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Perhaps I'm misreading, but this isn't a vinyl pool less than 5' in depth, so I'm pretty sure I need a drain § 43A-13. Inlets And Outlets; Water Disposal., Article II. Pool Design And Construction., Chapter 43A. Swimming Pools, Volume Ii, Code of Ordinances, Dallas Yep! The pool rehab is...

Thanks y'all. Location is Dallas, TX. A main drain is required my code for some dumb reason, but it doesn't appear that two drains are. I suspect he's goosing the bill a bit there. I also reread everything, and this quote also includes pulling up the concrete around the pool. It's still...

Hi guys, it's been awhile! My pool has just been nearly maintenance free after going to a SWCG a couple of years ago. Check chems a couple of times a week, clean the filter a couple of times per year, done. However, it's a 32'x14' 1979 model and it's beyond time for a replaster. It needed...

Found it! Mrs Freqz is awesome. For the record, the not so Techni Al term for hootus is "the cap on the end of the bled air assembly" according to the pentair parts diagram I googled.

So I cleaned my filter cartridges: pollen season is winding down here so they were quite dirty. I pulled the accumulated hair and gunk off the mesh cap (hootus) on the pvc pipe sticking up between the cartridges and cleaned the filter as I normally do. Sometime between then and now that...

Home depot.

I use this and it works fine. When my pH is high I pour in a bit and the next day my pH is about where pool math says it should be. Just to reinforce the others: this is strong, nasty stuff in concentrated form. Please take precautions and wear your safety gear while dealing with it. Gloves...

I get it, but I'm an engineer so I'm used to dealing with busy UIs ;)

I think you're WAY over thinking this. Does your pool have a SWG? Yes? Then use the SWG minimum. No? Then your pool is "normal" and you use that minimum. Target a couple or three FC over your min. Absolutely no need to go over the upper end of the goal (10 in your case weather or not your...

LOTS going on there... 1) You're safe to swim up to shock levels. FC at 10 is no problem at CYA 80 2) At CYA 80 your minimum FC is 4. Stay above that to stay out of trouble. Disregard the SWG manual telling you that above 3ppm is unsafe. 3) 0.5 CC is no big deal. It should go away on...

You got it. :goodjob: Don't worry about PH just yet. 7.5 is fine. Worry about keeping FC at your shock level. More CYA after the SLAM could be good based on your daily consumption but wait until after the SLAM to monkey with it.

A kitchen or postal scale is the easiest way to measure. CYA is acidic but not overly strong. Just wear cleaning gloves (it's an easy enough precaution to take ;))

Yes. Get that test kit out and get your own numbers! A pool at CYA 50 is a little easier to manage than CYA 70. After that it gets a little more challenging... (and you're headed there quick with trichlor pucks!)

Chlorine decomposes into salt as it's used up. This is why SWCGs work without having to top the salt up constantly. That said, however, it takes a VERY LONG time to get enough salt to be noticeable from chlorine usage. I'd check your fill water for salt (or have it checked). If you're on...

When we were house shopping last year we found that a pool typically added between 7 and 10 thousand to the price of a house-- at least in the parts of Dallas we were shopping. That makes the ROI terrible for putting in an inground pool ;) I wasn't going to buy a house without one, though...

I'm convinced this is the only reason my dad was able to keep his pool in any manageable state back when I was a kid-- he'd backwash the tar out of that filter once a week or so. It was really a 10-15% water replacement weekly. I don't think that's the worst way to manage a pool if your water...

*You can go with automated liquid chlorine. I know we have an outfit around here that will deliver bulk 12.5% to commercial locations starting at 100 gallons...Maybe a couple of grand for the pump, automation, install, and tank? *Or you could switch to a cal-hypo feeder for the rest of the...

I'm reminded of this thread :)

Sure you can! Run the OCLT first to see if you have something eating your FC.

Exactly! The pool is a *prominent* feature not only in our backyard but for the house as well-- the house is literally built around the pool. (U shaped house with the pool in the middle of the U). I'd much rather scoop a few leaves during the winter than spend 6 months a year looking at a...

Composite = $$$ They're really, really proud of that stuff. I don't blame them-- it's good stuff. It'll last at least as long as the framing with very, very low maintenance. That said, $14,500 seems high.

I have lots of trees and get by without a cover just fine, TYVM. The only three things you must absolutely have with a pool is a good test kit, bleach, and pool noodles.

It's a lot easier now that everyone has a pretty good set of walkie talkies cell phones

EC??

If you have the K-2005 the only thing you really need is the FAS-DPD chlorine test. Buy it before you think you'll need to check chlorine levels over 5 ppm. :)

Almost there!

Not a whole lot to do...don't sweat it. If your yard doesn't drain really well you might make sure any choke points that could back up are cleared out. That's what happened to mine earlier this spring (and it did make a mess...)

Ditch the pucks...CYA is high enough as it is. (They don't go bad...save them for vacation or if you need a CYA touch up) Other than that looks pretty good to me. I'd swim in it :D

"Oh? I was supposed to turn the pump off? Oops."

I've never found it anywhere online that would ship it for less than $30 a gallon or so...I think you run into HAZMAT issues or something.