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I can read and understand schematics when the lines are all there. The problem in this case was the lines weren't there. Musta been a problem at the print shop. A dual timer set-up sounds nice and probably works real well, but in the grand scheme of things this pump will operate 99% of the...

Hi all, and thanks in advance for any wisdom you can provide. My old single speed pump recently decided to start making a lot of noise then quit working. So, after seeing my electric bill went down 50 bucks and the only thing that had changed was the pump not running I figured it would be...

It would be helpful if you could post a some pictures of your salt cell and the broken parts of the filter. Normally you don't need to completely disassemble the salt cell to clean the plates.

I think most folks here would highly endorse the TF-100, I know I do! Since your pool is green the XL option would definitely be a good investment.

Hi, and welcome to the forum! We recommend either the TF-100 test kit which can be purchased at TFTestkits.net or the Taylor 2006C which can be purchased in a lot of places. Please note the C on the end of the Taylor kit...if you get the regular 2006 you will run out of reagents quickly...

Just throwing this out there as I've been following this thread. Is there a possibility that maybe your CYA is higher than you think? That test is very subjective, I think most folks have problems with it...I know I do. I only ask because you stated in post 15 that the issue seemed to...

Welcome to the forum! How long ago was the pool completed? If very recently I would think the PB would be on the hook to fix the problem. You should not be having to jump through hoops to get the pump primed on a new pool. ---Edit--- It would also be helpful if you would put the particulars...

What a view!

Squeeze some out onto your fingers then use your fingers to work it around and into the o-ring. You are not trying to lay down a bead as if you were sealing windows or baseboard.

Congrats on the new pool! and welcome to the site.

If you want to vacuum to the filter, the setting you currently have is fine. The pool doesn't look that dirty so if it were me, that is what I would do. I know nothing about Bromine pools so I am no help there.

Do you have your own test kit? If so a full set of numbers for all the fine folks here to see would probably be a good place to start. If you don't have your own test kit I would highly recommend you get one on the way. The forum's recommended kits are the TFTestkits TF100 (tftestkits.net) or...

The pipes going left and right out of the first valve and up and down out of the second valve are all supplying "pressure" back towards the pool. You just need to figure out what each one is feeding. gtemkin gave you very good, detailed directions on how to do this back in post #8 of this...

Don't know if the link will be much help, but here is a previous discussion on the topic... Vinyl liner over Concrete or Steel walls

Sounds like you are using a 25ml sample. Switch to 10ml sample and divide number of drops by 2. It is a little less accurate but sufficient for SLAM'ing.

I think you captured the issue with the first part of that quote....this stuff isn't really visible till quite a bit of it settles together in one place. When you brush it poofs and disappears only to resettle again later.

What kit do you use to run your tests?

If it is similar to the stuff I have in my pool adding DE probably isn't going to help much (been there, done that, have the coffee mug and the t-shirt). I've found vac to waste is the only thing that really gets rid of it, then by the end of the week I have more. I'm going to try and order...

Possibly borates in the pool? That would explain seemingly correct additions of acid not affecting PH.

The subpanel should be grounded back to the main panel which in turn should be tied to an earth ground.

Whoa....don't add any stabilizer. Your CYA level is already a little high, even for a SWCG. See chart here...Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart The 70-80 range is what is recommended for a SWCG.

I have the same problem with "brown" stuff settling in wrinkles and along the seams that poofs up when brushed. I used a turkey baster and put some in a glass following Chemgeeks advice of trying to culture it to see if it was in fact some type of algae. I have come to the conclusion that it...

That is because they either ... A) don't know the relationship between CH and CYA or B) don't care because it affords them the opportunity to sale you more miracle cures. I'm fairly sure most, if not all, methods of normal testing top out at 100. I doubt they took the time to do a 50-50...

Pool Math !!! At the top plug in your gallons, down at the bottom you will see an "Effects of adding chemicals" section. I think most pucks are 8oz trichlor, so plug in those numbers and it will give you some totals... Edit... As far as raising TA, listen to Dan.

If I'm reading your post correctly it sounds like one builder is offering drains and the other is offering a sump pump as a method to drain the pool. I would want the drains if I were building a pool. A sump pump will work to empty the pool, but the main drain gives you that ability and offers...

Just a FYI if there is ever a next time, you might want to check your local Home Depot for those trippers. I just bought a package of Intermatic trippers from Home Depot for 3 bucks. It had 2 sets in it. Edit..... Actually if you click on your second link and look down in the "Customers Also...

I think all pabeader meant was you can save your reagents for CC if you don't bother doing that test until the other 2 criteria are met. If you are still seeing substantial drops in FC during the night and your water isn't clear there is no sense in testing the CC's as your other 2 criteria...

No, you do your FC test followed by the CC test and record your results. If you leave the sample sitting after your testing for any length of time it will start drifting back to pink. This is normal.

nm....you posted pictures before I posted...

I "think" the reason for this is during your SLAM there will be a tendency for your PH to drift up. Since you won't be able to test and maintain PH while at SLAM levels I think they recommend you take it down to the lower end of the acceptable range in the hopes it won't drift above 8.0 during...