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On the drains, does that mean the system must be designed such that you can't possibly configure for drain only (e.g. hard plumbed to at least one skimmer line) or only that I DON"T run it that way? Its nice to have valves on all the lines... I only plan on one drain. With the above scheme, I'd...

There are rumors of horror stories using zeolite, Amy suggestions how to avoid the 'cement block' problem?

One more question on safety hook up, I understand the drain should be connected to one other suction such that you can break vacuum if some thing our someone gets sucked in. But I also here people talking about running just their drain at times. Is this allowable per code, having valves that can...

I think the chemistry is that boric acid ifs a weak acid and will form a buffer Or a salt in high pH water, but it should move the pH down.

Ha, found a$40 fountain for an aerator ;-). Acid feeder, do they worth with muriatic? Well guy has been trying to sell me a citric acid one...

On the last comment, I have fill water at pH 8.5 and TA ~250 !!!. (Coming from a well, and I tested our tap water, but I'll confirm on fill). Just using some rough rules of thumb, I'm guessing that to get to what I need, I'm going to be putting 10s of gallons of muriatic in the pool? And If I...

Yeah, sorry about that, missed the drop down to select. Its a pretty strong ratio!

I Would guess so, but can't find them!

Cool, what ratio of borax to boric acid?

In the process of putting a new one in in next couple of weeks. Thanks for the confidence builder!

I found this link to 99.9% pure boric acid http://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?qu ... 4AodPwcAmA and wonder if I can use that instead of borax. I've read reference to it in some posts, but nothing direct. I think I need about 10% less of boric acid. Plus there is the avoided effort and cost of...

Similar question, no solar, but want a timer/controller for the 2-speed pump. I'd like to run timed modes low and high speed and manual to high speed. No solar or other concerns, but do what the SWG cell on when it runs.

We are rebuilding an old pool, which currently has zero plumbing in the walls, concrete, 40x18 ft, 30,000gal. One long wall of the pool is exposed (its on a hill) while the rest is buried. We are thinking two skimmers, opposite corners of the long sides. To minimize digging, we'd like just to...

:-D Bored, I like that! Getting it running without first then sounds like the plan.

OK, sounds good, just was trying to avoid so much chlorine. With such high TA (250) to start, I'm going to be adding a lot of acid then bringing back up the pH. Since I want to do borates, should I just use borax to get pH back up?

One last topic on this restart, you folks have been very helpful. As I mentioned, we're starting with well water (which appears to be very soft but high pH, odd combo), and one aspect of this well has been periodic need to shock the well to remove 'iron algea' which I believe is actually iron...

Just got my test kit and tested the well water for TA (250!!) and CH(30). I'm going to need a lot of muriatic acid. I'm also going to need a lot of CaCl2, my question is since I'm using SWG, will this reduce my total salt need since there's another source of chloride ions?

Thanks for the info, yes, we have cleaned up the pool and are patching now. It would be a good time to cut skimmer(s) and lay pipe. The layout of the pool has an exposed wall on one side, cutting returns or skimmers in there would be easy, but I suspect that we would want them to be on opposite...

Yep, I'm old:-) while I'm here, suggestions on filter size and pump power? pool is 40 x 18 ft roughly, and I caninstall 1 or 2 skimmers. thinking 2 right now. PS, iron was .07 mg/l, issue?

I don't have abnormal iron (not sure about other metals) but there is a trace, is that something to worry about?

So, its going to take a few days to fill, should I pour bleach in right away as the pool is filling? Also be doing what I can on water balance? Or should I go with a shock profile and let it chill out. I'm filling from a well.

Thanks, after reading a bit more, it seems like SWG with borates is the way to go balancing cost and maintenance effort. Love the resources on this site!

Yep, I had a pool a long time ago, back before CYA. Liked the BBB write up as I've always thought there wasn't a diff in the chemicals. PS, while on the topic, how does BAQUACIL compare cost and maintenance-wise?

Fair enough, just meant that nothing in the BBB profile lowered pH. Sounds like muriatic is the way to go. Any recommendations on the other questions? Thanks!

I have an inground concrete block pool, about 18x40 ft avg depth around 6 (steep drop off on shallow end). It has been painted with a blue rubbery paint, but that's peeling off. We are power washing the paint, filling all the cracks with hydrolic cement, etc. First question, should I just paint...