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id prefer not to drain. it wastes water wastes money. and it takes awhile to complete. it just happens to be most practical overall. id avoid using pucks. it is basically a mixture of chlorine and CYA. something like every 1 FC of chlorine from puck also adds 0.6ppm CYA. i think a puck is like...

in phoenix. about 3 years ago i got to this site and learned a lot. got the taylor kit and learned cya was so high i couldnt test it... because i had been adding nothing but pucks prior. my calcium was also like over 800. decided to drain and start over. 10,500 gallons. bill for water was only...

looking for the 'install kit'. can some advise an amazon link?

not really sure to be honest with you. i took a ton of pics during build, but they had the piping by the equipment covered up and done same-day, so it is guess on my end. california pools did my build and did a 'wave force' cleaning system. no vacuum. no infloor. basically multiple return jets...

thank for inputs. sounds like T15 is better choice. not worried about pvc. but what is the extent of electrical or wiring work? and does the swg need to be installed horizontal or vertical? only seen pics or videos in horizontal position.

so i have been doing straight muriatic acid, liquid chlorine, using taylor test kit, etc etc etc for the last 3 years. trouble free method has been great. but ive come to realize i am constantly adding chlorine... and it has just become an annoyance. especially with travel and coming home to...

Back to original question... are there specific chelating/sequestrant agents or products I could add to pool to offset the calcium? Might be more economical to use such a product to get CH closer to 300 again, then balance out with PH/TA. Online reading reminds me that calcium is actually a...

I don't have solar. If I had solar, in theory, my solar cells would be generating the electricity to power the pump and so I wouldn't be pulling power off the grid = free. Many people with solar actually produce more than they use, so under current rates, they are actually selling power back...

Test results as of today: FC 4.5 CC 0 PH 8+ TA 100 CH 600 CYA 40 I added 2 cups of acid, which should bring PH down to acceptable range. I had a horrible problem this last summer of CYA being 100+ --- how I learned about this forum and switching to chlorine instead of the trichlor pucks...

. Several months ago I emptied ~60-70% of the pool and the post-fill CH was 350ppm. I am in Arizona and our water is hard from the tap. So this seems to be about as low as I can go. Recently tested and am running at about 600ppm. Not sure how the CH increased, as I am only adding muriatic...

Running during day will just help circulate water --- keep it clean/filtered, even out the temperature, etc. Nice things. But it will come at a huge cost in your energy bill, that isn't worth it. I am in Phoenix on time of use (APS) and my rates increase between 12:00pm and 7:00pm. After 7pm...