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I think it depends on your system. If you have an automatic cover or a solar cover, then floaters do not work well and chlorine will be poorly disbursed. If they are in the skimmer, the pump should be running 24/7 and ideally you have a variable pump and can run low rpm.

Best option is to make the pool deeper. Is it vinyl or gunite? If it is fiberglass then you will have larger issues. If the excavator is concerned about the slope to the deep end, then you need to discuss with the builder on appropriate slopes. Do you have room to make the pool larger?

Our pool in Minnesota has a 300K BTU gas furnace and we only get about 1-1.5 degrees an hour. Ensure your heater can stay on for 4-6 hours in a row without issue and your pool is warming. That should give you reassurance that you have no issues with the heater.

I would say you do not have enough air volume to push it out both drains. I have the same set-up.

We also have a tan one. I think they fade slower than the darker greens and blues. The darker covers also look dirtier, but it is the same amount of dirt on all of them :)

SR Smith and most other companies changed many of the manufacturing materials on diving boards, basketball hoops and other accessories because of salt water pools. There is a difference in corrosion, but as you pointed out, all chlorine pools have salt concentrations. I would seal the brick.

We ran our two light in their own conduit back to the j-box. For ease of future replacement run them separate.

Is it possible they didn't cut out for the 2nd drain? I would try and contact the pool builder.

Make sure to use an anti-seize lubricant when you install the new hardware.

Cut them off from below with either angle grinder or reciprocating saw. Hacksaw by hand would work, but not the first choice.

Is there fabric laying in the deck box from the holes? Are they ragged like they are being chewed? Is it possible that bleach was spilled?

Double check to make sure the winter plugs have been removed from the bottom of the skimmers.

Do you have any leakage from your backwash line? I would make sure your valve on your sand filter is in good shape.

Out of curiosity, how many years did your cover last? Have you always used it as a winter cover?

Here are a few photos that are not very good. but should convey the idea. We have an autocover, but do not use it in the winter. Apparently, we do not take many photos of the depressing winterized pool :)

I like the idea of custom cutting/gluing polystyrene foam to fit under the cover. The 2" foam is R10 and will float. The sheets are 4x8 and could be easily glued two layers thick and moved under the cover. With that said, you will be heating a lot of water the entire winter for a relatively...

I use 2x6 lumber around the perimeter of our pool and screw a regular heavy duty tarp to the framework. No snow or rain water enters the pool, and I use a cover pump in the spring to remove water. All the leaves stay on the tarp. It takes a few people to remove the tarp in the spring, but it...

Good advice given earlier. You need a decent test kit to know where your pool is at. If you use that much powdered shock your CYA is likely much higher than 40, and your required chlorine levels would be much higher.

We have an 8' SR Smith with the springs. We are very happy with the bounce and height...

In areas with potential for frost heave, a vinyl liner pool with no water line tiles to get damaged can be a better choice. Also, the build timeline for a vinyl liner pool is quite a bit shorter and likely cheaper. In the midwest, there is not a lot of local talent for gunite.

Curious. How long were you gone, and was the water perfect prior to leaving?

They can't fix the liner until the water level is lower. Communicate your concern about wanting to use the pool and needing the schedule water to be delivered, and see if they can agree to be out the same day. The repair should be quick.

You can find Kreepy Krauley suction side cleaners on Craigslist for <$50.

You would not see the bonding wire if it was installed properly during installation. Check continuity as mentioned earlier from the legs back to the equipment pad bonding. Hopefully you will be pleasantly surprised that it is bonded.

Out of curiosity, what levels of CYA do you try and maintain in the Texas sun? Your earlier chlorine level of 4 would indicate a CYA in the 20-30 range, but I would think yours would be higher running pucks. If your CYA/chlorine relationship is correct you should not be battling algae.

If you do not want to do the fiberglass work, any marina that works on boats will be able to do it for you.