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The breaker serves only one pump. No incidents since, so hopefully a fluke.

All pool breakers are Siemens (picture attached). ~1 year old.

~36 hours now and nothing obvious. What troubleshooting is advised? ETA: I noticed the pump was off around 3am Thursday morning.

Alarm emails in the middle of the night saying “no flow”. I eventually determined the next morning that the breaker for that pump had tripped. Should I blow this off unless it happens again or is further research needed?

I have a camera that JUST misses those valves. Might have to reposition. lol

“Is it plugged in?”:whistle: The valve was closed. I didn’t realize I had independent control over each bubbler. One of the dogs must’ve done it. At least it was simple. Thanks for the help.

I don’t know the make/model. They’re facing up in 9” of water. I can unscrew a retainer and remove the aiming piece. That doesn’t accomplish anything though.

I have two bubblers on a tanning ledge. They’re plumbed to the same pump as my returns. One is not flowing water. I believe everything was normal yesterday. Covering the one that’s running with my hand does not produce flow at the other. What’s my best bet to clear it? I do have a pressure...

Random people showing up at random times in my backyard during pool construction convinced me I wanted no part of ongoing “pool maintenance”. Lack of control was second. Cost was a distant third.

Interesting. I haven't actually used the heater yet (well, once last year for a few hours to verify it worked). I don't actually recall whether the salt cell was turned on yet at that point.

This site almost unanimously advises a salt cell 2x its pool volume. Hayward's biggest cell is 40k gallons, so 1.67x my pool volume. My impression had been that I was slightly undersized, but "close enough". So I understand, you're saying the fact that I have a heater flips this on its...

If the test can't be fully relied upon either, then how do I know when to add salt? I thought 3200ppm was ideal. Maybe the range is broader than I thought?

I guess that's "good", and it would make sense since the cell was only used for the first time last September. Disappointing to learn that "instant salt" isn't what it says, but it makes sense. I'll use it as outlined in the link and continue to evaluate salinity with my tests. Thanks

It's pretty consistently off by a few hundred ppm with the Hayward always reading higher than the actual salinity. Looking at the link posted above, I take that to mean my cell is >100%.

My test shows 2800ppm and instant reading shows 3443. Is it reasonable that my OmniLogic should display an accurate salt reading? 23% difference seems pretty significant.

If I'm understand correctly , the shaking is aeration, like "pointing jets up" or "running water features", and causes pH to rise. Interesting.

What are the results from your TF-Pro? FC: 7.5 CC: 0 pH: 7.1 (estimate based on slightly below the 7.2, but well above the 6.8 indicators) TA: 60 CH: 325 CYA: <30, I guess? Filled tube, dot was still visible, but cloudy. Water temperarure: 53F

I should have retested just prior to adding acid, but trusted my earlier 8.2+ reading. I'll make smaller adjustments in the future. Pool volume was calculated using the water meter upon filling the pool. I'm confident in that number.

Thanks. Yes, when others recommended baking soda over soda ash, I looked and see it's available at walmart, home depot, etc. for cheap.

The purpose of the store test was because my home test from several days earlier showed a very high (8.2+) pH and then, within minutes of adding acid, showing a very low (-6.8) pH. When I returned for soda ash, I brought water to have another pH result. Their result was 6.7, which only...

Thanks. Sounds like I’m not risking imminent damage by waiting a bit. I’ll measure for the next few days and respond with baking soda if ph is still low.

An hour after the acid, I drove to Leslie’s (where I bought the acid) for soda ash. He didn’t want to sell me any until I waited a few days for things to settle. I took water with me. Here’s that test.

I tested a few days ago and ph was off the scale high. Added acid. Too much I think. Maybe the test the other day was wrong.

How long would a pH of 6.8 take to cause damage to plaster, plumbing and/or equipment? Do I need to run to Walmart tonight for soda ash, or is this something that could wait until tomorrow or this weekend? How about 6.5? I know there's an ideal range, but I haven't seen a chart or anything...

If you have automation, you can see your consumption in real-time.

Nervous as I was headed out of town, so I called for repair. Shaft/mechanical seal was the culprit. He had one on his truck and is replacing it now.