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Success! I added a terminal block to make any future replacement easier. Spare is on the bottom-left for easy access. Thank you @JamesW and @ajw22 Yes- the water is currently 80. Welcome to Miami.

Thanks - parts ordered. Will report on results.

Thermistor measures ~15VDC on the near size against R15 and ~22VDC on the far side against R15.

My Blue Essence salt system is not working correctly. When I power on the system, Here are the readings: 0 Average Salt Level (Default LCD reading) 78 temp 15.2 cell voltage 0 cell amperage 53 P output % -0 instant salt AL-0 program code 1.55 circuit board revision t-15 cell size Actual salt...

You may want to give the guys at saltsolutions.com a call. I just had them upgrade /flash my board from v1.40 up to v1.55. I now have a t15 cell in place of a worn out t5 cell. I'm planning on doing a write up once the system has been running for a while longer.

I understand what you're saying re:Borates. That's why I put them in (plus the feel, which we *think* is better) Interesting - I hadn't considered changing CH to compensate... If I understand you correctly, by raising the CH I should be essentially buying myself a window where I can adjust...

Here are my latest numbers: FC = 5 PH = 7.2 TA = 50 Ch = 280 CYA = 20 Salt = 3200 Borate = 50 Temp = 72 and rising Historically I've tried to keep my TA to the low side as I was seeing PH rise due to running the liquidator. This weekend I liquidated the liquidator and replaced it with a salt...

I'm trying to find info on a SWG called "Blue Essence". They list on eBay for $599 (20K Cell) and appear to be OEM Goldline.

I purchased the GoldLine AquaSolar system with the time controller (AQ-SOL-LV-TC) for $259.95 from these guys: Pool Supply Pros I was a bit nervous when I placed the order because the pricing was so low. However, I did spend the time up-front to research the company and look for complaint...

You're absolutely right - the original test is much easier to read now.

For us - 84 feels cool, 85 is slightly warm and 86 is about the max. Miami, FL

Just to add a little fuel to the fire... Last week I purchased a Taylor 9058 comparator and I'm really pleased with the results. I have a TF-100 test kit but I've had a very difficult time reading PH. With the 9058 it's MUCH easier. I started by using 10 drops of R-0004 just to get a more...

I found a copy of the post in the cache of my RSS reader. I have no idea if it's legit or not: http://www.troublefreepool.com/viewtopic.php?p=41603#41603

First obvious step would be to set down course objectives and a course outline. Here are some really rough (brain dump) thoughts based on my extensive (90 day) experience with BBB). At this point I'm not really sure how many sessions are practical and/or are needed, but it would be nice to...

I'm watching it now - 9AM Saturday Eastern

I've successfully gone through the process of lowering my TA from 110 down to 80. Once I was done I waited a week and saw that the pH was up by about .2 so I added just over a cup of 31.45% acid for my 18,000 gallon in-ground. I am quite pleased in the reduction in acid usage. Now I'm...

Essentially I did what Dave described. First I used poolcalculator.com to determine the amount of acid needed to drop the pH from 7.5 to 7.0. I then went to the bottom of the calculator to look at the 'Effects of adding chemicals' and entered the acid amounts so that I could get a good idea...

I'm currently working to get my TA down to 80 to fight a gradual creep in PH. As I get closer to my target number I'm trying to be as accurate as possible with my measurements. Initially as I add drops of R0009 to the solution I'll see a slight tinge of red which disappears after mixing. As...

Not quite. If your pool had 20,000 gallons of water in it with a CYA of 200 then you could get the CYA down to 100 but you would have to add an ADDITIONAL 20,000 gallons of water (basically dilute the CYA in half). Probably you don't have that much fill room so draining is the next best...

Welcome to TFP. Another Knoxville native here - just been hanging out in Miami for the last 20 years.

It's quite easy to install. You're going to drill a hole in the PVC just before your pump and another hole in the return after your filter. For both of these holes I looked for an area of pipe that would be easy to replace if for some reason I decided to uninstall later. Then you install a...

Waste, Give this link a try... TFP Membership

IMO, the above should be a stickie. Haven't seen it described in this way anywhere else...

I've had my liquidator for about three weeks now and every time I walk past it I get the itch to work on some improvements. With a simple swap and an extention to the drop tube and I could have my own 32 gallon Liquidator HD. I would really like to have more space between the inlet opening...

ok - I'm relatively new to TFP, but I *think* I can see part of the problem. Is that a floater with trichlor pucks in the image? Please post your numbers so we can look at your CYA.