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That's scenario is basically what I'm hoping for, only difference was I left the FC get HIGH in the fall, thinking that I'd allow it to drop slowly over winter.

There must have been a sale when I bought the 35 lbs, it was listed at 169.99, coming out to a bit under 5 bucks per pound. Had pondered getting less, but then the price seemed to jump up quite a bit. Honestly, I'll probably not have to buy tablets again if I'm just using this over the winter...

Thank you everyone. My FC is holding stable right now, but I have noticed my cya drop a bit. I think I'll hold off for now, but once I start seeing FC drop a bit I'll give the tablets a shot.

Alright. 35lbs of chlorine tablets and a rubber ducky float on the way. Now to figure out how much.

Looks good, also looks like the 35 lb bucket is on sale. That should last me many many winters.

Apologizes I misspoke, I meant chlorine only ie no clarifier or algaecide. Chlorine is a gas normally so it need something to bind to make it solid, and the CYA is the reason to avoid using tablets full time. In my case, the CYA actually might help me a bit, as I find I always have to add a bit...

Thank you. Now the challenge might be to find chlorine tablets without the additional extras, seems all I can find locally are the same HTN tablets with the algaecide and clarifier. Edit: forgive me, but it looks like Leslies might have chlorine only tablets...not terrible pricing either.

Our winters are very short, but there is a few weeks that the SWG is no longer producing because of the lower water temperature. I also find in the spring I have to end up adding quite a bit of CYA to bring the levels up. Because of these two factors I'm considering utilizing some chlorine...

Curious if anyone has experience with this nozzle, it would appear that you should get more pressure and thereby more aeration. https://www.azpoolsupplies.com/75mpt-white-round-aerator/

Last plug in, and I can get pretty good distance and aeration with as little as 30 gpm.

All returns blocked except one, I ran out of plugs. With the new aerator nozzle and all the returns blocked except one I'm getting pretty good height/distance now at 60 gpm. Going to pick up another plug and see what I can get with 20 gpm.

Picked up another aerator nozzle, distance is increased. Still not as much as I'd expect with it going 140 gpm. I guess I'll continue blocking the returns.

So I blocked another return, this one was painful. The tabs actually broke off the ring that retains the nozzle. Is there a tool specific to remove these? they are a PITA. So with this return blocked I'm still seeing not very much volume with the aerator even with the pump going 140 gpm. I can...

Not much of an increase in aerator volume with two of the returns closed. Still four of the returns still open. At this point it's either I need to close most of the returns or I need to consider that the aerator nozzle is just too large.

Flush mount eyeball fittings are a PITA. There's a total of 7 returns, and it looks like 6 of them are in the aerator circuit. I plan on plugging one to two to start and see how much increased pressure I get from that.

Just realized that the return jets are flush mounted eyeball fittings. Which means I should be able to remove the eyeball and find a thread to plug it easier. This should work in raising the pressure a little to get the aerator working more efficiently.

Thank you, that's the post I have open to put together an aerator with a sump pump. It certainly looks effective, and I'm definitely considering it, but it would be nice to get the built in aerator working.

So with the current heat the pool has gotten into the 90s (based on the SWG, above ground pipes). Because of this we've started looking into potentially how to bring the temperature down. The pool has two pumps, one that runs the majority of the system, and one that purely runs a waterfall...

with the 10k ohm resistor the temperature still reads 60 degrees, kinda expected at this point as even with no sensor it reads 60 degrees. So likely the board is gone. Interesting problem, the heater does still work, it just doesn't stop as the temperature doesn't change. I'm almost tempted to...

The thermister in the heater is reading 14 ohms, the new one is reading ~9 ohms. Wiring has no resistance, ohm readings are the same through the wires at the motherboard. I need to see if I have a 10k resistor to even test, radioshacks are a bit on the rare side now. EDIT: well that's...

Alright, some more work. I replaced the ignitor because the rodents chewed up the wiring to it. During this I started the heater and it fired up normally. Temperature still stays at 60, sometimes dropping to 59. After 20 minutes, the SWG was reporting 88 degrees, but the heater still hanging...

After evicting mickey and minnie from our max e therm, I had to resolder the wires to the high limit switch and the thermister and a yellow wire off the control board. After this I put some chicken wire up on the upper vents, and then stuffed a bunch of steel wool into the front and rear...

Still learning with this pool. Hadn't realized I could reduce the pool pump running time during the "winter" when the temperature of the water dropped below 55 degrees, as the SWG would stop producing chlorine. Realizing this I went ahead and dropped the pump timing at 20 gpm to 5 hours instead...

FC 10, pH 7.4, Ta 80. Since the RJ produces a little over 3x more than the truclear I think 30-40% is likely where it'll end up, so I'm backing down to 40%. As this thread has strayed quite a bit from the original intent, I think I'm going to go ahead and leave this post to the archives at...

RJ-60 is in. I didn't add any chlorine last night and just ran it from for about 16 hours at 75%. Dialed back to 60%. FC 8.0, pH 7.6, Ta 80. Added acid to bring pH down to 7.2 to push Ta down. CSI, unless I fat fingered, 0.05.

Odd, water temperature is roughly 85 degrees F, when I put those numbers in yesterday I swear I got 0, but I must have fat fingered something. I intend to drop Ta further to 70 after getting pH to rise, that should get my CSI in a better position. RJ-60 appears to have been delivered so I'll be...

With a CH this high, it looks like I'll need to keep the Ta and pH pretty tight, or have to explore ways to fill the pool with lower CH water.

CH 600, salt 3400, cya 70, pH 7.2, Ta 80 With this CSI is now 0.

I'm a bit suspect of the CH, as that a major rise since the last reading at 575. There is an automatic filler, and I know the fill water is likely to be high CH but I didn't think it was that high, and there's been a few storms passing through the last few weeks. With the CH that high the CSI...

Fc 4.5, CC 0, Ta 90, pH 8.0, calcium 675. I've been adding liquid chlorine everyday to keep the fc up. It's been about 2 weeks since the borates was added, so a rise to 90 Ta and pH 8.0 does appear to have slowed the rise a bit. I'll check CYA and salt tomorrow during the day. I'll probably be...