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That's pretty weird. Can you provide the source of this info? You describe classic bad capacitor behavior. If the rest of the motor is okay, hard to see why replacing the cap is wrong. It will cost ~$10. As others said, if you remove the "bump" cover and take a picture we can help you find the...

/dev/ttyUSB0 is the I/O pseudofile for the USB adapter that (apparently) AqualinkD is trying to use. This error generally means the pseudofile is used for (i.e. locked by) something else. E.g. some versions of Ubuntu dedicate this channel to Braille readers. If you are running Ubuntu, you can...

Theoretically, yes. Would I rely on that? No. Disconnecting at the junction box is a 10-minute job a most. Again, I'm just a pool owner. I hope one of the experts will chime in.

Sigh... You should talk to a Pentair expert, but it looks like the updated version of this light is 602188, and I'm seeing prices over $1000. You might find a pool supply place with old stock. A couple of notes: 1) Your light is actually 120 vac, not 12. There's no external transformer for...

Many supposedly "hand tight" connections like this on my pool led me to buy a very big channel lock pliers. At max it handles about 4 1/2 inches. It needs to be used VERY gently - you can easily crush stuff, so choke up on the handles. But it's loosened everything I've run into so far including...

Great. Funny you mention worms. I end up netting a few dozen every time we have a hard rain. Robot gets them eventually, if I don't. Kind of gross. The odd thing is I've never seen one traversing the coping even though - out of curiosity - I've gone out in the rain a few times to look. Magic...

No personal experience here (we never close), but I've read it's risky for the robot to work in a pool with lots of debris on the bottom. It's not designed to deal with that. But if you're confident the cover prevented a very dirty bottom, good to go... If in doubt, you can scrape the bottom...

Yup! Mine looks just like this. You can just about see the 44 mark around the side. (Can't find a better picture, and I'm not near my kit.)

Yeah. Iiuc, cold water running through the heat exchanger causes water in the exhaust gases (when you burn just about anything, water is created) to condense inside the heater, and it's very acidic. So it eats up the exchanger (although I've seen info recently that some Hayward heaters manage...

My experience is limited to one system, but yours looks like it's producing fine. So another +1 added to those above. When cell performance tapers off due to age or scaling, you'll generally see 120 and/or 121 error codes at first, then others as things get really bad. So I vote for the...

My guess is it's a matter of controlling expectations. A long time ago I found a document that gave the AquaPure cell life as 8000 hours. (Edit: Found!! It's actually in the Discount Pool Supply "Complete Specs" tab.) This is 333 days running 24x7 at 100%. They advertise the 1400 as good for...

Oh, man... Yuck. I was out doing daily ritual. Tested and left all my stuff on the cook bar while I skimmed the spring pollen for about 20 minutes. When I came back to pick up the testing stuff, it was all there except the stir bar. Squirrels were jumping around as usual. I guess it was...

Yeah I actually started with a zip tie and then a shoelace. But both need 2 hands. With this I can hold everything in place with one and slip the tool on with the other. I'm not very coordinated... :p

I find it clumsy to deal with Pentair CCP filter band: hold everything in position while trying to assemble the 2 washers and spring to get things together. Or when taking things apart have everything go SPROING with parts flying. So here's my idea to make pool life a bit easier. Just a...

I know you said the heater is plugged for 120V. Great. But then you say both power feeds are hot. How are you measuring this? A 120V supply will have one hot and one neutral line, that somewhere upstream is joined to ground. Measuring 120V on the heater neutral line could mean the heater is...

I think Marty's referring to an EC prefix before the Pentair model number as here. It would be worth a call to the vendor you selected to ask about the warranty you'd be getting.

Hello neighbor! I'm sure the experts (I'm not one) will love advising you on this. Tl;Dr is likely be 0) get rid of the tab feeder 1) biggest VSP you can afford 2) biggest cartridge filter you can afford 3) biggest Circupool SWCG you can afford unless there's fancy automation; then match the...

Hi! Welcome! I think you'll need to post a picture and add more explanation of this item. Also, note how most folks list their equipment in the signature block. This allows quicker, better help from the experts. If you plan to be here more than once, it's a good idea.

Yahoo! SWCG had zero scale and is dialed in at 12% with water at 63F for FC=8. Jumped in ... well ... eased in with the fine net to skim a good wad of yew pollen off the top. Wife and I have been taking near-daily dips since late March. Brisk. Next up, spring filter cleaning.

Fwiw, if you ever run out of DPD before end-of-year, you can plus-up with this, which includes the spoon. (How do I know this? I stupidly left my stuff outside for 2 weeks of summer heat while on vacation. 😥)

I'm sure you know this, but the cord provides (or should provide) a dead short between the outer two terminals/sets of plates. So 1/2 production would be explained by a break in the path to one of those. Otoh, since you replaced both cell and cord, that seems very unlikely. Sounds like it's...

See https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Jandy_AquaPure_SWG#Salinity_Recalibration_procedure At the end there are links to a couple of troubleshooting guides used to train repair folks. Basically anything that can interfere with current flow through the cell is suspect. Some...

The mains breaker wouldn't. I meant a tiny fuse or breaker or fuse on the board itself. Looking at a pictures of main boards on line, it does look like there might be a fuse. Hard to tell for sure.

Note that most heaters warn that continuous operation at low temps (for mine it's 68F) causes corrosive condensation and voids the warranty. I find tabs are very handy for this situation, since CYA is often low early in the year anyway, and they keep pH down. A couple in a floater last nearly...

I looked at the manual for your system, and it's not mentioned, but many experienced folks here say turn the cell off when adding salt - especially if you have main drains. Wait for 24 hours before turning on. My Jandy manual says this clearly. Until the salt is well-mixed, there can be chunks...

I hope @HermanTX 's fix works. If not, suspect a bad part. It's very common for random clone boards purchased to be reported here as various kinds of bad. OEM parts are pricey, but I keep finding them worthwhile in the long run.

Haha. My wife and I take a daily dip when it's 53F or higher. Here in NC, that's roughly 1 April through 1 December. Yeah. It can be pretty brisk. Gotta feel yourself living :cool: . Currently 63. Toasty.