ring, Compression has two seals, and Slip has 3 o-rings.

The threaded end is completely fixed - it goes into my pool. I have the poly end dug out for 6 feet. I don't see any way to make it square. I'm probably going to cut the poly and use pvc, and then a union so I don't need any bending.

When I try that, the fitting is angled and the threads won't start.

I have 6 ft of the poly loose, but it is so stiff that I don't see how I can make room for the barbed insert fitting to work. My plan now is to cut the poly back so it is not under the concrete but instead under the grass. Then I will bring PVC to that spot, put a barb x PVC fitting on the poly...

Instead of a barbed insert fitting, could I use a Fernco type fitting over both the black poly and the PVC pipe? Or a union?

Yes, I can dig it back quite a ways if I want. The very end of the poly is ragged and a little damaged, so I'm hoping I can cut the poly back and use the adapters that I talked about.

How about this - would this work? (From left to right) Inlet fitting <-> NPT x slip PVC adapter <-> Short length of PVC <-> Slip x Barbed adapter <-> Black Poly Pipe

Here is a photo of the inside of the PVC fitting.

I think you're right - it is a slightly flexible pipe. The left has internal FIP threads that the broken white fitting was screwed into. I'll try to get a photo of the inside.

The pipe on the left goes to my pool inlet fitting, and looks like ABS. The pipe on the right is 1-1/2" ABS back to my pump. The white fitting has broken (MIP on left to barb fitting inside pipe on right). I'm going to have to cut the ABS on the right at least 2 inches to get past the broken...