Search results

1HP, SF 1.65 Ended up ordering a new Impeller, part number 355067, and the lock nut. Hoping the impeller screws on so won't have to use the lock nut.

Dealing with a friends pump that isn't priming and think the issue lies around the impeller. Not clogged, spins freely but found today it isn't mounted securely. The motor shaft it's supposed to screw onto, the threads of the impeller are a tad larger than the shaft. Not sure if it was always...

Figured it out! This replacement part is actually 3 different parts. 1: The Weir Door 2: The Bracket plate (this is the part where the screw is shown) 3: The base where the plate sits in. For my case, my base and bracket are still in good shape, so after removing the screw, I was able to lift...

Well, based on the replacement part, it is assumed that the old part would just slide out after the screw is removed. I'm thinking that some pool installers actually cement this down. I will try to give it another go tonight to see if it can be removed. Given the 2 tabs at the bottom of the...

Jake, did you ever get this resolved? Having to install the same part and not sure how to get the old bracket out. I however, do have the screw and old bracket is in good shape but just can’t get it out

I'll try to get some pictures tomorrow. I'm uncertain if the pool is painted white or if its plaster. I have read that low TA mixed with low pH can cause some chalking. I usually try to keep my pH on the low end, and my TA has gone down over the season due to adding acid for high pH after it...

I'm unsure of the age of the plaster. I know it's at least 3 years old (when I bought the house), could be a few years older than that. The past couple seasons, I believe my CSI would have been closer to the -0.6 range, due to not having my CH levels up, mixed with bottom-range pH. I've since...

Brought my CH levels up to 300, and I continue to have a white powder coming off my walls and even more on the floor. I'm sure the stuff on the floor is a combination of dust and other things (I rarely vacuum) but I've been brushing the walls almost everyday for the past 5 days. I would expect...

Forgot to put pH, knew I forgot something! It's about 7.4 now, although it was closer to 8.0 range at the time of the dust. I lowered it last night, will see if that had any impact on it tonight. Interesting about CSI. I've been using this forum for a couple years and never come across it. Did...

I know there are some threads already pertaining to this subject but couldn't find one that satisfied my situation so I'm asking on my own. Levels as of tonight: FC: 8 (this is currently on its way down from the SLAM I mention below) CH: 200-225 TA: 90 CYA:35 (I know this on the low-end but...

Issue solved (for now). Ended up following this thread:Amerilite Pool Light Leaks. A Fix and what I've learned G-Flex epoxy is good stuff but can be very messy! Got everything back together and appears to be working without leaks. My only concern is the socket wasn't in the best of shape...

Yup. Our ordinance states anything other than rain water is the drain is a violation. So technically even washing your car is against the law. I may try the hose thing since they're pretty cheap.

Going into the street would be ideal but we have ordinances against it. I could attach a backwash hose to it, but my goal is to get something I don't have to mess with anytime I want to backwash/drain.I know it wouldn't be that much hassle but I'm lazy. :)

So my backwash is hard piped and pops up just before my fence line. When backwashing or draining water from pool, it will work it's way under my fence and washes away the dirt causing it to flood and dirty up the sidewalk on the other side. I've tried putting sand and gravel along my fence line...

After research and talking to a knowledgeable friend. Going to try to seal up the point where wires enter the fixture (I believe this is where water is entering, if at all.) Also going to try to rebuild the socket since this one is heavily corroded. Will post results when done.

Alright. I'm trying to research on where else it could be leaking. I know one place is where the wiring enters the fixture, but I hear that it could be inside the niche as well. I'm trying to find a diagram on how the conduit and everything is setup to learn from. The only thing I'm unclear on...

I believe so. I was able to glue to porcelain pieces back together and reinstall it. That part looks good now. Got a new bulb and put it in, and it lit right up. My only concern is why my old brass socket connector got melted into the socket. I'm thinking some water got in there somewhere? I...

Opened up the pool light, the bulb twisted right out of the socket housing but with the mounting threads still inside, so it was very corroded. I ended up pulling it out of the socket housing, and it appears the white ring around where the bulb sits is also cracked. Not sure of the purpose to...

I agree that it's probably the light or bulb. I was a little confused on how to get the 12V after removing the splice at the junction box. I thought I would have 12V testing hot to ground, but I needed to test hot to neutral. On to pulling the light out and checking the bulb/socket next.

Yes, the switch was on otherwise I would receive no voltage at the junction box. I only receive full voltage when metering the hot and neutral together. Otherwise hot reads about 9 or 10V and neutral reads about 2V. I'm going to use an extension cord to bypass the junction box wiring tonight to...

Transformer voltage is reading correctly now. Had 1 wire switched. New problem though! When measuring at transformer output though, I get full voltage: 13.9V for 14V 12.9 V for 13V 12.0V for 12V But when measuring at the pool light junction box (about 2 feet from the actual light, and ~70ft...

That's how it should work yes, however, from the secondary side, I'm still receiving 120V, yellow 130V, and blue 140V.

To ground. When measured together, I get 120V. In your earlier post, you said 'black wire on the input side will always have 120V" - which wire are you talking about? The black wire on the input is connected to the 120V breaker, there isn't any other black wire - unless you meant the one you...

yes, checking the 2 output wires. 1 shows 120V and the other shows 0. The one that shows voltage jumps depending on which input voltage I have it set on. To add, I have the white neutral from the transformer hooked up to the white from the breaker. But this diagram shows it linked on the output...

UPDATE: Received a out-of-box but never used Intermatic PX300. New problem is voltage coming from the transformer. I have 120V coming from my breaker, when reading output, I get 120V on the 12V, 130V on the 13V and 140V on the 14V. Maybe my multimeter is bad? It's a cheap one. I'm going to use...

Thanks for the input! I want to say it's a halogen bulb if that makes a difference. I was testing at the transformer, and yes I believe the voltage at the light was a bit lower. Will double check today. Think I'll eventually get around to switching out the transformer to hopefully fix the issue.

I'd consider this issue solved. Bought the main drain adapter and a Hayward cover. With a few dozen breaths to the deep end, got it all installed. The only cosmetic issue I had is when screwing the cover down all the way, it has a slight bow to to and the cover doesn't lay completely flat...

Light in my pool is currently not working. Worked last season though. I have it ran through a 120v to 12/13/14V transformer. At this point, not sure of the light manufacturer as I've yet to pull it from the pool. When testing voltage today, I found that I do have 120v coming into the...

Just re-uploaded it. Nobody with SCUBA that I know. I've read suggestions of hiring somebody to drill some new holes. I know that's always an option (I think that's what originally occurred or they did it when the pool was drained.) I inspected it today and it looks like there is no external...