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with the 10k ohm resistor the temperature still reads 60 degrees, kinda expected at this point as even with no sensor it reads 60 degrees. So likely the board is gone. Interesting problem, the heater does still work, it just doesn't stop as the temperature doesn't change. I'm almost tempted to...

The thermister in the heater is reading 14 ohms, the new one is reading ~9 ohms. Wiring has no resistance, ohm readings are the same through the wires at the motherboard. I need to see if I have a 10k resistor to even test, radioshacks are a bit on the rare side now. EDIT: well that's...

Alright, some more work. I replaced the ignitor because the rodents chewed up the wiring to it. During this I started the heater and it fired up normally. Temperature still stays at 60, sometimes dropping to 59. After 20 minutes, the SWG was reporting 88 degrees, but the heater still hanging...

After evicting mickey and minnie from our max e therm, I had to resolder the wires to the high limit switch and the thermister and a yellow wire off the control board. After this I put some chicken wire up on the upper vents, and then stuffed a bunch of steel wool into the front and rear...

Still learning with this pool. Hadn't realized I could reduce the pool pump running time during the "winter" when the temperature of the water dropped below 55 degrees, as the SWG would stop producing chlorine. Realizing this I went ahead and dropped the pump timing at 20 gpm to 5 hours instead...

FC 10, pH 7.4, Ta 80. Since the RJ produces a little over 3x more than the truclear I think 30-40% is likely where it'll end up, so I'm backing down to 40%. As this thread has strayed quite a bit from the original intent, I think I'm going to go ahead and leave this post to the archives at...

RJ-60 is in. I didn't add any chlorine last night and just ran it from for about 16 hours at 75%. Dialed back to 60%. FC 8.0, pH 7.6, Ta 80. Added acid to bring pH down to 7.2 to push Ta down. CSI, unless I fat fingered, 0.05.

Odd, water temperature is roughly 85 degrees F, when I put those numbers in yesterday I swear I got 0, but I must have fat fingered something. I intend to drop Ta further to 70 after getting pH to rise, that should get my CSI in a better position. RJ-60 appears to have been delivered so I'll be...

With a CH this high, it looks like I'll need to keep the Ta and pH pretty tight, or have to explore ways to fill the pool with lower CH water.

CH 600, salt 3400, cya 70, pH 7.2, Ta 80 With this CSI is now 0.

I'm a bit suspect of the CH, as that a major rise since the last reading at 575. There is an automatic filler, and I know the fill water is likely to be high CH but I didn't think it was that high, and there's been a few storms passing through the last few weeks. With the CH that high the CSI...

Fc 4.5, CC 0, Ta 90, pH 8.0, calcium 675. I've been adding liquid chlorine everyday to keep the fc up. It's been about 2 weeks since the borates was added, so a rise to 90 Ta and pH 8.0 does appear to have slowed the rise a bit. I'll check CYA and salt tomorrow during the day. I'll probably be...

The third party that processes credit card payments for them flagged the transaction. My credit card company had the charge go pending as normal (monday and tuesday), and then it came off pending to being a charge as of this morning.

After spending some time collecting myself I again tried to speak to someone. So Sonny's main position is fraud. After hearing this I suppose you can't totally lay the blame on one person. If you're dealing with fraud everyday then unfortunately, the skeptical side of you beings looking at...

Oh, I didn't really expect it to be sent out on the weekend, as I ordered it at 11:30p Sunday night. I added two day shipping to try to get it by Wednesday or Thursday. When the verification came through it mentioned 1-2 days so I chalked it up to the verification coming through on Wednesday and...

I called back to speak to someone regarding the call and spoke with Ashley, and was told that someone would call me back. And well Sonny called me back. I asked to speak with someone else and he told me he was it. He then told me that he could cancel the order or re-instate is. He told me that...

Interesting experience with Discount salt water pools. Still no verification was sent at this time. I've checked online and called my credit card department for the past few days. So I called again today, spoke with Sonny, apparently a general manager. Honestly, surprisingly a pretty rude...

Always seem to be that way. Had been hoping to have it here by Wednesday since I paid for two day shipping, but at this point I haven't even gotten the verification to submit, so getting it here by even by Friday is starting to look somewhat doubtful.

Order managed to get snagged by fraud prevention...so now crossing fingers to have by the weekend.

Never enough to just be satisfied with good enough, I put the order in for the rj-60 yesterday evening. Should be here midweek.

That is a very good point. From that point of view the RJ45 would likely be good enough. The RJ60 would probably be enough to end up shocking the pool if I want to in the future. While this isn't money that I wanted to spend right now, I knew that the cell was on it's way out, so this at least...

Fc 3.5, cc 0.5, ta 70, pH 7.6. So Fc heading for the deck...Will need to supplement until the new swg gets here. Looks like the discountsaltpool "sale" ends tonight at midnight. On the brighter side of things, the Ta and pH remains relatively steady for the main topic of this post borates do...

As I was reading before it looks like the rj-60 stands out in terms of warranty and chlorine production. If the pool is really a 20,000 gallon pool then I might be able to get away with the rj45 (good up to 45,000 gallons). Looks like roughly a $200 difference. Though the Jandy truclear is...

Now truclear saying "check cell" and clicking every few seconds. There is no gas in the sight glass on the actual cell. Sooooo I guess I'm buying a new SWG

Truclear had a low salt/low temp error, reset cleared it. I may be shopping for a SWG sooner rather than later. FC 6.5, CC 1.0, Ta 70, pH 7.6. Normally my pH would have gone up by 0.2 daily, so this does appear to be an improvement.

Yes about a week ago I tested for borates and came up with 0.

From what I've been reading the borates will help buffer the raise in Ta and pH. There are some other side effects that I'm hoping will translate as well, ie less chlorine use, less build up on the SWG. The further softening of water and sparkling are still positive though less so. Because of...

Thanks for that. In all reality I'm likely over estimated on the pool volume, but admittedly it has worked ok for measuring out acid and chlorine. I'm probably going to split the difference for now at 20,000 gallons and see if the measurements for acid and chlorine end up making sense. As for...

FC 7.5, cc 0.5, ta 70, ph 7.4. Interestingly enough after adding 40 lbs of boric acid my borates level is coming up as 48 ppm, so I likely have over estimated the pool volume by quite a bit. I had thought that I had 25,000 gallons but that was completely a guess, but pool math said that it...

Watched a few vids and people have added the borates when their ta was 80 and ph 8.0. I'm going to worry a bit less about it. Ta at 70 should still be pretty stable and it'll give me a chance to see if borates does slow down the pH and Ta rise.