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Also, is it not recommended to swim in the water during a lowering of the CSI? I am trying to be safe :) I must first explain my confusing talk here. Trying to learn the lingo. What I mean, is to lower my TA since between all this blasted rain and the water changes due to excess vacuuming to...

I came across this in one of the pool school sections and I am wondering what you experts think about my situation and if it is relative to my situation by any means. CSI Calcium Saturation Index LSI Langelier Saturation Index CSI and LSI are two similar measures of calcium saturation in the...

I haven't used any cal hypo. Our water here is at a pretty hi level for hardness and I assume that the water not moving and being closed for so long gave it time to settle and adhere. Thank you for your suggestion

ok, gonna just poke a little more, maybe someone will see this and say they had a similar situation and found an easier fix than what I have come up with, aside from harping on me for proper test results before hearing what they actually are. MY pool was closed for more than 2 seasons, that...

Also, I am doing my best to maintain the suggested levels as read in the abc's and the other helpful posts in this website. Part of the entire process is understanding what everything is and what it does and at first I was lost but I am coming around. I am getting an understanding and like I...

yes, cya is 20-30 and FC is 10 ph is 7.6-7.8 c.c. does not show a different number than the FC. I backwash sometimes 4-5 time per day even if the filter is running at a normal pressure. For me normal is between 11-15 psi. I get dirty mud like color in the sight glass and then I rinse. I tried...

The mud is splotchy. I have vacuumed a lot of the river silt off the bottom of the shallow end and the white stuff I cant tell without getting in the pool if it is is crusty or soft. The pool is currently at shock levels with the chlorine. I have only tried to use a wall brush to move this white...

after a long battle with my pool, I am beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel. My pool was green for almost a month mostly due to the fact that first I had a bad motor that needed replacing, so there was that entire duration that the algae bloom was at its best. I then had a leak...

I will have to look into this further then. The channeling thing probably isn't the issue since I rinse after every backwash (as suggested to me). I guess I will tear it apart but I wont know what the bottom half of the filter looks like with it full of sand. I will only be able to see if...

also, I should point out that I tried to add some DE to the filter and it passed right through and was entering the pool via returns

Thing is I do not know the age of the sand in the filter. could be a decade for all I know and, this pool suffered a flood of river water from storm Irene. I have been shocking it for roughly 4 days keeping the shock numbers at the proper level based on the chart I looked at on here. my TC is no...

ok, I need a little help here. I am thinking a lot of my pool problem clearing is due to inactive/outdated sand. I just spoke to a friend of the family and he said he went to a pool store and felt the way the pool stores sand felt in his hands, he then went to Home Depot (local home improvement...

well I thank you SmyKowski, and maybe I got lucky, but based on a level of 0 CYA, I put in enough CYA to bring it up 10 ppm (based on package instructions for a pool my size) and I tested it and it showed that my CYA was in the comfort area of 30. Maybe a week from now it will have increased...

I tried the pool calculator and a few other helpful spots on here to come up with my calculations. I know the cya is needed to prolong the effectiveness of the FC but I was liking how quickly the FC level rose up to 10 ppm. I have added CYA recently by placing it in a sock and setting it in the...

I stand corrected. I just tested it and the chlorine had dropped to between 3-5 ppm. I added another roughly another gallon and I will test in an hour

ok, I had some serious issues with a leaky return. I fixed the return and I have resumed the water clearing of algae. I purchased the more affordable test kit (k-2005) and I see that it doesnt read above 5 ppm of chlorine. Are there kits that register higher? Reason I ask is because I read, and...

ok, bare with me on this... I just went all over the place for parts. I pressure tested the entire return line and even with a plug in the return that has been a nightmare from the start, I see it is leaking by. I was able to look at the jet without the male to male insert on it and I noticed...

I will give my pressure test theory a try. not that I will hear the hiss of a leaking line, but I think trying this prior to digging is still my best option. Thank you for the advice Charlie and everyone else who chimed in

I am thinking the best chance I can have is a hairline fracture somewhere in the skimmer drain. Think about it... There was no gizmo or any ice compensator in the skimmer well for 2 years or more. I am no expert but what is the purpose of the gizmo? I understand that it alleviates the pressures...

worst case scenario, can I drain the pool to get at the drain? The pool place near me said "NEVER drain a vinyl lined pool"

I am understanding that no air, meaning only water should be coming from the returns. I have a small spurt that comes from the first inline return, and I am having a hard time seeing if the stair return is having similar spurts. I looked at the filter and I can hardly tell that there is even...

ok, so the underground locator.. I guess I feel pretty dumb right now because I see it finds where your underground pipes and conduit are located. Based on the repair I did on the 1st inline return that I dug up, the tee where it tee's off was on the outside of the concrete [/url][/img]

so the main drain leaking wouldn't suck air into the pump basket? I may get lucky in that the pipes seem to follow along the outside of the concrete. I am guessing the pool had leaked once before and they decided to put the piping on the outside of the concrete. I suppose I could make a fitting...

so, last night, we got rain here. The reason I point this out, is because I had water loss while circulating with rain fall. I guesstimate that I lost about 4 inches of water from 6pm to 5 am while circulating. I don't even know where to start with this project.. The water is green so I cant see...

ok, was just curious. I wouldn't of recommended it on a regular basis. was just thinking you could loosen that the union just slightly enough to take on air. I have seen people put stuff together pretty crappy over the years and (not necessarily in pool pumps) achieved this very problem by mistake.

Ty BoDarville

I read a post recently about people lowering there ph and then raising it up with aerating. Forgive me because I know I am missing an important part of the chemistry. anyway, I watched a youtube video yesterday that sparked an idea. It was a person showing how a wrongly placed O-ring was making...

ok, well like I said, that was just for a gauge. I got home and I would say that I lost roughly 1/8th to a 1/4 inch from the pool with the pump off and water still. Today I started the pump, noting that the tape to water mark is roughly the distance above apart from each other. I do have...

So..., if I go home and see that after 24 hours (today was around 70, partly sunny) and my pool is down 1 inch, is this too much? Just trying to gauge my evaporation without doing the bucket test.

I read somewhere on the internet (possibly wiki) that the reason DE works well with filtration is because of a few reasons, 1 being that it is a form of silica that is high is porosity, meaning it has many holes in it, but the diatoms are very close together so water passes through easy but...