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Are you seeing an increase in clarity?

The test is the least objective but also the most forgiving. So if your test says 30 but it's really 20 there will be no harm.......just read it the best you can and assume your reading is correct.

There are thousands of species of algae. Each has it's own characteristics.

Copper is an effective algaecide but nothing more. It is not a sanitizer. If you are happy with your method of pool care, it is not for TFP to try to talk you out of it. TFP's purpose is to teach a method that safely and effectively keeps your pool clear. I hope you take the time to read...

We can help fix your pool but really need a complete set of test results to understand your current condition. Can you post..... FC -? CC - ? TA - ? pH - ? CYA - ? CH - ?

Taylor bottles that 50 ppm sample in pretty large quantities and it doesn't "go bad", so, it is not likely to be a 50 ppm issue as other purchasers would report it as well. It is a hard test to master and impossible to get perfect each time. Good advice above. TFTestkits uses most all Taylor...

Sorry to be strident, but I STILL see no evidence you have started to SLAM you pool

It sounds like your best bet is to remove it with diluted muriatic acid. It may stop after time. Lowering the soil (on the outside of the pool wall) lower than the water line may not be practical in your case.

I think that is efflorescence as well. You can remove/minimize it with muriatic acid for a shirt term fix. A better, longer term fix is to lower the decking so the water drains away from the pool and not INTO the pool from the decking

It's a little more complex than that. First things first, you need to identify the stains. Most common is iron but all the treatments are different so we need to know the type of stain or we are just guessing

SLAM the pool. It works. There is nothing in your post that indicates you are following the SLAM procedure precisely. Once you do, your pool will clear probably in a couple of days. Floc has as much chance of making it worse instead of better

If you have a stain that won't brush off, (with or without chlorine) I doubt that is algae at all. Algae seldom, if ever makes a permanent stain that is not removed rather easily. Your best bet is to get back to TFP basic premises. I suggest you SLAM the pool correctly and then start to...

Would you remove the redwoods to get what you want? would you take down the

for us to help, it will be best if you post a current, complete set of test results, Once you provide that "starting point", lot's of folks will be willing to help.

It precipitates when the water is saturated and can hold no more in solution. Once it precipitates, (becomes visible) the pool water must be kept below saturation level and the calcium will SLOWLY return to an invisible state........that may well involce draining part of your pool and filling...

Simply put, you are not adding enough acid. Get your pH into the sevens by adding more acid......keep it in the seven's regardless of how much acid it takes.

Calcium in your fill water is the most common cause. What is the CH of the water you fill with?

Two things consume chlorine. 1. UV rays, but you have that buffered fairly well with a CYA of 60 ppm. 2. Organics (algae) in your pool water The inescapable conclusion is you need to SLAM the pool, regardless of your other inconsistencies.

I thought perhaps fill water had VERY low CH and would have explained the drop. But, that's not the case. Still, do not add CH as evaporation will SLOWLY increase CH in your pool on it's own. Even if it doesn't, you are in no danger with a fiberglass pool.

I don't see test results for the CH of the fill water. That may account for it. In any event, don't add calcium.

The size of the hole is not particularly important. The shape of the tip determines the drop size. very gentle squeezing forms the drop on the tip up until gravity takes over and it FALLS off.

Looks like plain ole' algae. You can get rid of it by following our procedures but it will require you to get a test kit both you and TFP can depend on. We will certainly help but we need the test results first. Please read "Pool Care Basics" up in Pool School

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Anything that actually removes the rust from your source water is great. There is no reason not to use the spigot for refill and maintenance. Trying to fill the entire pool all at once will likely overwhelm your new R/O system so be mindful of the R/O capacity.

Welcome to the forum :wave: Do you have a pic? Black algae is VERY often misdiagnosed.

Watching csi is virtually irrelevant for a vinyl pool.

A suction side air leak is likely the problem.........seems like over 80% of the time

In years past, was your CYA always 40? Like borjis, I would suggest 50 or maybe even 60 for your climate.

To increase CYA, you simply use CYA (also called stabilizer) I suggest you read (or re-read) Pool Care Basics Archives

Some. You will need to run your FC higher (6-9) but should use less. I think it is about a wash. More importantly, you should first do an OCLT to make sure you have no algae.......that's what may be the cause of your chlorine consumption.