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I meant I'd get the wiggle room by using some flex PVC.

The top one was lefty/righty, the bottom one was uppy/downy. That's why I was having a hard time getting them both to be happy at the same time. Seems like shims would be a quick fix, would having plumbing with some wiggle room be a more robust fix?

Yeah I had a hard time last year when I opened the pool too, but was able to make it work. No such luck this year. I ended up getting a replacement o-ring for the top connection which was the same diameter but a larger gauge. I also repositioned it slightly so the lower pipe lined up better...

I don't think it's a simple matter of shifting the equipment, it looks like there's a slight angle so I'd need to raise the front of the heater just a hair. I feel like the right solution would be some plumbing adjustments so that there's a little more give somewhere in the piping so it doesn't...

The o-ring is there, you can see it in the 2nd picture, it just doesn't have enough girth to fill the gap...

I went to open up the pool today, and I'm having some major leaking from the pipes in/out of the heater. I'm guessing something settled and now the connections aren't lining up just right. There's really not much wiggle room on either side. For the pipes to the pool there's very little pipe...

Ok, general take-away is that this is not an unexpected level of performance. Just wanted to make sure nothing was wrong. It makes me doubt the benefit of running it at night, but I'm guessing that for a heat pump, it's most efficient to set it to a temperature and just let it sit there and...

I do, and I have it running faster at night. Still, I think that slower vs fast is largely a wash; either you have more water coming out at a less warm temperature, or less water coming at a higher temp.

Perhaps I should consider that without the heat running, I lose about 3 degrees overnight. So in that case the heat pump really gained me 4.5 deg in 9 hours. Still well short of the rated "MPG" however. Makes me wonder if it's even worth running it at night, even with electricity being a third...

Yes, I should have mentioned I have the solar cover on.

I have an aquacal tropical t115 and a 22,000 gallon pool. Last night the pool was 73.9 deg when I turned the heat pump on at 10pm. This morning at 7 am the temp has only risen to 75.4 deg, so that's 1.5 deg in 9 hours. The air temp last night got down to 52 deg. Baes on the spreadsheet from...

Mission accomplished! I was able to tap into the 28VAC on the control board to power the shelly uni. I added the temperature probe to a tee fitting I put in-line for the pipe between my filter and the pump. And then I wired the dry contact switch of the Shelly onto the external 2-wire control...

I took another look in the control panel. Turns out that the 2 pin header for a 3 wire high pressure switch (which is not connected to anything) has 22 vdc on it, so I can power the shelly that way without cutting wires. I also disconnected the existing temp sensor and measured 3 vdc so maybe...

FYI powering the shelly on a smart outlet seems to be redundant. The Shelly has the smarts in it so it would provide all the automation you might need. Thanks. I guess I'd need to find a 3 way mating connector to that molex to be helpful so that probably won't work. I'll probably just use a...

I took a look at the control panel of the heat pump, and now I'm really excited! The wiring diagram was on the back of the panel, see below. Turns out there is 24VAC available from the board, so I could tap into those wires to power the Shelly Uni. In addition, I found where the existing...

I wonder if there 12-36 VDC or VAC available somewhere in the heat pump to power a device like this? Shelly Uni With that, I could directly connect a DS18B20 temp sensor, and hook the outputs to the firemans switch on the heat pump. Then I could connect via my wifi and control through the...

@Rancho Cost-a-Lotta so if I were to get a temp sensor like the Sonoff one, and wired it up to my heat pump using the dry contacts as a 2 wire controller like this: 2-wire setup, does that mean that the heat pump would essentially run when the two pins are shorted, and ignore the internal controls?

I take it back, it'll be super trivial to cut a tee into the pipe from the filter into the heat pump, I just didn't think of putting it there.

I see. I had been thinking about trying to use the RS485 connection on the heat pump to control the set point and read the water temp. But what you're suggesting is instead to add my own water temp sensor, and hook that to a wifi sensor which would use the fireman switch to simply turn on/off...

I recently was successful in automating my pool lights by wiring in a Shelly smart relay so that it turns on at sunset and off when I set it, or I can manually control with my phone. Now I've got the automation bug and want to see what other kind of automation I could do with something like...

I don't think it's the igniter, for the 20 seconds or so that it runs the exhaust definitely gets hot. I'm not sure how to check the inlet gas pressure, but the tank was just filled up a few days ago so I'm sure we're not low on propane

I also want to add that I see none of the error LEDs on the backside of the control panel lit at any point.