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Like I said, it seems to "get the job done." I assume that the lack of complete prime, if not a suction leak, is due to lower flow rate, meaning that it's not a problem per se, and I'll just need to probably run a bit longer to get the same turnover. Is this an accurate analysis?

Due to unintentional negligence (pump running dry) that I didn't previously have to be concerned with when I was living where the pool is--I just had to address a squealing pump for the second time since 2022. The first time, I replaced the motor to save $, but I remembered it being such a pain...

Wow, good eye! I'll give it a little adjustment. Thanks.

Got it!!! Thank you!! https://photos.app.goo.gl/cMf5MdJZ7doC9ZrC7

I taped the back of a box end wrench so the nut wouldn't just pop out (see pic) but seeing the back of the board I now understand why it was virtually impossible to position the wrench close enough for the screw to reach the nut. Thanks for those pics. Removing the board will help for sure...

It looks like there is already a built in nut on the back of the hole. I can't get into a position to see the back of the other hole to compare. Trying to imagine holding another nut in place behind the hole while tightening screw. Sound idea for sure, but won't be easy.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjJVUqJfQdJAmLDu6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/hSpmGEK2UeByUdRL7

I replaced the motor on my pump and now I'm reinstalling. I successfully connected one of the two leads, but I was having difficulty seating the other lead under the screw that tightens down to hold it in place, so I removed the screw completely to make it easier to position the lead wire under...

I was about to say I realized it wasn't mustard algae because it is in a location of direct sunlight (as is most of my pool, which I guess bodes well for mustard algae prevention). I took a stiffer brush to the stuff on the step, and it starts to come off, so it is clearly some sort of stain. No...

Is this mustard algae? A stiff-bristled brush won't get up what is on the step, and my pool brush won't get it up what is on the bottom of the pool. on step on bottom of pool

I know these "pool store potions" are not recommended by TFP, because they are not needed with the BBB method (which has served me well since I joined the first spring in this house), but the previous owner left some. They have been sitting for years, because I am somewhat of a hoarder, and it...

I think it's just the angle of the picture that makes the wall look recessed. This picture verifies that. The resistance when I lift clearly has something to do with the wall, though. I pulled up again today and water started leaking through the wall, I think through the bottom of where it goes...

Here are two photos that show the planned slope of the patio. photo 1 photo 2 I'm guessing I just need to raise the skimmer until the lid is in line with the patio slope, right? Still wondering whether the way it is screwed into the pool wall is restricting movement.

The wall is bulged in (out actually). There are a lot of places around the perimeter of the pool where the coping transition is way off. The guy that told me the skimmer should be lifted also told me that the metal rods that connect the pool wall to the long stakes are normally installed with...

Okay, so I'm finally down to the pipe. When I try to pull up, it moves about an inch, but then there is a lot of resistance. I may just need to move some more dirt to give enough clearance for the horizontal run to shift away from the pool, but I just want to make sure I don't have to worry...

Thanks! When you say stone, can you be more specific? I'm picturing large stone beneath the pipe, and it doesn't really matter what goes on top of the pipe. What if I put a chunk of broken concrete (from demolition of old patio) under the line every foot or so up to the elbow? Will the space...

Appears to be rigid pipe. photo 1 photo 2 Also, the clay got really moist when I got down to the level where I could actually see the pipe. (Possible leak? Pool water level isn't dropping particularly fast. Maybe 1-1.5 in/week in direct sun if I had to guess.) Now what?

I just started digging and it occurred to me that in order to level the skimmer, I'm going to have to dig up the entire route to the pump. Otherwise, the pipe between the skimmer and the pump, regardless of the type, won't budge to allow the skimmer to level out. Am I right?

From what I've read, I hope it's rigid. I can't imagine anyone installing something underground that bugs can actually eat through! As poorly as this pool was constructed, though, I wouldn't be surprised if it's flexible. I guess in this specific instance it could be to my advantage with that...

Thanks. I'll start digging. How will I know whether it is rigid or flex?

The pool contractor who "partners" with the guy replacing my concrete told me that I needed to raise my sagging skimmer back level with the top of my pool. He said it is putting stress on the plumbing beneath it. Makes sense, but isn't PVC pretty flexible? I actually think it has been like this...

So apparently I am working with 2 contractors, one for concrete, and one for pool stuff. Now that the old concrete has been removed, the concrete guy has to wait for the pool guy to do his thing. The pool guy came out Saturday and said i could go without bonding if I replaced the metal ladder...

Thanks. I can't imagine myself asking the contractor not to do it anyway, but I was simply wondering "so far so good" applied and whether the rebar would negate the "so far so good" idea by adding a new variable. From what I have read it seems like the electric potential between, for example...

We are having our deck redone. The original concrete had no reinforcement (mesh or rebar) and there was no bonding wire. Should this be a shock, or is this common? To my knowledge, no one has ever experienced any feeling of electrical current anywhere in or near the pool. I am wonding if since...

The SWG clearly isn't the right tool for boosting FC level quickly, and convenience is definitely the biggest benefit of having one, but from my experience, running the SWG for the extra time costs significantly less than adding bleach if the boost doesn't have to be sudden (e.g. for a SLAM)...

The SWG isn't the right tool for boosting FC level quickly, but running the SWG for the extra time is likely actually cheaper than adding bleach if the boost doesn't have to be sudden, even factoring in the cost of cell replacement, particulary if you purchased an oversized cell. If cell...

Good answer! Finally took cover off today. Cover itself needs thorough cleaning. Water is indeed almost clear, but based on what I see, once I get a brush to the pool, I predict enough increase in pressure to require at least one backwash!

Good point about the water temp. From experience, cell does generate more chlorine when water is warm, but between 50-60 degrees, I don't remember production being negligible. That said, I realize I made two mistakes in the original post, which lessen dramatically my concern. First, the SWG at...

Installed SWG and tested water chemistry yesterday for the first time since fall of last year. (Early April is usually my first spring test, when the water temperature is in the mid 50's.) FC level was down to 0, which is not unexpected, and not too alarming as long as chlorine is introduced...

I inspected the spider gasket this morning, just to rule that out, and it was fine. Should I be able to hear water in the multiport while pump is running? It seems like if the system is airtight, there would be no audible sloshing in the multiport, or is this a sign of there is an air bleed...