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Makes sense.

Not often enough... Maybe with these warmer temps and rain it finally caught up to me! That would be much better than replacing the cell.

Definitely. But why shut down the swg? Won't it just keep producing chlorine well I supplement with liquid chlorine?

K K2006 My chlorine is hot right now because I've been adding bleach to control the algae while I troubleshoot the chlorine generator.

I usually run it at 40% with the pool pump running for 6 to 8 hours. I turned it up to 100% due to the pool turning green and my chlorine dropping out. CYA is 40

Yes I switched the settings back to T-15. Thanks for checking the numbers. At least that eliminates a little bit of mystery for me.

Testing with a tailor kit. And then I'm getting the numbers off the Hayward chlorine generator by just going through the menus. The pool begin to turn green... But honestly I think it's producing chlorine again... Thanks for checking out the numbers for me!

My chlorine took a big dive yesterday... Determined that the salt cell is probably going bad.. dumped a gallon of liquid chlorine in the pool. My salt reading was reading at 3600.. I switched my unit to t-9 overnight to see if it would start producing again. Woke up and it said 5000 as my salt...

We've had a lot of rain! I use a Taylor kit.

The actual salt reading is 2400

Auto 2800 84 26.6 4.68 100p -3200 Off 2900 84 31.6 0.00 100p -0 Back to Auto 3500 84 26 5.85 100p -4100

Done! I remember doing this in the past. What is the reason?

Here are my new numbers... Do you see anything of note? Off 3000 (after I reconfigured it) 80 32.1 0.00 100p -0 Off to auto 3000 81 26.5 5.32 100p -2400

So here's a picture of the guts of my SWG... It does have a thermistor but it looked to be in good shape. When I was digging into it I remembered I had an old salt cell and decided to hook it up... The old one is actually producing chlorine again... I'm not sure how long so the culprit like you...

Do you know why the salt is reading as zero?

salt reading is 3,000 I use the Taylor kit.

Move the switch from Auto to off here are my readings: 0 82 31.7 0.00 100p -0 Moving the switch back to Auto: 0 83 31.1 0.08 100p -0 Moving the switch off for one minute and then back to Auto: 0 84 30.8 0.18 99p -0

I love that you know more about my pool than I do! I'll check the voltage asap!

Sorry, so the salt cell is only a couple of years old. But it was from the guy in Florida who rebuilds them. First one I got I had issues. He sent me the current one I'm using. Here is a picture of the SWG... Ill grab some info off my salt cell asap. (When I get home)

Not sure. I bought the house in 2020 and it was our installed.

Tested salt with the Taylor kit reading at 3,000. Here's the readings that my Hayward aqua right is giving me. 0 87 31.3 0.00 100p -0 AL -0 r 1.59 t-15 I read that you can replace the Aqua-Rite Thermistor AS 32 2R025. After watching some videos it looks a little complicated with soldering...

I'm troubleshooting air in my pump skimmer basket... I have a quick question. When I put a water hose in the strainer basket on my pump and let it run it never overflows. Is this typical? I was priming my pump and letting the water trickle in and it never feels up... I let it go for about 20...

Okay, I'll double check everything that might have an o-ring.

It's a Hayward Northstar self-priming pump... I checked the gasket on the pump lid and lubed it.

I noticed this last year when it got cold but my pump would begin gurgling as if water is moving out of it when the pump turns off. And then once it warmed up i didn't seem to have this problem... Could just be a coincidence. Anything I should check?

Super helpful as always!

Pump is leaking where the green circle is. The zoomed in picture with the yellow circle I believe it's coming from that area. Is that something I can just tighten down?