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Boom! Thank you! (thank you all) Why I ignored the "stand with your sun at your back" all these times, I'll never know. That did the trick - the extra lighting made the solution appear less translucent. Filling the tube to the 50 mark, then moving to where the dot disappears, was excellent...

[Update: My technique was wrong - tftestkit 50ppm CYA sample was a big help. See my follow-up post below if interested in this subject; otherwise ignore this post.] I purchased a bottle of CYA 50ppm water sample from tftestkits and did the block dot tests several times as a sanity check...

Update: after six months of use (4-6 hours/day) they are holding up fine. No issues.

I purchased a second one as I have a 12-valve setup. The second one had slightly different markings (raised lettering with instructions, numbers, etc.), so not consistent. Maybe these are rebuilt? Either way, working great so far (a few days).

Purchased and installed. Exact replica and perfect fit. I pulled on the valves and they responded as expected - appears to be at least equal quality as oem. Running smooth so far and controlling individual popups with no bleeding over into other lines/popups.

Any experience with aftermarket Paramount water valves (PCC2000) such as this one? They are half the price of an OEM and look tempting. There are just a handful of reviews on Amazon. 6-Port Module Kit for Paramount Water Valve, Replacement Part for 004-302-4408-00 with Valve Shell O-Ring...

I fixed my issue with the above hack - the diagram was very helpful. Warning to future DIYers: the above schematic represents everything at the IC-40 and NOT the transformer box. (There are black/red/green/white wires in the cord leading from the wall box to the IC - take it from me, those are...

Had to drain/fill due to very high CYA and mustard algae. Should I SLAM before bringing my CYA up to recommended? It's essentially 0 now. Assuming that will save me some chlorine during the SLAM process?

Subject says it all. we will drain this winter, Phoenix is 106 right now, don’t want to crack plaster, etc). Questions: turn off SWG? It’s not making a dent, in fact, came here because I thought it was broken I keep dumping in chlorine and brushing just to keep the algae it at bay at this...

No winterizing in Phoenix, but good to note.

Mike, Most are for in-floor cleaning system. -Bob

That was there when I started - from the guys that made the mess to begin with! :wink:

Here's the finished job. I used an expansion coupling from HD/Lowe's (thanks gordiec, great tips in that video) -- but in hindsight I should have done four 90's -- as it was a little difficult to push the last couple together and get a 1/4" turn. Not too bad, just would have been easier with 4...

I decided against trying to patch it thanks to your advice and wanted to follow-up in case someone does this to themselves in the future. Once we dug out enough earth and really exposed the area, I decide to call a few pool guys I knew to see if they knew someone that could fix it. I...

I like this idea. Do you think PVC glued over the top would be stronger that epoxy? I can't get a clamp around due to the mass of tightly surrounding pipes, but may be able to apply pressure another way. Or, I may be able to thread an adjustable band type clamp and just leave it there.

I drove a 2’ rebar (stake) into the ground and right through a section of buried PVC - one of the lines that feeds an in-ground pop-up. After draining the pool below the line's water level, I dug up the area to repair the pipe -- HOWEVER, it's surrounded tightly by about 15 other pipes...

Ok, CYA now 60! But, CH is 550. I'm going to search for others with high CH and will post a new post with the numbers if I can't find answers. Thanks again.

Drained and now filling 20%... Wow, a jug/day? I had no idea - seems like justification for fixing my SWG (new cell). No?

Great ideas, I only wish I'd waited to read these before heading to Home Depot. I removed the swg and added this 3" to 1.5" rubber fitting with a piece of PVC to clamp the hose to. It worked great but would rather have the drain plug valve! [attachment=0:213rvfzm]image.jpg[/attachment:213rvfzm]

Google search led me back to tfp for some answers on "normal" pool water and plants: safe-to-backwash-into-the-lawn-t6740.html

Actually, may not be a bad idea because one could calculate gallons per min instead of eyeballing water level...

Need to drain 20% of my pool. Ok to water plants with this? In dry Phoenix where plants could use. TF-100 test kit: FC 0.5 CC 0 TC 0.5 TA 170 CH 800 CYA 100+ K-1000 basic test kit: pH 7.8

I don't know, it's mostly bone dry here in Phoenix.

I need to drain about 20% of my pool and refill with tap water to lower CYA. However, it's a closed system with a cartridge filter - no backwash tap. Do I just rig something up such as remove the swg cell and redirect the flow via a backwash hose? I can restrict intake to just the drain with...